Il Palagio, Florence

Michelin stars are awarded for both exceptional service and cuisine, and are indications of a chef and a restaurant’s merit. Il Palagio, at the Four Seasons in Florence, and Executive Chef Vito Mollica’s authentic Italian cuisine with a contemporary twist were recently awarded one star. When we were in Florence last month the only day that Il Palagio was open was for Valentines Day dinner--they are undergoing a renovation, and it was otherwise closed for several months. So we did not get to order off their usual menu. We arrived at the exact hour that it opened--which is our norm in countries where the dining hour is late and we are only there a week or less (after a week we can be more or less on the country's time, and so waiting later for dinner becomes an option). It is an over the top gorgeous room, with painted murals on the walls, over-sized crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, and a marble floor--in the middle of dinner when a waiter at a nearby table swept a glass off the edge of said table onto said floor, it broke into a thousand pieces with a deafening roar. Oops. We were almost alone in the restaurant for the first three courses, as a result of our being a bit jet lagged and everyone else being Italian. We opened with an amusee buche, which was quite delicious--my favorite was a pistachio shortbread, topped with a bit of fresh cheese and a small cube of flavorful salami. The combination was just perfect. There was a fish egg one and a liver pate one that were very good. We then went to the appetizer, which was a choice between a fine aged chingiale and oysters--we got one of each, and they were both very good. Next we had bass carpacio or beef tartar, and once again we had one of each. The main course was duck--a confit leg and a seared breast. Both were excellently prepared and served with an excellent sauce and very nice sides. The dessert, coffee and sweets were all well done. My only hesitation about recommending this place is that we could have been anywhere--including the United States--and when in Italy, I would prefer to eat food that resounds of the cuisine of the region I am in. Again, that might happen when it is not a special meal, so best to check the on-line menu before making a final decision about this very fine restaurant.