Braised Short Rib Stew

In the late spring of the pandemic we ordered half of a cow. It was something that we had thought of doing in the past, and never quite did. We have routinely gotten whole pigs and lambs in the past, and enjoyed all aspects of it, including getting a local animal, supporting a neighbor, and our community, so when meat got very briefly tight we made the plunge, and this is what we made with the short ribs (a NYT recipe from Roy Choi. 4 pounds bone-in short ribs 1 small bunch scallions, trimmed and roughly chopped 1 ½ cups soy sauce ¼ cup chopped fresh ginger 1 small yellow onion, roughly chopped ½ cup garlic cloves, peeled (about 2 heads) ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup mirin ½ cup fresh orange juice ½ cup apple juice ½ pound shiitake mushrooms, stems reserved for another use, halved or quartered if large 1 cup jarred, peeled chestnuts 1 cup taro, peeled and cut into large dice (about a 3-inch segment) 1 cup carrots, peeled and cut into large dice (about 2 carrots) 1 cup butternut squash, peeled and cubed (about half a squash) Put short ribs in a bowl, and cover with water. Drain, and discard water. Repeat twice. Remove short ribs from bowl, and score them diagonally across the top of the meat. Return ribs to the bowl, and rinse again. Remove, and pat dry. In a blender or food processor, combine scallions, soy sauce, ginger, onion, garlic, sugar, mirin, orange juice and apple juice, then pulse to purée. Add a little water if you need to thin out the sauce so it combines. Put puréed sauce in a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven with a lid, add 3 cups water and stir to combine. Bring pot to a boil over high heat, then add the ribs to the pot and lower heat to a simmer. Cover pot. Cook ribs over low for at least 2 hours. Add vegetables, cover and simmer, 30 minutes more or so, until meat is tender and vegetables are cooked through. Serve warm.

Together Together (2021)

I unexpectedly loved this movie. As a review I read said, is not just smart, it's sneaky-smart. You go into it thinking you know what you're getting into, and the movie conspicuously makes choices that seem intended to announce which boxes it's about to check off. Then it keeps confounding you—in a way that's understated rather than flashy—until you come to accept it on its own terms. It's the perfect storytelling tactic for a movie about a surrogate mother and her patron, a divorced man 20 years her senior. The main characters don't fully appreciate each other until they quit trying to categorize their relationship and let it be whatever it's going to be, while trying not obsess over what'll happen once the baby is born. The script is pitch perfect, and the two main actors make it happen. There was one moment of insight for me, a mistake I haven't made yet but still could. The woman who is the surrogate got pregnant and had a baby in high school that she put up for adoption, that is how she knows that she can carry a vhild and give it away. The pearl of wisdom is that she lost her family, because they saw her differently after she got pregnant, and when she was with them, she couldn't stop seeing herself that way and so she had to leave them. A terrible awful no good mistake, that is so bittersweet and so believable. There is a lot to be learned here.

Les Glycines, Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, France

This restaurant is in the town that is near the painted caves that are found throughout the region. The potential for it to be touristy was high, but it wasn't the dining room has a gorgeous view, and is both ancient and modern at the same time. The lunch is a prix fixe at 35 euros, which is well worth it.

The fresh trout in this dish is local, and served in a celery puree--this was a dish that looks great and tastes even better. We had a glass of Monbazillac to go with it and it was memorably delicious.

One thing that we did not do a lot of on this trip was to eat more traditional French dishes, of which this, Veal Blanchette, is one. This was amazing, great mushroom flavor lightly flavored, veal tender, heavy but so delicious that you eat it slowly and savor every bite. I am going to try the blanchette technique with chicken thighs and see if We can replicate a bit. Served with a rice pilaf and enough for two!

She Wouldn't Change a Thing by Sarah Adlakha

The author is someone that I know, in a way. She was a resident and I was the residency training director, so a professional relationship, made more personal by being a psychotherapy advisor as well. I am underpowered to fill that role, and was at the time, but she was talented and did not need much from me. She has published her first novel and I really enjoyed it. There is a time travel element, which is not well within my loves, but it is well constructed for the non-fantasy lovers amongst us. She opens the novel with a quote, which will become quite prophetic based on the action to come: “We are not human beings having a spiritual experience. We are spiritual beings having a human experience.” – Pierre Teilhard de Chardin. If you are looking for a novel that will make you think, feel and experience along with the protagonist every single emotion and spiritual dilemma, then you've come to the right place. Dr. Adlakha writes what she knows and constructs a wonderful ride to go along with it--and an obvious jump to a second novel, to boot. Recommended!

French Weekly Markets, Periguex, France

This is the week to reflect on what we have and to give thanks, and I am well up to the task. The thing that I have as a stretch goal is to spend more time in and around the weekly markets that occur in France, to be able to spend enough time in a place to really take advantage of a culture that is built around food.

The fact that you can live in a small town, and not have to leave and still have great access to meats, cheese, seafood and fruits and vegetables is a huge draw for me, and something that I am very jealous of coming from a small midwestern town. I carry things home with me when I travel (France was no exception), the ability to do it as a matter of course would be outstanding.

There is something about these outdoor markets that I find attractive--I had forgotten that but my spouse remembered, and we made three attempts with two successes in our realtively short stay. The French make food shopping fun again!

Local Thanks

The pandemic has made me more of a home body--I suppose that is true for most of us, but it wasn't a burden to be so isolated, at least some of the time, and I have been even more focused on being able to get food that is localas a result. We are long time CSA supporters, and have bought meat directly from the farmer for over three decades. Now I am really loving a Thanksgiving where many of the things on the table were grown in or near the county I live in. I am eating an apple from a local farm even as I write this, at the end of January, I am still able to have this experience, and feel very blessed about that. Happy day of thanks to you and yours.

Brantôme, Perigord Vert, France

Brantôme is in what is known as Perigord Vert, and the last of the four regions to visit. The médiévale town has what is thought to be the oldest bell tower in France, dating back to the 11th century and gets some of it’s height from being built into the rock face. This town is notable for well preserved architecture, coupled with exceptional parking (definitely not a given in a town built pre-automobiles) and a river runs through it.

Another feature is that a river runs through it. Brantome sits on a bend of the river Dronne that encircles a large part of the town and the steep wooded slopes form an attractive backdrop. The Benedictine Abbey on the river's edge is superb and this along with the old stone bridge, weir and pretty mill now turned into a splendid hotel and restaurant all make for a very photogenic scene and make Brantome one of the most beautiful towns of the Perigord Vert.

The Abbey, which the town was built up around, was built by Charlemagne in 769 and is the main historical highlight of the town along with its troglodyte caves including the famous cave of the 'Last Judgement'.

Cloud Cuckoo Land by Anthony Doerr

I found this to be a book that I liked more the further I got in it, and there is plenty of book to be had here. This is a big novel of people thinking big thoughts. The story that underlies the action, which occurs over centuries, is a tale that dates back to ancient times. The story is then interwoven with different characters over different times, some good, some not, all of them are complicated in their own ways and products of their times. In time, we learn the outcomes of several of these stories, and how you might conceive them to be interconnected in their own way. It is a seat of your pants action book that unfolds in a decpetively sluggish manner, and exciting to the end. The earliest action takes place in the mid-15th century when Omeir, an ostracized boy with a cleft palate who is my favorite. He is conscripted into the Ottoman army and becomes a reluctant witness to one of history’s most consequential battles. The new sultan is marching on Constantinople with a set of mighty cannons that may allow him to breach the city’s ancient walls. There are other soldiers and other wars, and it is nicely tied up, more or less, in the end.

Moulin de L'Abbaye, Brantôme, France

We were largely focuses on restaurants with a Bib Gourmand designation from Michelin, which indicates a superior meal, perhaps but not always focusing on local specialties, and at a good value. It was a wildly successful strategy, but we veered off of it to have a meal at a One Star restaurant, because there are just oodles of them in this region, and why miss out on that completely? The setting is absolutely unparalleled. Our table looked out on a water wheel and the Dromme River, so beucolic and peaceful as a setting for a special meal.

We agreed that we would eat whatever the chef, Ramses Alan Navarro ( a Mexican native who moved to France after working in Mexico City), made for us. Each course is a complete surprise, and we were not disappointed, from the amuse bouche and the coofee and sweets that we ate outside along the edge of the river.

THe two courses pictured here are a duck confite ravioli and a roulade of sole filled with and surrounded by razor clams. These were two of my favorite courses that I ate the whole trip, and the meal was very slow in pace, so that you could really savor each bite, not just the individual courses. Warning, though--this took 3 plus hours from the time we were seated until we were back in our car, so it is almost a whole day thing to eat here and see the town, or at least it was for us.

Eggplant Lentil Stew

We had such a productive garden, right up to the first frost we were still harvesting tomatoes and eggplants, a few peppers, and there were even new blossoms on the plants. This is a perfect hearty dish to use what we have in such abundance right now. 3 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra to serve 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced 1 large red onion, finely chopped (160g) ½ tbsp picked thyme leaves 2 small aubergines, cut into chunks, about 5 x 2cm (420g) 200g cherry tomatoes 180g Puy lentils 500ml vegetable stock 80ml dry white wine 100g crème fraîche or sour cream or yogurt 1 tsp Urfa chilli flakes (or ½ tsp regular chilli flakes) 2 tsp picked oregano leaves salt and black pepper Put 2 tablespoons of oil into a large, high-sided sauté pan and place on a medium high heat. Add the garlic, onion, thyme and ¼ teaspoon of salt and fry for 8 minutes, stirring often, until soft and golden. Tip into a bowl, leaving the oil behind. Set aside. Place the aubergines and tomatoes in a bowl and season with ¼ teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper. Add the remaining oil to the same pan (don’t worry about wiping it clean) and, once very hot, add the aubergines and tomatoes. Fry for 10 minutes, on medium high, turning them often until the aubergine is soft and golden-brown and the tomatoes are beginning to blacken. Return the garlic and onion to the pan, then add the lentils, stock, wine, 450ml of water and ¾ teaspoon of salt. Bring to the boil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer gently for about 40 minutes, until the lentils are soft but still retain a bite. Serve warm, or at room temperature, with a dollop of crème fraîche, a drizzle of oil and chilli flakes and oregano on top.

Perigeux, Perigord Blanc, France

We chose this region of France to visit based on a murder mystery series written by Martin Walker that is set here. Periguex is a town that the main character visits with some frequency, and we made it our home base for the second half of our trip to the region. We stayed in an Airbnb in the heart of the old town, and I would highly recommend that. The weekly market (which happens twice a week in Periguex) was right outside our door, and had we been staying in France for a more extended period, we would have loved this aspect.

There are really two towns to see at Perigueux, the medieval town and the roman town, as well as an imposing cathedral. We did not seek out the escavated Roman ruins, but from what I have read, they are much like what you would see all over the former Roman Empire--they were builders and engineers, and they took their comforts of home with them whereever they went. The medieval part of town is well worth strolling throu, or staying in and strolling through. I was seeking a place that felt nothing like home, and Periguex was all of that in the very best way.

The Starling (2021)

So many reviews that I read about this movie just hated it, said it was flat and two dimensional and some even said they were embarrassed for Melissa McCarthy for spear heading this effort. I have to disagreee, but then I have two things in my past that may be a bit different from the rest. The first is that my younger brother died when I was ten so I was raised by grieving parents. Then my youngest child had a brain tumor when he was five and spent the year he had surgery, radiation, and chemotherapy in exactly the kind of fog that Lily was in throughout the movie. Lily and Jack (Chris O'Dowd) lose their infant girl to SIDS, and Jack goes in to long term psychiatric care in what appears to be a private hospital. The only unrealistic thing for me is that that is truly unaffordable and he would have probably ended up taking his own life or feeling like he should rather than doing ceramics and therapy for months on end. Lily is left at home, emotionally and physically alone to grapple with her own grief and how to move forward. The story has some twists and turns, but the leadenness of their grief is very relatable for me. Straming on Netflix.

En Cuisine, Brive-la-Gaillarde, France

This is a Michelin Bib gourmand restaraunt (our sweet spot for our Perigord trip)is in an unassuming physical plant both inside and out, but when we looked around, we could see that the food was beautifully displayed and presented, which is more important to us by far. We were almost the last people seated (and would certainly have been turned away if we did not have a reservation), lucky us.

The amuse bouche was both delicious and fun. There were black lentils that resembled caviar, and so forth--I really do love it when it make both me and my mouth smile! The meal was very good--I had a langostine for a started that was spectacular, and my husband's beef tartare was equally delicious for him. The mains were good, and the dessert was delicious and not too fussy.

The sweets with the coffee were also of note. I considered ordering another cup, hoping for a repeat. We savored every bit, and love the European tradition of a nice sweet to go with the bitterness of the espresso. I would definitely return here, and the town has a couple other upscale dining options. Lunch is 35 Euros!

The Giver of Stars by JoJo Moyes

This is a book full of women heroes, and it is the very thing to crystalize how the cvombination of the Roosevelts and and World War II changed a lot of things for a lot of people, but especially for women. The possibilities for women expanded, as did their ability to see beyond what they knew, it allowed women to dream bigger dreams. This is a story about the Pack Horse Library initiative, which sent librarians deep into Appalachia, was one of the New Deal’s most unique plans. The project, as implemented by the Works Progress Administration (WPA), distributed reading material to the people who lived in the craggy, 10,000-square-mile portion of eastern Kentucky. The state already trailed its neighbors in electricity and highways. And during the Depression, food, education and economic opportunity were even scarcer for Appalachians. They also lacked books: In 1930, up to 31 percent of people in eastern Kentucky couldn’t read. Librarians rode up into the Kentucky mountains, their saddlebags stuffed with books, doling out reading material to isolated rural people, and teaching they and their children to read. It is a wack-a-doodle idea, but as portrayed in this book, it helped people and it gave the women who acted as librarians on horseback a lease on life. There is the liberated Maureen O'Hare who doesn't want a man to place limitations on her. There is Alice Bennett who is in a loveless--and sexless--marriage. There is the Isabelle Brady, who feels deformed, but is transformed on a horse. They all benefit from their work and are of benefit to their communities. Moyes is a good storyteller and this is no exception, and it brings to light a small piece of American history.

Brive-la-Gaillarde, France

We ventured out to the very eastern edge of the Perigord after one last morning of wandering through towns on the Bank of the Lot River on our way to the capital of Perigord Blanc, which is Perigeux. This is yet another medieval town, but on a larger scale and with a bit more wear and tear on display.

The tangle of streets in the centre ville has quite a few stone houses from the 15th and 16th centuries, and you may find yourself getting sidetracked into an arcaded courtyard or staring up at an old turret or wrought-iron balcony. I am easily distracted by architectural details, and this wrought iron window dressing was on display throughout the northern part of the Perigord.

This town has several things to visit, which we missed on our first visit, and looked to be worth a return to for further exploration. It also has a number of well recommended restaurants and a weekly market that is supposed to be something to experience.

Supernova (2020)

Two immensely talented actors, Colin Firth and Stanley Tucci, portray a couple in a long standing relationship who are on a real as well as a metaphorical journey. THey are driving around in a camper visiting places and people that hold a lot of meaning to them for one last time as the couple they now are. Tucci is already in the early stages of dementia, and they both realize that soon they will not recognize each other, for different reasons, but the sadness of this realization is palpable. They are entirely believable in these roles, and they are also both quite believable as men, in that they talk almost not at all. The layers of the future losses are unfolded as the movie progresses, and the options that they might consider are also laid out, mostly without dialog. I almost watched it on a trans-Atlantic flight, which would have been a mistake, but it is a well done film on yet another of the sad realities of aging.

Grotte de Font-de-Gaume, Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, France

I cannot say enough about how amazing this cave and the paintings contained within are. It is a deeply moving place to visit, even if you are not a student of Cro-Magnon man, or art, or the civilzations that existed before man largely lived in communities. The caves were not inhabited--even though they were quite warm and cozy on a blustery fall day--perhaps there are quite a few of them, enough for everybody and these were used as canvases to demonstrate the art of the hunt or the behavior of the animals depicted, or something else altogether. They are beautifully rendered, demonstrating prespective and utilizing the bulges in the rock to give three dimentional quality to the animals.

This is the only cave with paintings in the area that you are allowed to go in, and the number of people allowed in each day is limited, even before COVID. No photos allowed, but you will remember this without them, it is simply that beautiful. They do sell tickets on line, and I would encourage doing so, and getting the first tour of the day to lessen the total number of people around.

Roasted Eggplant with Curried Yogurt Sauce

We have had a bumper crop of eggplant this year, with the plants reaching waist high and the eggplant kept growing up to and including the day that we had a frost. So of course it is time to explore the Ottolenghi eggplant repertoire of serving options. 3 large eggplants 5 tbsp olive oil divided 1 cup greek yogurt 2 tsp curry powder divided 1/4 tsp turmeric, ground 1 lime zested and juiced 1 large onion sliced thin 1/4 cup sliced almonds 1/2 tsp cumin seeds 1/2 tsp coriander seeds 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds salt to taste pepper to taste Method Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Peel the eggplant in alternating strips. Cut into 3/4″-1″ thick slices. Place slices in a large bowl and toss with the olive oil and salt and pepper, to taste. Lay slices on parchment lined baking sheets. Bake for 35 or so minutes until soft and golden brown. Leave to cool. In a small bowl, mix the yogurt with 1 teaspoon curry powder, turmeric, lime juice and zest and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside in refrigerator. Heat a large pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the onions. Saute’ for about 8 minutes, stirring often, until caramelized and golden brown, lowering heat as needed to prevent burning. Add 1 teaspoon curry powder and the almonds. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for another 2 minutes to toast the almonds. Heat a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the cumin and coriander seeds. Toast for a few minutes, stirring constantly, until fragrant. Lightly crush in a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder. To plate, arrange a few slices of eggplant on a plate. Spoon some of the yogurt sauce over them, top with the onions and garnish with pomegranate seeds and toasted spices.

Château de Corbiac, Pécharmant, France

First off, the wine. This is a really nice Château to visit. There are a wide variety of wines to taste and the tasting room is set up in a professional manner. The woman who educated us about her family's wines was knowledgable, spoke some English, more than at many places we visited and it was a fun experience to taste the wine and to hear about their hopes and dreams for a bigger audience for their product in the future.

Second is the property itself. The Château is in the early phases of deterioration, with almost everything needing a bit of repair,b ut it is still quite beautiful, none-the-less, and the views are spectacular. Not that it would be encouraged but you really could spend half a day soaking up the atmosphere.

Then there is the legend. Our wine server links herself with Cyrano de Bergerac, not the one that Edmond Rosemund depicts, but rather the man whom the character is based on. He was apparently not from Bergerac, nor is it altogether clear why he was known for Bergerac, but as she tells it, this was his place and she is related to him. If you are in the neighborhood you must stop by.

Lest We Forget

The truth is that the 20th century was brutal and it happened first with WWI, with Europe decimating itself for nothing, only to do it all over again with WWII. The European Union, which linked everyone's fate together was th bright spot that opened the beginning of the 21st century, and with a few cracks in the outer edges, Hungary and Poland never really having a democratic past and buckling first under what is called nationalism, but is really totalitarianism in disguise, luring the easily manipulated into thinking it is all about them, when it is really about wealthy and powerful people becoming richer and taking away more and more civil rights. England went next, but hoefully that will be the sum of it, because we are about to live on a very hot planet that we will need to work together in order to save ourselves. So never forget.

La Belle Etoile, La Roque-Gageac, France

We stayed in La Roaque-Gageac, in an Airbnb apartment just over the hotel, so it would have been very convenient for dinner, but we were trying to eat just at lunch and avoid a heavy meal right before bedtime. One day we made an effort to see something nearby and come back in time for lunch and it was well worth the effort. The amuse bouche was a duck rillette that I really loved, and would have ordered another of had it actually been on the menu, and the bread was also very good.

My husband had oysteres as his starter, and I think he would say what I did about the rillette--even though cooked oysters are not his favorite, this dish was exquisite, and he could have made a whole meal just of this. I had a langostine ravioli dish that was equally fantastic.

This was the only place that we had lamb, and it was beautifully prepared and delicious. The meal ended well also, and I would definitely go back here, even if I wasn't staying nearby, the meal was that good. The only down side is that because it is also a hotel it is one of the few places where there were non-French tourists. We found throughout the trip that while we could often overhear what people were saying, when we understood less of what was being said, the happier we were, and that was certainly true here.

Whereabouts by Jhumpa Lahiri

This is a sparse novella, a collection of small stories that ends up being not very long in any direction. The chapters are short and they don't add up to much in length. The thing that is maybe most notable about them, other than are they thinly memoirs rather than actual fiction, is that the Bengali author who has written to much acclaim in English, is now writing exclusively in Italian. She has translated the book herself (which must be a bit of a trip to do so, moving from one acquired tongue to another), but apparently no longer writes in English. The novel portrays the lonely existence, in an unnamed place, of an unnamed narrator. We know she’s a woman and, in a rare concession to biographical detail, a university teacher, in her mid-40s. She has virtually no family, no relationship, just friends, who are also nameless and thinly characterized, with an element of projection: a married neighbor is, to her mind, ready to have an affair with her, while a female friend must, she imagines, be bored of marriage. And on it goes, wandering as one's mind does.

Monbazillac, Perigord Noir, France

Monbazillac is an AOC appellation for sweet wines made in an area in the wider region of Bergerac, in southwestern France. Not as famous nor as expensive as their neighbors from Sauternes, Monbazillac wines are still some of the more widely known French sweet white wines. They are produced from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. The vineyard area lies on the southern bank of the Dordogne river as it flows toward Bordeaux, surrounding the town of Monbazillac itselef.

Monbazillac's vineyards can be traced back to Benedictine monasteries in the 11th Century. The preoccupied monks are said to have neglected the vines for a time, finding them affected by noble rot. Not wanting to waste the harvest, they went ahead and made the wine, discovering that the rot had only improved the flavor. Viticulture has remained in the area ever since.

The best known property in the appellation is, not suprisingly, Château de Monbazillac. The house dates back to around 1550 and combines medieval and Renaissance influences. It is the home of the appellation's cooperative winery. You can taste wine there, as well as buy wine from the region. The wine is delicious and remarkably affordable.

This Lady Called Life (2020)

I watched this on a trans-Atlantic flight, and would likely not have watched it had I not been a captive audience. The real thing it has to offer is a glimpse at life in a working class African family. THe main character is Aiye, a single mother, who has dreams of becoming a professional and recognised chef. But for Aiye, life isn’t that simple. She has to wrestle with raising her four-year-old son alone, has been kicked out of her house by her mother, and barely keeps her head above water. Yet no matter how terribly her family treats her, they expect her to come home at any hint of trouble. It is hard to eatch, and while things do get better for Aiye, they are not altogether great, and I ended up feeling slightly dissatisfied at the end.

Bergerac, Perigord Noir, France

Bergerac is the largest city on the Dordogne river. It is known for its corbelled rooves, and it is a wine growing region. The Bergerac region has 13 appellations, and each one with its own inflections and personality. Rosé, red, dry or sweet white and dessert wine are all made in this region, and it’s the only one in France with a 50-50 split between red and white. There are more châteaux and caves than you could hope to incorporate into a short stay, and Bergerac would be my choice for a home base if I were to return.

The river itself is just as beautiful here as it is in more picturesque parts of the region. There is no shortage of places to sit on the banks and read, or rent a canoe and get in.

Don't miss the half-timbered houses, like Maison Gaudra on Rue des Fontaines dating from the 1300s. It is quite near the tasting room for the region, which is not only a beautifully restored building but also a place to buy the wine that you taste.

A Passage North by Anuk Arudpragasam

This book has been short listed for the Booker Prize this year, and it's author, a Sri Lankan of Tamil heritage, has set this book in his homeland. The island of Sri Lanka was divided by a terrible civil war for almost thirty years. It had its roots in an ethnic conflict between the island’s largely Buddhist, Sinhala-speaking population in the south and the Tamil minority in the north. In 2009 the war came to a bloody and unexpected end when Sri Lankan government forces attacked and overwhelmed the rebel-held north. This story focuses on the ongoing gap between north and south, and the trauma that war leaves behind, how that ripples out across genreations and communities, and how it is very hard to move beyond it, much less forget. The writing is so sparse as to seem clinical or precise when the content seems like it should be more emotional, but perhaps it is better to be dispassionate because it hits harder. I found myself a bit confused about how I felt about the book when I finished it, but have continued to think about it since so I would call it a success.

Le Bistro d'en Face, Bergerac, Perigord Noir, France

Thisis also a Bib Gourmand restaurant, but in many ways it was the opposite of Ò Plaisir Des Sens. While the later is reaching for a star, this place is ever so happy to be right where they are. The meals are beautifully prepared, generous in portions, but the service is casual and fun. One of our servers lughed out loud and another apolgized when he forgot to put in our coffee order but was not devestated by the mistake. It is joyful to be in a place like this, where the food knocks your socks off and no one has to be too high brow.

We had fois gas as a starter, and it was very traditionally prepared and presented, a mammoth portion indeed. The other starter was octopus, which the restaurant is noted for it's presentation of, and it was also quite delicious. I was unable to finish my fish main course, and took it home and had it for dinner instead. The cheese plate was another standout, serving local cheeses, and I would highly recommend the restaurant--and Bergerac seemed like it could be a good city to make your home base if you wanted to be in a town.