Between Rüdesheim and Koblenz, the
Rhine cuts deeply through the Rhenish slate mountains, meandering
between hillside castles and steep fields of wine-producing grapes. This
is Germany’s landscape at its most dramatic – forested hillsides
alternate with craggy cliffs and near-vertical terraced vineyards.
Idyllic villages appear around each bend, their half-timbered houses and
Gothic church steeples seemingly plucked from the world of fairy tales.
Medieval castles perch high
above the river. Most were built by local robber barons –
knights, princes and even bishops – who extorted tolls from merchant
ships by blocking their passage with iron chains. Time and French troops
under Louis XIV laid waste to many of the castles, but several were
restored in the 19th century, when Prussian kings, German poets and
British painters discovered the area’s beauty. In 2002, UNESCO
designated these 65 kilometres of riverscape, known as the Oberes
Mittelrheintal, as a World Heritage Site. Visit some decaying castles and picturesque towns, and sit and watch this working river with remarkably active boat traffic.
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