Great Guild Hall, Tallinn, Estonia

The Great Guild Hall was one of the most distinguished public buildings of medieval Tallinn and with a 21st century restoration under its belt, it is still quite distinguished today. The Gothic-style building, completed in 1410, was built on what was then the main street, and near the Town Hall. It was commissioned by the Great Guild, the association of Hanseatic merchants. Over the centuries a variety of events have been held in the Great Guild Hall, ranging from grand parties and weddings to church services and court proceedings. In the Middle Ages the cellar was used for storing wine, and in the 19th and 20th centuries the popular wine cellar known as Das Süsse Loch ("Sweet Hole") operated there. During the 19th century the building, then known as the Stock Exchange, was used not only for business but also as a lively arts venue. The Great Guild Hall has housed the Estonian History Museum since 1952. We went in because it is on the Tallinn card and therefore free once you have paid a flat fee. There are a number of exhibits on view, but this wall of video exhibits telling the history of Estonia, a horrific history of invasion and domination byt foreign powers, with some brief interludes of independence, is enchantingly told in a number of different ways, and so well worth the half hour it takes to watch them through a time or two.

The Promise by Damon Galgut

This was nominated for the Booker Prize in 2021, which is how I came to read it--as is almost always the case, no matter how many of the long listed books I read before the final winner is announced, and this past year it was 11 of the total 13, I have almost never ever read the winner pre-announcement. This book is exceptionally well written, so subtle and sly and occasionally magical that it makes the unpalatable truths about post-colonial South Africa easier to examine. The material and in some ways the approach to writing remind me of J.M. Coetzee's work in general and Disgrace in particular. The book chronicles the unraveling of apartheid as seen through the eyes of a bigoted white family. the decline of a white family during South Africa’s transition out of apartheid. It begins in 1986, with the death of Rachel, a 40-year-old Jewish mother of three on a smallholding outside Pretoria. The promise of the title is that her Afrikaner husband, Manie, would give their black maid, Salome, the deeds to the house she occupied and the youngest daughter Amor heard it. Now that Rachel is dead, Manie has apparently forgotten and doesn’t care to be reminded. The anger and tension between black South Africans and white colonizers pulses through the story and is all to relevant today.

Restaurant Rataskaevu 16, Tallinn, Estonia

There are many things that reliably go right when we are on vacation, but an area that we often fall short on is the meal on the first night. Not so in Tallinn. We managed to find a small neighborhood grocery store and buy a few things to snack on within a few blocks from our apartment, and then we went to this restaurant, which was one of a handful that were recommended by the apartment managers. It was a wonderful introduction to the trip, and a very enjoyable meal.

In addition to trying a local beer, a local spirit, and a digestif made by an aging actress who performed in a theater down the street in her heyday, we had two things that are hallmarks of the cuisine of the region--a brown bread filled with seeds, and a fish soup. These dishes were delicious, traditional, and at the same time updated and fresh. The western European and Scandanavian sensibility is very appealing, and this was the end of a great first day.

Old Town, Tallin, Estonia

Tallinn has managed to wholly preserve its structure of medieval and Hanseatic origin against all the odds. Estonia, like it's Baltic neighbors, has been home. Due to its exceptionally intact 13th century city plan, the Old Town was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, joining the ranks of the world’s most recognised landmarks. Here you'll find original cobblestone streets dotted with medieval churches and grandiose merchant houses, barns and warehouses many of which date back to the Middle Ages. It is utterly charming, and well worth a few days exploring.

A fortified settlement existed in Tallinn from the late 1st millennium BC until the 10th–11th century AD, and there was a town on the site in the 12th century. In 1219 it was captured by the Danes, who built a new fortress on Toompea hill. Trade flourished, especially after Tallinn joined the Hanseatic League in 1285 (more on this later). In 1346 it was sold to the Teutonic Knights, and on the dissolution of the order in 1561 it passed to Sweden. Peter I of Russia captured Tallinn in 1710, and it remained a Russian city until it became the capital of independent Estonia from 1918 to 1940. Estonia was annexed to the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics from 1940 to 1991. After the Supreme Soviet of Estonia declared independence in 1991, Tallinn became the capital of the newly independent state. With the exception of an ugly demonstration in front of the Russian Embassy in the wake of their invasion of the sovereign territory of Ukraine, it is an otherwise peaceful city that hides it troubled past beautifully.

One Summer: America 1927 by Bill Bryson

I picked this book up at a free library in the Jackson Hole Airport--which has an exceptionally good and varied collection of donated books usually. This is a book that only someone like Bill Bryson would write--it is long on details about the summer of 1927 and very light on connecting the dots about these events or drawing much in the way of conclusions about them, what they meant then and why they might matter to us now. It is more like a collection of unconnected things that happened all at the same time, and the author runs through them and makes his usual comments about them (slightly jocular, slightly inappropriate, and certainly more in the comic vein than an academic tone). All of this sounds pretty negative, but overall I enjoyed reading the book, which chronicles people and events that are well known, like Lindberg crossing the Atlantic and Babe Ruth hitting 60 home runs, but lesser known things as well. If you liked Horrible Histories as a kid, this will appeal.

Dog (2022)

I have worked with vertans of foreign wars for over 30 years, including veterans of the 20 year wars in Afghanistan and Iraq. This modern war is particularly challenging in that a lower percentage of Americans fought in the war than in any other major war before it. Just 2% of the US population did a tour of duty abroad. What that left these veterans with was the longest time in a combat theater than at any time since the Revoluitionary War. Veterans did multiple tours of combat over the two decades and suffered both physical and mental trauma that can be improved but often doesn't go away. Briggs (ably played by Channing Tatum) is a guy who has suffered injuries from his service as an Army Ranger have taken everything he had and everything he needed. We don;t know what he was like before, but he was an elite soldier, which takes concentration, smarts, good instincts, strengh and courage. All of this disscourages introspection, which leaves Briggs ill equipped to improve. Despite his doctor’s warnings that he has some permanent impairment, he's determined to get back into the Rangers. Why? Because military service gives him structure, purpose, fellowship, and enough adrenaline to not have to think about the many things he doesn't want to think about, including how much more there is still to lose. The film focuses on him taking another wounded veteran, a dog, to the dog handler's funeral. He has died by suicide, which is not explored in the film, but is another stark reality that Briggs and other actual veterans face a higher risk of as well.

The Maid by Nita Prose

This is a very enjoyable and slightly off kilter debut crime novel. I don't usually write much about this genre, but I read quite a bit of it, and I am making an exception for this book. Unfortunately for Molly, her attention to detail when it comes to cleanliness doesn’t extend to understanding social cues or knowing how to navigate the complex waters of conversations or relationships. Molly the Maid is seen as a slightly off by her co-workers, who don’t appreciate or comprehend her boundless desire to do her best at her job or her probably Asperger's symptoms. She was protected by her grandmother, who left her lots of clues as to how to handle different situations and people, but she is easily duped by conniving people. When she enters the penthouse suite at the Regency Grand one afternoon to return it to perfection, she finds very much the opposite: The most prized hotel guest, Mr. Black, is collapsed dead in his bed, murdered. Sadly, because of a series of unfortunate events that I won’t detail here because they’re incredibly amusing to uncover as a reader, Molly finds herself the prime suspect in his killing and the center of a swirling scandal threatening not only the reputation of the hotel she adores but also her own livelihood. It all gets sorted out in the end, and is a light and enjoyable read.

Soft Pretzels

Let me start off by saying that if you are looking for a cookbook to send off with a kid to college, or give to someone who is just starting to learn to bake, you should consider Shauna Severs Midwest Made. Everything that we have made from the cookbook has turned out well, and been less troublesome to make that you would suspect from the way it looks. For the dough 1 cup milk 2 tablespoons white sugar 2 tablespoons instant dry yeast 2 tablespoons butter softened 2 1/4 cups all purpose flour plus more for kneading 1/2 teaspoon salt Making the pretzels 1 cup Boiling water 1/2 tablespoon Baking soda 2 tablespoons Coarse salt 2 tablespoons Melted butter Warm the milk up to about 110 F. Sprinkle the sugar and the active dry yeast.Be careful not to warm the milk so hot, so it dos not kill your yeast. Let it sit for about 10 min, until it gets a bit foamy. After 10 min, add in the salt, the softened butter, also add half of the flour. Mix with a wooden spoon till the mix comes together, add the remaining flour, stir again until it comes together. Use your fingers to scrape down the sides of your bowl, so you can incorporate everything. Sprinkle some flour on your working surface, start knitting. Knit for about 1-2 min. You don;t want to overwork it. You want to knit it to develop a little bit of the gluten. After you knit it, get a large bowl, put some vegetable oil. Swirl the dough around, put in the bowl. Cover it with a moist towel, so the dough doesn't dry out. Cover and let it rise for 1 hour. Until it is doubled. While the dough is rising, make the baking soda solution with 1 cup of nearly boiling water, add the baking soda. Whisk it together, until the baking soda is dissolved. This is what is going to give your pretzel the signature flavor, as well as texture. Once this is mix, set off to the side. Take your doubled in size dough out of your bowl, put it on your working surface9 no flouring). Cut your dough into 6 equal pieces. Does not have to be exact-just eye bowl it. Work with one of the pieces at a time. Take one piece of the dough and using your fingertips only, roll it out to about a 30 inch long. Make sure is evenly and consistently diameter from one end to the other. Make like a horse shoes shape with the two end pointing towards you. Take those two end put one over the other, then cross over again, then take your two ends and folded up and pinch it onto the end. You have created your classic pretzel shape. Keep a photo in front of you or watch a YouTube video--or both--to help with this part. Take your pretzel and gently lay it down to your baking soda solution. You want to leave in there for 5-10 sec, and carefully lift and place it on cooking sheet, Heavily grease your pan, because this will stick. While pretzels are still wet, take your salt and sprinkle that salt on top. Preheat your oven to 450F-Bake them 10-13 min, untill nicely golden brown. Once they are brown, brush them with melted butter.

Cook Real Hawai'i by Sheldon Simeon

I have relatively recently been on a kick where I actually read the cookbook cover to cover before I actually make anything, which has been both educational and fun. This is no exception, unless you know a lot about Hawaii both culturally and regional differences. The author grew up on the big island, went to culinary school on Oahu, and has his restaurants on Maui. This is not 'typical' Hawaiian food but rather the local Hawai‘i food that the author feeds his ohana, his family and neighbors. The recipes are uncomplicated and flavor-forward and demonstrate the many cultures that have come to create the cuisine of his beloved home: the native Hawaiian traditions, Japanese influences, Chinese cooking techniques, and dynamic Korean, Portuguese, and Filipino flavors that are closest to his heart. The majority of the recipes are different from what most of us are used to eat daily, there's a solid chance you have most of the stuff you need already on hand. Most ingredients can be found in a well-stocked grocery store, with just a few items requiring a trip to your nearest Asian market. Besides this, all the recipes are relatively easy to do and can be done in just a few steps. And never fear, there is Spam, macaroni salad, and condensed cream of mushroom soup contained within.

The Mosquito

One cocktail hurdle that I am deftly leaping over these days is appreciating (at least a little bit) the bitter/sweet balanced drink. This is one such example, which also has spicy and smoky notes. 1 oz Mezcal (Luminar) 1 oz Campari, 1 oz Ginger Syrup 1 oz Lemon Juice. Shake & Strain

The King At The Edge Of The World by Arthur Phillips

I think it is important to realize that this is a book that is wry rather than funny, and if you miss that, it might seem just a tad on the dry side, which it is not. This is a book that takes a subject over which people argue, and even kill each other, and makes it seem just a little bit absurd. Here is the setting. It is 1600 and England has enjoyed a long period of domestic respite from sectarian turmoil. Queen Elizabeth has deftly managed to keep the country Protestant and to repel the attacks of Roman Catholics. However, she is about to die, and she has no heirs, so England risks slipping back into spiritual chaos with all its attendant bloodshed. Unfortunately, to speak or even to think of the queen’s eventual death is an act of treason, which makes planning for a successor somewhat inconvenient. But her counselors have secretly identified the best candidate: the King of Scotland, Elizabeth’s cousin, James VI. The fact that James is obsessed with witches and may be sleeping with a man is troublesome, but not an absolute dealbreaker. What really worries the royal advisers in London is that James may be a covert Catholic — a tool of Rome playing the long game to wrest England back to popish abomination. I recommend this even if you are not much for historically based fiction, as it reflects on the nature of man more than a particular time period.

End of Slavery

June 19, 1865 is the last day of institutional slavery in the United States and a day worth celebrating. The 21st century reckoning with that past is as important to recognize as it is to mark the historical event. White supremacy is an integral part of the history of the United States from the very beginning. All but two US Presidents who were adults prior to the Civil War owned slaves. The White House, the home of the President, the highest office in the land, was built by enslaved people. I know all this, and yet I was still niave enough to think that we had come a long way. That was before I did a deep dive into Balzac's The Human Comedy, where man is stripped down to the basest and most common of desires, and religion is an instrument of the rich and powerful. We are indeed doomed to repeat our mistakes unless we are loud and clear that this is indeed who we were and who we will continue to be unless we do an about face.

The Boy In The Field by Margot Livesey

I really liked this is a quiet, beautifully rendered mystery of a sort, that is peopled with kind, decent characters who are sincerely doing their best for those around them. The warmth it offers is reinforced by its pastoral English sensibilities and all the characters are likeable--something that doesn't seem to be in fashion, but which I enjoy. As in a classical Greek drama, the event around which the book is centered takes place offstage; it is the characters’ reaction to the violence and its effect upon them that propels the narrative. Three siblings find Karel in a field as they are walking home from school. He has been stabbed and while he isn't someone they quite know and he lives, the trauma ripples through the family. Matthew, the eldest, becomes obsessed with finding out what happened and who did it, which sounds unhealthy, but he comes to see things differently as a result. Zoe, the middle child and the one who first spotted Karel, starts to move away from her family and find her independence. Dustin, the youngest, is adopted and he starts to dream about his birth mother and finding her. They all have bumps in their journeys, but come out of it. I was thoroughly captivated from start to finish; the story pulled me in and drew me effortlessly along.

Reading Inspired Quilting

I really enjoyed the latest Louise Erdrich's book, which is set in Minneapolis on the site of the book store she owns, commenting on prejudice, the injustice of policing and justice in America, that black and brown lives matter, the importance of supporting civil rights for all people, and the joy that books and reading can bring to your life.

I also loved the cover art, with a riff on the pin wheel quilt, and the use of simple primary colors, so I went to my fabric collection, and started this quilt to recapitulate it. At this point I am planning to skip the beading, but I love that too.

Covered With Night by Nicole Eustace

This is an in depth examination of what led up to the The Albany Treaty of 1722, also known as the Great Treaty. At 300 years old this year, it is oldest continuously recognized Indigenous treaty in Anglo-American law. It not only is a record of later land cessions and claims, both colonial and under the United States, but also memorialized the previously referenced Indigenous condolence ceremonies, and requested the release of the alleged murderers, recognizing Native American principles of restorative justice embedded in balanced values of pluralism and communalism in which lies the culture clash described in the text. It all started when a Native American man, trading with two Pennsylvania brothers, was murdered, and the overarching efforts on the part of the colonial government were not only to determine possible guilt and punishment of the two murderers, but also to head off a possible war and continue to maintain current trade, land acquisition efforts, and friendly relations between the neighbors. The title refers to the indigenous perception that murder covers the community with darkness at the loss of one of its own and the necessity of replacing that member either with someone from the murderer’s community and/or providing some sort of reparations or compensation for the loss of the deceased’s presence. The narrative about what Native American values and the perception of justice and community are nicely juxtaposed against the narrow and Western views of the colonists

Greek Salad

This is such a simple recipe and yet it is very enjoyable, even before the summer tomato season takes off, and I recommend making it weekly over the summer months. Dressing 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Salad 1/2 small red onion, finely sliced, or to taste 4 medium-size ripe tomatoes (total weight about 500 grams) 500 grams cucumber 1 handful Kalamata olives 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed 1/3 green bell pepper, cut crosswise into 3 circles 150 grams feta cheese 1 teaspoon dried oregano Start by making the dressing, whisking all the ingredients together in a bowl. (If you want to marinate the onion first, add it to the dressing now, letting it soften there for 20 minutes.) Cut the tomatoes into large, thick, wedges, about ¾ inch (2 centimeters) wide. Peel the cucumber and cut it into thick, diagonal slices about ¾ inch (2 centimeters) wide also, then cut these slices in half, so they are roughly the same size as the tomatoes. Place the tomatoes, cucumber, and onion in a large bowl. Add the dressing and toss together well. Scatter the olives and capers over the salad, layer on the slices of green bell pepper, and place a large piece of feta on top. Drizzle the entire salad with a bit more extra-virgin olive oil and finish with the dried oregano. Serve with crusty bread.

One Last Stop by Casey McQuiston

I picked this up because while it is a romance novel, it was also on the New York Times 100 Notable Books from 2021 list, so I thought that I would give it a whirl. I do not read much in the realm of romance novels, and spoiler alert, this book doesn't change that--there is just too much in the way of gratuitous sex mixed with equal parts unrealistic romantic expectations for my taste. I did, however enjoy aspects of this book, which is part science fiction and the romance is a lesbian one with a fair amount of gay culture as a backdrop, all of which are saving graces for me. The characters in the book are likable and the writing is breezy and casual, which I liked. August has moved to New York to transfer to her third college in as many years, and she is adrift and uncertain about just about everything. She has been raised by a single mother who is obsessed with finding her missing brother, who disappeared in 1973, and she has built her relationship with August around this quest. August lands in a good apartment share arrangement, a good part time job in a pancake restaurant, and she meets a woman she is wild about on the subway. I will say no more, except that this was enjoyable overall, and maybe more so if this is your genre.

The Chef Table, The Webster, Iowa City

The Webster is hands down the best restaurant in Iowa City and possibly the best in all of Iowa, so it is a great fortune that it is less than 10 minutes from my house, and that without much in theway of advanced planning, a table can be had there. Now that it is summer, the outdoor patio is also open, so if COVID gets much worse, it is still a safe and delicious dining option.

The thing that I had forgotten about until I went there recently was that they do a limited number of Chef's Table dinners, seating up to four guests and serving small portions of mutliple options from the menu. I did this once and only once, and it was spectacular.

My only additional recommendation beyond that this is a safe place for trying things you don't think you will like is that if you are so inclined, the wine pairings are as a rule exceptional.

Memphis by Tara Stringfellow

It’s a story that moves back and forth across the decades from World War II to the war in Afghanistan and chronicles the struggles of three generations of resilient black women. I read reviews of this book that used the words hopeful, and while on the one hand, the multigenerational family here does survive, but there is also pervasive discrimination throughout each generation, that is based solely on the color of skin and not ability, education, or contribution to the community. It is set in Memphis, which is where the author is also from. Memphis has played a complicated role in America’s racial history. In the mid-19th century, thousands of enslaved Black people were bought and sold at the market owned by Nathan Bedford Forrest, who later became a Confederate general and then the first Grand Wizard of the Ku Klux Klan. In the mid-20th century, Memphis was so central to the fight for civil rights that Martin Luther King Jr. and it is also where he was assassinated at the Lorraine Motel. The National Civil Rights Museum was built on the site of the motel, and the path through the museum ends up on the balcony where he died. This book is as complicated at the city it is set in, and well worth reading.

Rhubarb Tart

We have had an undredictable, largely grey and wet spring. One of the few things that emerged on time was rhubarb, and so not having yet settled on my go to rhubarb recipes, we are still looking. My spouse assembled this recipe, which as another baker pointed out, is actually 5 recipes that are then assembled. Thomas Keller is not a guy who cuts corners, and Bouchon is a gorgeous cookbook, but you whould definitely not tackle this if you have a tight time line from start to completion. Cured Rhubarb 15 young rhubarb stalks (about 2 lbs) 1/2 C (100 grams) superfine granulated sugar 1/4 C + 2 TBS (120 grams) grenadine (you can find grenadine in with the mixers in the adult beverages section of the market) Trim the rhubarb so that it will fit into a 9X13 inch baking dish lengthwise. Using a paring knife, pull-off the strings and any tough peel running the length of the rhubarb. Arrange the rhubarb in the baking dish. Sprinkle with sugar and drizzle with grenadine. Cover in plastic wrap and let cure for 24 hours, turning the stalks every 8 hours or so. When ready to use, allow to drain on paper towels first. Pate Sucree note: this makes enough for two tart shells, you will only need one. Wrap the second tightly in plastic and freeze for up to two months. 2 2/3 C (375 grams) all purpose flour 1/4 C + 3 TBS (46 grams) confectioner’s sugar PLUS 3/4 C + 1 TBS (94 grams) confectioner’s sugar 1/4 C plus 3 TBS almond meal/flour 8 oz (225 grams) unsalted butter at room temp. 1/2 vanilla bean split down the middle 1 extra large egg (56 grams) In a medium bowl sift in the flour plus the first 46 grams of confectioner’s sugar. Sift-in the almond flour, breaking up any lumps in the sieve. Whisk to combine and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (or a hand mixer), add butter and cream on medium until it has the consistency of mayonnaise. Sift in the remaining confectioner’s sugar and mix on medium low until the mixture if fluffy (about 60 seconds). Scrape down the sides of the bowl and scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the mixture. Mix on low for 30 seconds to distribute evenly. Add dry ingredients in two additions, mixing for 15-30 seconds after each and until just combined. Scrape down the bowl to incorporate any ingredients that have settled on the bottom of the bowl. Add the eggs and mix on low for 15-30 seconds. Transfer the dough to a work surface. Using the heel of your hand, smear the dough and work it together. Divide the dough in half and form each into a 4X6 inch rectangle about 3/4 inches thick. Wrap each in plastic wrap and chill until firm (about 2 hours but as always, preferably overnight). Brown Butter Filling 1/2 C + 3 TBS (75 grams) almond flour/meal 1/2 C + 2 tsp all purpose flour 2 eggs (150 grams) 1 C + 1 TBS (210 grams) superfine granulated sugar 1/4 C + 1 TBS (75 grams) whole milk 1/4 C + 1 TBS (75 grams) heavy cream 3/4 C + 1 TBS (165 grams) brown butter Whisk together the almond and all-purpose flours, set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the eggs and sugar and mix on medium for about 2 minutes. Reduce mixer to low, slowly add the milk and cream. Add the dry ingredients and mix on low for a few seconds until combined. With the mixer running, slowly add the brown butter and mix to combine. Transfer to a pastry bag. Almond Streusel Topping 3/4 C + 2 TBS (120 grams) all purpose flour 1 C + 1 TBS (120 grams) almond flour 1/2 C + 2 TBS (120 grams) granualted sugar 1/4 tsp kosher salt 4.2 ounces (120 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 inch pieces Combine the all-purpose and almond flours, sugar and salt in a bowl. Whisk to break-up lumps. Add the butter and toss to coat the pieces. Work the mixture with fingertips breaking the butter into pieces no larger than 1/8 inch and combining it with the flour mixture. Transfer the streusel to a covered container or resealable plastic bag. Refrigerate for at least two hours (can be frozen up to 1 month). Preheat oven to 325 degrees Spread the streusel in an even layer on a sheet pan. Bake for about 12 minutes, turning the streusel with a metal spatula every 4 minutes until it is golden brown and dry. Place pan on cooling rock, allow to cool completely. Pour the streusel into a food processor and pulse to the consistency of brown sugar. To Assemble Preheat oven to 350 degrees Pipe enough of the filling into the crust to cover the bottom with a 1/4 inch-thick-layer and spread it evenly with a small offset spatula. Arrange the rhubarb, rounded side-up on top of the filling, running lengthwise in the pan. Pipe the fillings around the stalks, filing in any gaps, then spread any remaining filling over the top of the rhubarb (it may not be completely covered). Bake for 40 minutes, rotate the pan. Reduce the oven temp to 325 degrees and bake for an other 10-15 minutes until the filling is set and golden. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.

The School For Good Mothers by Jessamine Chan

There is a lot going on here in terms of social commentary in the guise of dystopian fiction. It is The Handmaid's Tale meets Rosemary's Baby. Frida has found herself a single mother about the same time she gave birth to Harriet. Her philandering husband left her, and she is just not a natural at parenting. The novel opens with her exhausted and sleep-deprived, leaving Harriet in a bouncy chair to go for a cup of coffee and coming home to find CPS taking her child away because she endangered her child. After two months of in-home surveillance, observation by a social worker, and evaluation by a psychiatrist, Frida is still judged insufficiently trustworthy. To have any chance of reclaiming joint custody of Harriet, she must submit to a one-year residential program in parenting--which has, of course, different standards for mothers than fathers. At orientation, they’re told that mothers who quit or end up speaking badly about the program not only lose all parental rights, they are also entered into a registry equivalent to that used for pedophiles. The fence around the campus is electrified, a sort of parenting prison. The nightmare is complete when the mothers are introduced to the AI robot dolls that will serve as their practice children and will record the women’s every pulse rate, eye movement, grip pressure, and response time, ensuring the scientific accuracy of their evaluations. The goal is complete control of women to become robots themselves. The book, which I read on the eve of women losing countless rights in the United States, touches on so many of the issues associated with misogyny: race, class, culture, age, sexual orientation.

Pomegranate and Sumac Chicken

For the marinade: ▢3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses ▢1 tablespoon store-bought or homemade tomato paste ▢1/2 teaspoon ground allspice ▢2 teaspoons pul biber (Aleppo pepper*) ▢1 teaspoon ground sumac ▢2 fat garlic cloves crushed ▢Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper For the chicken: ▢8 large bone-in chicken thighs or a whole chicken (about 3 lbs | 1.4 kg) cut into 8 pieces ▢3 tablespoons olive oil Make the marinade In a large bowl, combine all the marinade ingredients with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Marinate the chicken Add the chicken to the marinade and, using your hands, massage the chicken until it is evenly coated, then cover and stash in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours. When you're ready to cook, take the chicken out of the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature (this will take about 20 minutes). Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). ☞TESTER TIP: Line your sheet pan with foil for easier clean up. Place the chicken skin side up on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with the olive oil. Roast until the juices from the chicken run clear when it is pierced at the thickest part, and the internal temperature is 165°F (74°C), 30 to 35 minutes.

The Salt Path by Raynor Winn

The author and her long time husband of 32 years, Moth, lose two things in rapid succession. They lose an appeal to overturn a decision that they owed money on their farm, which they could not pay, so they were rendered both homeless and penniless, without a way to support themselves. Almost simultaneously, Moth gets a diagnosis that he has a degenerative disease that will cause him to lose motor function over an unknowable but probably not long period of time. So what do they decide to do? They go walk about, choosing to embark on a six hundred thirty mile hike along the South West Coast Path also known as the Salt Path. This is not a gentle nor a flat walk, and they are tossed about by the weather, their physical limitations, and their severe lack of funds, but this is not a tale of sorrow. It is more about resilience and hope, and the healing aspect of being more with the natural world and less with other people. Overall, The Salt Path is an inspiring, realistic, dramatic, and well-written memoir. Fans of extreme hiking and outdoor enthusiasts will especially enjoy the story, and while it did not make me want to walk this particular path, it did make me want to walk in England again.

Preparing To Travel In The Baltics

It has been months since I have left the country, and I have only done it once since the pandemic began. I chose Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania because not only have I never been there, but I am worried that if I wait it might not happen. I missed going to Syria, and while I have been to Ukraine once, I missed Kyiv too. So learning from past hesitations and present dangers. The Baltic states, the land of medieval towns and a rich history--but one that I know very little about, so for once, I actually am reading the guidebooks in the hopes that I will be better able to appreciate what I see and articulate that upon my return. They have been often occupied over the centuries by their neighbors, but did a fine job of establishing independence when the Soviet Union broke up--and their port access makes them vulnerable and attractive. Now to the guide book: it is not all that helpful in the realm of where should I stay and what should I eat, but there are plenty of options on the internet to get ideas about that. This is good for some details about where to go (we are not great at tours and are much happier overall if we plan our own trips--we might see less, but we are happier, and after all, that is what vacationing should be about--learning and enjoying in equal parts). There is a dearth of published guidebooks for this region, and this one is well worth reading.

Cousin Bette by Honoré de Balzac

This is the seventh book that I have finished in my year of reading classic 19th century French literatire, and my fifth Balzac novel--it is also written at the end of his short but ever so productive life, and a culmination of the level of contempt he has for the rich--men are ruled by their sexuality (and are also easily fooled) and women want to have thier money. This was written in 1846 and is set in mid-19th century Paris, so comtemporaneous to its publication. It tells the story of an unmarried middle-aged woman, cousin Bette, who plots the destruction of her extended family. Bette works with Valérie Marneffe, an unhappily married young lady, to seduce and torment a series of men. The first of these is Baron Hector Hulot, husband to Bette's cousin Adeline. He sacrifices his family's fortune and good name to please Valérie, who leaves him for a tradesman named Crevel. The goings on are hard to keep up with, who is sleeping with whom and why, but in the end most come out okay or persih, largely based on the lack of predictablity in who is in charge, the Royaltists or those who support Nalopeon, and fortunes sway back and forth. The book is part of the Scènes de la vie parisienne section of Balzac's novel sequence La Comédie humaine.

Share Your Vacation House

For me the summer starts this week. It is a little later than in the past, usually I like to take my first big trip of the year in May, when everyone is otherwise occupied with children and school, and the weather is a bit more reliably cooler, but things conspired to delay it this year, and truly, the spring got off to a rocky start, so maybe it all works out in the end. One thing that I have done far more frequently since the pandemic began, but have done to some extent for two decades, is to rent out people's extra houses--the short term rental of a place that has all the components of a home rather than a hotel room is something I have loved. It allows you to be in places for a moment that you could never afford--and wouldn't necessarily want--for a short period, to have all that they have to offer with none of the hassle. We will be doing some of that over the next three months with a variety of people, and I am really looking forward to being away, to relaxing in someone else's space. A year ago we entered the other side of the equation, having a house we rent out, and last winter I got a window into what you can gain as a home owner--we arrived to find that someone had done a winsome snow sculpture across our front lawn! So much fun!

My Year Abroad by Chang-Rae Lee

This is two interwoven stories that will leave you thinking--and maybe a little worried about the twenty somethings that you know. Twenty-year-old Tiller was supposed to be in college on an overseas program, but unbeknownst to his dad, he has spent the last few months on a series of bizarre adventures in Asia. He was at loose ends, not sure what to do or where he was going scholastically, and when he gets noticed by Pong, and pulled into his shady wrong doings, he is helpless to stop himself. It all goes terribly wrong and we find out the exact details of that as the story unfolds, but it is clear fromt he beginning that he is in some sort of hiding. So what does he do? When the story opens he shacks up with a new girlfriend, Val, and her son, who are in a witness protection program and share Tiller’s penchant for hiding in plain sight. Entrenched in her own secrets, Val does not pry into Tiller’s troubles as he attempts to process recent tumultuous events that have left him so rudderless. They are an unlikely pair but over the course of the novel we start to see what they see in each other, and the intricately told story has a satisfying ending.

The Little Devil

Early in the pandemic my spouse was creating craft cocktails at a staggering level. I thought I might never go to a bar again! In truth, I do not have a deep or wide experience in bars, especially those without live music, so that was probably not much of an insight. Now it is a rarer but still enjoyable experience. It features a French liqueur that we made at home, which is something that I love about French cuisine--make use of everything good that life has for you. 1 1⁄2 oz. Ancho Reyes liqueur 1⁄2 oz. mezcal 1⁄2 oz. tequila 3⁄4 oz. cherry liqueur(homemade Guignolet , which he made last summer) 3⁄4 oz. lime juice 1⁄4 oz. agave 1⁄2 oz. simple syrup Shake with ice, strain into rocks glass over one or two large cubes, garnish with Luxardo cherries

Between Two Kingdoms by Suleika Jaouab

The allusion in the title is that there are two kingdoms, the kingdom of the well, where many people Ms. Jaouad's age live, and the kingdom of the sick, which is where we are all headed at one point or another. She was diagnosed with an unusually aggressive form of acute myeloid leukemia, which necessitated her spending the early part of her 20's getting chemotherapy and a bone marrow transplant, interspersed with life-threatening infections and graft versus host disease, which is an inevitable consequence of having someone else's bone marrow fill up your own bones. The replacement is necessary but not without consequences. The author found a voice for herself in the midst of all this misery, sharing her triumphs as well as her woes with a broader audience, first in a blog, then a newspaper column, and then guest appearances on television. Through it all she also found a way to survive, but not how to be grateful for those who sacrificed around her to keep her afloat. It is an excellent read, one with highs and lows, wins and losses, and also her ability to see that there are those worse off than she, which is one of the silver linings that coming out the end of the cancer tunnel alive affords one. This was a bittersweet read for me, as both a survivor of an exceptionally bad cancer as well as the parent of a childhood cancer survivor. I hope that her sharing of her story helps those who come behind her to find their way a bit easier as a result, and I wish her the very best as she continues her journey.

Troglodytes in the Perigord

In addition to the cave paintings in this neck of the woods, there are dozens of sites where man has lived for over 40,000 years. Since the prehistoric times, the Périgord cliffs have sheltered cave dwellings, an impressive natural architecture, sometimes in the state of mere visible vestiges. On the banks of the Vézère River you will discoverauthentic rock shelters occupied by men since prehistoric times and developed and fortified in the Middle Ages. It is one of the rare authentic places of our past to have preserved all its value as a testimony, both in the layout of the shelters and defence systems, and in its natural and wild setting.

The Fort of La Roque Gageac, a town we stayed in for the front end of our visit, is an ancient medieval fortification from the 12th century overlooking the Dordogne River and offering an exceptional 180° panorama over the valley. You will reach the Fort by a vertiginous staircase on the cliffside. Built into the rock, the fort was a very elaborate defensive site. You will discover a moat, a stunner, a walkway, archways, loopholes and gun ports. Partially collapsed in 2010, the site has undergone 10 years of major consolidation and safety work.