Restaurante Lurrak, Arbonne, France

We spent almost a week in Basque country and one day of it was spent in French Basque ountry. We did not get to a memorable bakery, and we did not get any cheese, so that was disappointing to the point of needing to go back when time is less of an issue, but the restaurant we ate at was perfect.

The emphasis on seasonal food, and the fact that we were there when it was white asparagus, artichoke, and strawberry season was exceptional, and we were able to have these delicacies almost every day. The top picture is of a lightly pickle and thinly sliced kohlrabi that was absolutely the best version of this spring vegetable that I have ever had. The kitchen was small, as was the restaurant, but it was a memorable and delicious lunch!

Pondichéry, India

Yet another seaside town on the Bay of Bengal. Pondicherry, India, was under French rule for 138 years, from 1674 to 1954. In 1673, French officer Bellanger de l'Espinay moved into the Danish Lodge, marking the beginning of French administration. In 1674, François Martin, the first governor, began projects to turn the fishing village into a port town.

The transition away from French rule was gradual. In 1948, the French and Indian governments agreed that the inhabitants of the French Indian possessions would choose their political future. In 1954, the French possessions were transferred to the Indian Union and became a Union Territory. Puducherry officially became part of India in 1963. Many Tamil residents of Pondicherry have French passports because their ancestors were in French governmental service and chose to remain French at the time of Independence. In 2013, there were 9,950 French nationals in India. I was looking forward to being here, but while the architecture is definitely French. there are signs in French, and some people even speak a little French to this say, there wasn't much left. The "French Fusion" was heavily Indian influenced, and overall glad we spent just an afternoon here.

Gaya Pierre Gagnaire, Paris, France

This was our last lunch of the trip (which has been a stellar food trip, no doubt about it). I like to have a lot of things from the ocean when I travel to places that abutt the sea, and this was an especially accommodating menu for that goal. The Michelin website says: Chef Pierre Gagnaire has a focus on good food in a bid to cater to modern French sensibilities with a seafaring slant (carpaccio of seabream, pink radishes and grapefruit; giant langoustine, cream of Paimpol beans, scallion onions) and a fondness for veggies.

The seafood platter for deux. There are about 40 tiny cockles sprinkled throughout that with some difficulty and a little finesse we were able to use the red topped toothpicks to get out the innards. One of my favorites—teeny tiny flavorful morsels! We really enjoyed this as the show stopping part of the meal, but there was much to love about this restaurant from start to finish.

Paris 1874 Inventing impressionism, Musée d'Orsay, Paris, France

150 years ago, on April 15, 1874, the first impressionist exhibition opened in Paris. “Hungry for independence”, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Morisot, Pissarro, Sisley and Cézanne finally decided to free themselves from the rules by holding their own exhibition, outside official channels: impressionism was born. To celebrate this anniversary, Musée d’Orsay presented some 130 works and bringing a fresh eye to bear on this key date, regarded as the day that launched the avant-gardes. It was stunning, so beautiful as to be almost overwhelming, and when the museum emailed me several says after I returned home with the question "did you see everything?" (wanting me to consider museum membership as a means of rectifying that) my reply was that I saw almost none of it, I just saw this amazing feast of color and talent.

In the museum's own words: What exactly happened in Paris in that spring of 1874, and what sense should we make today of an exhibition that has become legendary? “Paris 1874. The Impressionist Moment” seeks to trace the advent of an artistic movement that emerged in a rapidly changing world. “Paris 1874” reviews the circumstances that led these 31 artists (only seven of whom are well-known across the world today) to join forces and exhibit their works together. The period in question had a post-war climate, following two conflicts: the Franco-German War of 1870, and then a violent civil war. In this context of crisis, artists began to rethink their art and explore new directions. A little “clan of rebels” painted scenes of modern life, and landscapes sketched in the open air, in pale hues and with the lightest of touches. As one observer noted, “What they seem above all to be aiming at is an impression”.

Cimitiere Le Pere Lachaise, Paris, France

is where Jim Morrison, the Doors singer, is buried, but also numerous French statesmen, writers and singers. The Père Lachaise is located in the 20th arrondissement and was the first garden cemetery, as well as the first municipal cemetery in Paris. It is also the site of three World War I memorials—including one that wraps around the exterior wall, that lists names, Vietnam War memorial style, deaths by year, only the list is much longer. Like, 4 times as many French died in yhe Battle of the Somme as US soldiers died in the whole Vietnam War.

The cemetery of Père Lachaise opened in 1804 and takes its name from the confessor to Louis XIV, Père François de la Chaise (1624–1709), who lived in the Jesuit house rebuilt during 1682 on the site of the chapel. The property, situated on the hillside from which the king watched skirmishing between the armies of the Condé and Turenne during the Fronde, was bought by the city in 1804. Established as a cemetery by Napoleon during that year. It is a beautiful spot, but my spouse thinks the famous people should have been buried closer together.

Musée National Gustave Moreau, Paris, France

Gustave Moreau first rose to fame with the exhibition in the 1864 Salon of his Oedipe et le sphinx, though, from the 1880s onwards, he increasingly shrank from public exhibition. This enormous house in Nouvelle Athens with soaring ceilings, which had been his childhood home, became his increasing focus during this period of his life. In 1895, he commissioned the young architect Albert Lafon to convert it from hôtel particulier into a museum including a dedicated gallery space, private domestic quarters and studio. The latter extended over the second and third floor, connected by a small staircase, providing space for hundreds of paintings and thousands of drawings.

In 1897, Moreau decided to bequeath the house and its contents to the French nation, in the hope that its preservation in total would 'allow the public to appreciate the culmination of the artist's lifelong work and labour'. When it opened to the public in 1903, the Musée Moreau had in its collection some 14,000 works. The museum appears today much as it did then, and includes a major collection of paintings by Moreau. If you prefer architecture over paintings, all the more reason to tour this spectacular space.

Aux 2 K, Paris, France

After a very pleasant train ride to Paris, we shed our luggage and headed to Aux 2 K for a late lunch. It is tiny—only 10 two person tables that can be strung together for a larger gathering and a bathroom so small the sink is atop the toilet tank and I was slightly concerned I wouldn’t be able to both be seated and close the door, but the food was delicious! The table settings are lovely, this tuna tartar was delicious, but my favorite dish was the pollack with a sorrel puree underneath and peas on top. The fish was the star and pairing well with the lemony sorrel. My spouse favored the duck breast with white asparagus (which I get is super fancy, a spring delicacy, and a pain to grow, but after this trip, I know for sure I prefer the green version—more flavor!), and the most buttery polenta I have ever had.

Here is what the Michelin site says about this Bib Gourmand restaurant: The two K's refer to Kagy (Samantha, chef) and Kinoshita (Kimiko, pastry chef), a pair who joined forces after gaining a wealth of experience in some prestigious establishments (Violon d'Ingres, L'Ours, Atelier Joël Robuchon, Taillevent). Their abundant technical skill is clearly demonstrated in dishes that are as delicious as their names are enticing. A few nods to the South-West of France are a reminder of the influence of Christian Constant. A culinary feat pulled off with great care and finesse, and at lunchtime, a set menu at an unbeatable price.

Paris Reconsidered

We spent a little time in Paris our last trip to France. We are starting to love not having a connection in Europe, to fly to a city near where we want to end up and then get there by land. There are a lot of great things to say about that, but there is an issue with the end, where you need to be at least nearby to fly out. Last time we had a lovely late lunch just north of the Perigord, and then we arrived in the evening to stay at an airport hotel, which was fine, but definitely the least lovely part of the trip. This past time we spent two nights in Paris, and that was much better.

I had done all the classic Paris things when we were there with our kids. We saw the Eiffel Tower, went though the Louvre, climbed to the top of the I had done all the classic Paris things when we were there with our kids. We saw the Eiffel Tower, went though the Louvre, climbed to the top of the Arc se Triomphe. We had even done things that perhaps were less classic, like Napoleon's tomb and the catacombs. None of that sold me. This time, in addition to spectacular food, which really, you can get almost anywhere in France, it was the city itself. First of all, like my adopted home town, a river runs through it. The majestic River Seine winds its way through the heart of the city and its banks are a proven pathway to explore Paris on foot. The history of Paris is uniquely tied to the river, as it is one of the oldest trade routes navigated through the centuries by migrating tribes, Romans, and Vikings. The bridges themselves are beautiful to behold. Then there is walking about. Paris is actually quite easy to navigate. We can thank the visionary Georges-Eugène Haussmann for this, as it was his responsibility to reorganize and renovate the city; a huge task that started in 1853 and ended in 1870. Because of his ordered grand scheme, there are twenty arrondissements and you can always tell which one you’re in because most street signs clearly indicate the number. Public transit is a breeze, and overall, while I am not going to spend much time here, I would do the same next trip, a pause in the city of light before heading home.

La Ribaudière, Bourg Charente, Cognac, France.

Our late spring trip to France featured a number of restaurants that have a Michelin star and this was one of them--it was my husband's favorite meal of the trip. The , chefs Thierry and Julien Verrat (father and son) create fine cuisine where invention goes hand in hand with La Ribaudière’s natural surroundings. The owner of a vineyard and a truffle field, Verrat is passionate about the Charentais region, which is a real land of plenty. Here, he creates dishes that bring out the best of his excellent ingredients with delicacy and conviction, using the full panoply of local produce, ranging from Cognac and Pineau des Charentes to wild snails and fish from the nearby Atlantic.

Practically by default it has become the go-to place for VIPs that are in the area visiting the Cognac houses. La Ribaudière encompasses a main dining room, terrace, private salon and a bar that offers its own menu of reasonably priced bistro dishes at lunch. The outdoor seating, and the tables near the floor-to-ceiling windows, present views of the pastoral countryside and the Charente River, which was a bathing spot of the beloved King Francois I. Inside, touches of whimsy are added to the mostly white décor via colorful glassware and a chime decoration made from kitchen utensils.

Then there was the food. It was explosively flavorful and also thematic. My spouse's favorite course was the duck course, which featured a smoked duck egg custard, a duck neck stuffed with fois gras, cured duck, dried duck and so on. As we neared the end we got one of our favorites, the cheese selection, and of course we had cognac. When we return we will have to do some additional tasting of that and then bring some home to share.

Les Lapidiales de Port d'Envaux, France

Here’s a cool thing—since we were already going to Saintes, Joel looked in the France Rough Guide for other things in the area and found this sculpture site, which is open 24/7 and no fee. It is an old limestone quarry that has dozens of sculptures over a very walkable site with loads of parking. I was reading recently that with the advent of lots of free content on the internet it was thought that the age of the guidebook was over, and maybe it is for some, but not so for me. I get them electronically now (the search funtion has really improved, and I have stopped carrying any sort of paper when I travel to lighten my load) but I love them, and spend a lot of time with them before we go, planning out the trip locations to visit.

Here is what they have to say for themselves: The white limestone cliff walls and underground chambers where the rock was once quarried are covered in sculptures in styles ranging from abstract to figurative. For twelve years, the Lapidiales site has offered a unique residency to contemporary sculptors of all nationalities who come to carve new works into the stone. The artists are free to build fantastic stone sculptures with a view to giving future generations a work from which to be inspired, creating a perpetually growing art space. The project was started by actor, director, designer, and sculptor Alain Tenenbaum who still oversees the space. The open air art quarry is free and open year round just waiting for visitors to come and find their own. It is truly spectacular!

Saintes, France

Saintes was originally a prosperous settlement in the area of the Santones, a Gallic tribe, and the town became the chief centre of the district later known as the Saintonge. After the Roman conquest it became known as Mediolanum Santonum and was the capital of the Roman Empire in Gaul. The town’s most noteworthy Roman remains are a ruined 1st-century amphitheatre and an arch that had been transferred from a Roman bridge, known as the Arch of Germanicus.

Germanicus is my favorite post-Caesar Roman Emperor until Trajan. The details of his career are known from the Annals of the Roman historian Tacitus, who portrayed him as a champion of republican principles and played him off in his historical chronicles against Tiberius, whom he depicted as an autocratic villain. Through his mother, Antonia, Germanicus was grandnephew of the emperor Augustus and his father was Tiberius’s brother. He was wildly popular--a Quaestor at the age of 21, Germanicus served under Tiberius in Illyricum (7–9 CE) and then on the Rhine (11 CE). As consul in the year 12, he was appointed to command Gaul and the two Rhine armies. His personal popularity enabled him to quell the mutiny that broke out in his legions after Augustus’s death (14). Although pressed to claim the empire for himself, Germanicus remained firmly loyal to Tiberius. In three successive campaigns (14–16), he crossed the Rhine to engage the German tribes, inflicting several defeats in an ultimately inconclusive struggle. Finally, having aroused the jealousy and fears of Tiberius, he was recalled to Rome. Later he met his death, like many related to Tiberius, by poisoning. I spent 4 years shadowing a Classics major which furthered a love of seeing ancient ruins wherever they are. So we swooped in—we came, we saw, we left.

Le Patio, Arcachon, France

We had lunch in Aranchon at Chef Thierry Reno’s Le Patio. This restaurant near the port has made it its mission to showcase the best produce from the Aquitaine region: asparagus from the Landes, lamb from Pauillac, oysters from the bay—the sources get their own page in the menu. We opted for the lengthiest menu, which is chef’s choice. Joel liked but did not love this and I loved it—everything I love that is seasonally spring: asparagus, peas, carrots, radishes, wild garlic, morels, spring onions, strawberries and rhubarb was represented. The restaurant has one Michelin star.

I loved the patio setting, which is a feeling of being outdoors while you are very much indoors--we were there on a cold and rainy day, and yet inside under the skylit dining room, it felt like a bright and sunny day. I loved the table ware--the serving dishes were as gorgeous as the food, and while it wasn't all successful--no, I did not care for the spring pea ice cream--it was innovative and seasonal. My spouse was less enthusiastic, but I loved it.

Arcachon, France

We spent the day driving around the coast near Bordeaux. Arachon is popular for beaches, but we were there because it is where oysters are farmed. You can see the appeal. Cap Ferret, which is directly across the bay from Arcachon, is a spit that separates the bay from the Atlantic Ocean. I have not spent much time in French beach towns, but the architecture here is different from any French town I have been in before.

Arcachonnaise is the local name for an Arcachon villa, which is the architectural style of many of the older houses built in France. It is a type of Victorian architecture. These fantastical homes are equipped with balconies with chiseled additions, turrets, colonnades, neo-classical facades, extravagant roofs, singular stairs, verandas and exotic gardens.

Restaurant Le Tertre, Saint-Émillion, France

This is a Michelin selected restaurant in Saint Emilion which is situated mid-way up a street with about a 25% grade and a railing in the middle to help haul yourself up or prevent tumbling down, depending upon your direction (see menu cover—true depiction). We were seated in a small nook street-side, where we could both watch people of various skill levels navigate the terrain and also to be observed and commented upon ourselves. The meal was spectacular and well worth the 1/2 hour trian ride from Bordeaux.

We opened the meal with a squid dish and followed it with hake wrapped in seaweed with a ponzu sauce, a side of seaweed, radish slices, wasabi topped with teeny tiny mushrooms, and flowers! There was a cheese course at the end that was quite good, alongside a dessert featuring fresh strawberries, but the langostines (a favorite of mine) atop a spring carrot mash, in a pea broth was, in my opinion, the best dish. My spouse would argue that the duck was excellent, and he would be right about that.

Saint-Émillion, Bordeaux, France

St. Emilion is a medieval era town in terms of architecture, but has been continually inhabited since about 35,000 BCE. The Romans planted vineyards in what was to become Saint-Émilion as early as the 2nd century. In the 4th century, the Latin poet Ausonius lauded the fruit of the bountiful vine. The Grand Cru appellation was added in 1954, and the whole town and wine growing region was given a UNESCO World Heritage site status in 1999.

It is a beautiful town built into a hill with spectacular views, and with 800 vinyards in the surrounding area (67% of land is planted in grape vines). The town is perfect for aging wine at the perfect temperature--there are loads of underground tunnels under the town. It is easy to taste a lot of great to magnificent wine, but wow, we were by no means the first people to discover this jewel, and the tourists outnumber the inhabitants on the streets 20:1. Plan accordingly!

Canelés de Bordeaux

When it comes to pastry, you cannot get more evocative of Bordeaux" cannelés (pronounced "can-eh-lay"), also spelled canelés. They are a regional pride, and you see them everywhere. They are surprisingly simple pastries, needing only basic ingredients–milk, flour, eggs, butter, sugar, and vanilla. But baking them at high heat in ridged fluted molds transforms them from a liquid batter to deep golden brown treasures. The outer shell is crunchy and crisp while the inside is delicious custard. Cannelés are still rather rare outside of France unless you are lucky enough to have a bakery around that sells the (my SIL is able to get them at a weekly Farmer's Market in Baltimore, lucky her). The task is left up to passionate home bakers to make them. The copper molds are the key--and we bought some in the shop pictured to try our hand at them at home.

La Tupina, Bourdeux, France

We ate here for a late lunch/early dinner on a Sunday, a day where the open restaurants are limited. It is a Michelin noted restaurant and it serves very traditional French country food. A genuine institution, it champions dishes of yesteryear--such as Sanguette (blood pudding), macaronade (pasta with beef and tomato sauce), chips fried in duck fat (which we had alongside our roast chicken). I also loved how the plates and the woven linens had matching patterns.

The other aspect is that local produce is promoted with conviction in hearty dishes from South-West France, but also seasonal vegetables and meat roasted in the hearth. The fine produce on the counter certainly whets the appetite. We had the white asparagus because it was in season and on offer--I discovered that I really do prefer what for me is the more flavorful green variety, but that was only made possible by trying both side by side during this meal. The people watching was exceptional--several multi-generational French families, who were having uber-traditional meals as well. This is not my favorite French food, but this was a godd experience, especially on a day when there were few options.

Marché des Capucins, Bordeaux, France

Le Marché des Capucins is one of the oldest markets in France and it rightfully carries the title “The Belly of Bordeaux”. It’s probably the most important gastronomic center in Bordeaux which makes it a must-visit for anyone traveling to Bordeaux. we went for cheese and charcuterie, and left with that plus local pate, an assortment of olives, and some fresh strawberries that were magnificent. We were not planning to cook on this trip--we hope to do so when we are in France for longer visits, but not this one--but if we were planning to do so, this would have been an excellent spot for seafood and vegetables.

When it comes to local food, oysters are one of the highlights of our region. Bordeaux is just one hour away from Arcachon, one of France’s main oyster farming centers. It’s thus not surprising to find good oysters at the main market of Bordeaux. The place we sampled these was a restaurant in the market, Chez Jean-Mi--we made a coupleof mistakes, basically not knowing where exactly the line for a table was, but were seated within about 10 minutes of our trying to sit down--it is a great place to have fresh seafood ans a great place to people watch. We were there on a Sunday, a day of rest for many a local restaurant, so we were pleased to get a nice meal in the late morning.

Influences, Bordeaux, France

My spouse and I arrived in Paris in hte morning, made our way to our train station in the afternoon, and arrived in Bordeaux in the early evening, which of course felt like the middle of the night interspersed with fitful sleep. As as result of our bleary thinking, and not being content with the pre-dinner hour fare at various bistros, we managed to not make a decision until it was practically time for dinner. It was a happy error, because we went to this wonderful restaurant that was just around the corner from our apartment hotel. The best news is that it is open on both Sunday and Monday nights, both of which are lean for restaurant choices. This was an exceptionally organized and prepared meal.

Michelin notes: In a quiet street just a stone's throw from Place Gambetta, this inviting façade has a pleasant surprise in store. A French-American couple – chef Ronnie (who has worked in some decent establishments in California) and pastry chef Aliénor – work in tandem to serve up delicious aromatic dishes that are meticulously plated in a friendly atmosphere. Fresh and subtle fare! The dish at the top is not much to look at but Wow, possibly the best asparagus I have ever had. The foam is smoked herring and the red dots are reduced strawberries. Another memorable dish is just abobe--the langostine, grilled on one side and served in a sauce of crab and langostine cream reduction. It was not unique but the execution was perfect.

Bordeaux, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France

We chose this not because it is a famed wine producing region--in truth, we don't know much about this wine, and we have not had great success in drinking it--combined with it's price point, we were going to need education in this area. No, it is because we have been exploring France, region by region, for thirty years, and this was one we had never been to before. It is a port city on the Garonne River in southwestern France. Bordeaux is an ancient city. Around 300 BC, the region was the settlement of a Celtic tribe, the Bituriges Vivisci, named the town Burdigala, probably of Aquitanian origin. The 18th century, however, was the golden age of Bordeaux. The Port of the Moon supplied the majority of Europe with coffee, cocoa, sugar, cotton and indigo, becoming France's busiest port and the second busiest port in the world after London. Many downtown buildings (about 5,000), including those on the quays, are from this era. In the “never forget” side the of the equation, Bordeaux was also a major trading center for slaves. In total, the Bordeaux shipowners deported 150,000 Africans. It is quite beautiful, despite that, and full of excellent food and wine.