Emmer Mushroom Pilaf

Our cookbook club selection is A Taste of Persia by Naomi Duguid, who has been writing cookbooks for about 20 years that are largely centered on Asia. We cooked a series of things out of it over a long weekend, and this one was good, but I thought it needed more mushroom flavor, and would rehydrate a porcini mushrom and add the liquid to boost it up a bit. We did the no meat option. ■ 2 Tbsp. sunflower or vegetable oil ■ 2 Tbsp. ghee or butter (or 1 Tbsp. margarine) ■ 2 medium onions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup) ■ 225 gr. (½ lb.) ground beef or lamb (optional) ■ 225 gr. (½ lb.) mushrooms, chopped or sliced thin – brown, button or portobello (about 4 cups) (or 110 gr. or ¼ lb. mushrooms if using meat) ■ 2 tsp. dried thyme ■ 1 cup (scant 225 gr. or ½ lb.) emmer, farro or other wheat berries, washed well and drained (or soaked; see note) ■ 2½ cups water or light broth ■ 1½ tsp. sea salt, or to taste (less if using salted broth) ■ Generous grinding of black pepper ■ 2 to 3 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon or mint Optional accompaniments: ■About 2 cups plain thick yogurt, lightly salted (if not using meat) ■Plate of fresh herbs such as basil, coriander, mint, fenugreek, parsley, dill and green onions Place a wide, heavy skillet or heavy pot over medium heat. Add oil and butter; when butter melts, swirl to coat pan. Toss in onions and cook until translucent. Add meat, mushrooms and thyme, and cook, stirring occasionally, until meat has changed color and mushrooms are starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Add wheat berries and water or broth and bring to a boil. Add salt and return to a boil. Lower heat slightly to maintain a strong boil and cook for 5 minutes. Cover pan, lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes, or until emmer is very tender and cooked through; regular wheat berries (prepared following note below) may take longer. The finished dish should be slightly soupy, like a very thick risotto. Taste and add salt if needed, and the pepper. Stir in tarragon. Serve hot or warm, with yogurt and an herb plate, if you like. Note: If you can’t find emmer or farro, try to get soft wheat berries. If using regular wheat berries, soak them for an hour or so, then briefly pulse in a food processor to help crack them and thus speed cooking.