Saturday, September 2, 2023
Dirt by Bill Buford
This book opens unevenly--even though I read and enjoyed his book about his experience as a chef in Tuscany, and was inclined to like this as well, I did not like the opening chapters at all. The author is perhaps trying to draw the reader in, but it put me off--so if you feel the same, soldier on, this is worth reading.
Buford has a way of making his dreams materialize, so when he decides that he wants to experience the French kitchen in an upscale way, he goes about making it happen. He travels to the culinary capital of France, the city of Lyon, with his wife and young children to make it happen. His immersion is largely in a rarefied world of high craft, one concerned with “paintings on a plate”, recondite flavors and ingredients touched by dozens of fingers. This is the world of the tyrannical Michelin guide and of aspirants to its stellar approbation. Many aspire, few achieve: and those who do are often bankrupted by the effort to keep up the appearances demanded of them.
He explores a number of fascinations throughout the book, mostly related to haute cuisine: the snout to tail dishes that use all of the animal, the origins of French cuisine, mastering the art of several dishes, and learning more about terroir and what that is all about. If you love food, this is well worth looking into, and if you love French food, in all it's variations, this will pique your interest, and maybe more.
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