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Saturday, October 16, 2010

Paladares as a Paradigm


Paladar (plural: paladares) is the popular name given to a small, family-run, private-owned restaurant in Cuba--the name comes from Portuguese, for flavor, and for a better sense of what Cuban cooking is like, a meal in a paladar is mandatory. The Cuban government allows families to start and keep control of these small businesses in exchange for very high taxes. Paladares are limited to 12 seats only (although they usually have more than that--the one pictured here is in someones small private home--you went through their bedroom to get to the bathroom--but many are quite large). They must serve local food, such as rice and bean, pork and seafood. Cubans do not heavily spice their food, but there is a liberal use of lime and garlic that is quite delicious in the hands of a paladar cook.
The paladares are known for the simplicity and authenticity of their food and for having very good prices compared to the good quality of the food. They don't have particular names or even plates at their doors to inform passers-by that they exist. Being owned by poor families, they also have little to no advertisement--in Havana it was easier to find them through our guide, but in smaller towns it was word-of-mouth.
The paladar pictured above had wonderful food, but truthfully I would have paid the 8 CUC for the experience itself. The women had seen us dancing in the town square in a very norteamericano fashion and did a wonderful job of trying to teach us how to swing our hips in a bona fide Latin style. I haven't laughed so hard, and the hug the woman gave me as we left, I am sure to say that despite my lack of hip action, she wished me well, was genuine and memorable. The dance lesson was followed by a serenade of Cuban music that was spectacular in it's quality and it's passion. The depth of musical talent in Cuba is remarkable. This is what Cuba can be. I hope that the paladar represents what Cuba becomes--entrepreneurial, fun, successful, friendly, a mixed culture that celebrates where it has come from and where it is going.

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