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Saturday, October 23, 2010

Cuban Currency


In psychiatry we say all problems that are socially mediated go back to one of two things--sex and money--sometimes both. So why should money in Cuba be different from anything else in Cuba? To put it mildly, it is complicated. First and foremost, there are two monetary systems--one for Cubans and one for everyone else. So tourists get Cuban Convertables, which are know as CUC, of 'kooks' (which seems appropriate--it is a crazy system)--they are worth about 24 regular Cuban pesos. What they are worth compared to other currencies is difficult to ascertain, and fluctuates daily. What seems to be consistent is the 'penalty' imposed on American dollars--they have the worst conversion rate, whereas Loons and Euros are definitely better.
The dual currency system seems set up to make for two different societies--Cubans, and those that visit Cuba--the later are paying top dollar (or top peso) for everything, which is priced in such a way that even if they were allowed to access it, Cubans could not afford. Lunch at a tourist establishment costs literally what the average Cuban makes in a month. So it is a way to not allow tourists to really experience Cuba as Cubans do. We are kept at arms length, with what they think we want.
We had lunch one day in Havana near the Riviera Hotel. One of my traveling companions pointed to the lunch that all the women at an adjoining table were having--it was rice, black beans, fried plantains, and what looked like a deliscious squash stew. No, we were told, that is not on the menu. You cannot have that. Why not? They are having it! That is lunch for Cubans, not for you. Ok, what on the menu is comida tipica, we asked. Lobster, we were told! No way, and definitely not true. If you want to experience anything approaching what Cubans live with, a paladar is the closest it seems that we can get without putting ourselves and others in harms way.

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