Pad Thai

The Minimalist column last week was on Pad Thai. The yardstick by which all Thai restaurants in the United States are measured. Once you get the trick to soaking the rice noodles, it can be a wonderful make-at-home dish, especially if you do not have a wonderful Thai restaurant down the block.
4 ounces fettuccine-width rice stick noodles
2 Tbs. vgetable oil
1/4 cup ketchup
1/4 cup fish sauce (nam pla)
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
1/4 cup chopped scallions
3 garlic clove, minced
2 eggs
4 cups Napa cabbage
1 cup mung bean sprouts
1/2 pound peeled shrimp, pressed tofu or a combination
1/2 cup roasted peanuts, chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 limes, quartered.

1. Put noodles in a large bowl and add boiling water to cover. Let sit until noodles are just tender; check every 5 minutes or so to make sure they do not get too soft--this is the absolutely critical step in the success of the dish. The noodles need to be soft enough to cook through, but not so soft that they will get mushy as they cook. Drain, drizzle with one tablespoon peanut oil to keep from sticking and set aside. Meanwhile, put tamarind paste, fish sauce, honey and vinegar in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and bring just to a simmer. Stir in red pepper flakes and set aside.

2. Put remaining tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; when oil shimmers, add scallions and garlic and cook for about a minute. Add eggs to pan; once they begin to set, scramble them until just done. Add cabbage and bean sprouts and continue to cook until cabbage begins to wilt, then add shrimp or tofu (or both).

3. When shrimp begin to turn pink and tofu begins to brown, add drained noodles to pan along with sauce. Toss everything together to coat with sauce and combine well. When noodles are warmed through, serve, sprinkling each dish with peanuts and garnishing with cilantro and lime wedges.