Izakaya Hamagumi, Kanazawa, Japan

We arrived at the restaurant about 10 minutes before it opened and there were two parites waiting ahead of us--this is a popular place, and reservations would be recommended. We sat at the bar and had a good view into the kitchen--this was a common theme on this trip, and for me it definitely added to the fun. I had the best saki of the trip here, and enjoyed watching them prepare carafes for other tables as well. To begin we had pickles a raw shrimp dish, an octopus amuse bouche, and small whole shrimp tempura that I failed to photograph but loved best of all. A close second was the collar of yellow tail--I love this dish, because it is fish on the bone that is easily managed and also not to much food.

This restaurant was in the samurai district in Kanazawa, which was noticably old architecturally and also distinct from the districts we had been in up to then. It's historical value lies in its unusual state of preservation. It has escaped large-scale fires, including the firebombing that damaged other large cities such as Tokyo and Osaka during World War II. Accordingly, it retains many features from the Edo period: narrow streets, a drainage and water supply system that remains in use, and restored samurai houses. Many of these residences maintain their original earthen walls (tsuchi-kabe), which are still covered in the winter with straw mats to protect them from frost and subsequent cracking