Lobio With Onions Pomegranate

This is adapted from naoim Duguid's book Tate of Persia, which our cookbook group cooked from last month. Throughout the cookbook, I think it could use more context, and hacks that you could use in a western kitchen. In this recipe, using beans that become quite creamy when cooked or overcooked is a good tip--mine were not this, and the dish was good, but I think it could veer to greatness as a vegan side. The Georgian spice mix has corainder, fenugreek leaves, and marigold petals--or you can pick up a mix at Trader Joe's if those are not in your spice cupboard. 4 cups cooked beans plus 1 1/2 cups cooking water 2 bay leaves 1/4 c. vegetable oil 1 1/2 cups chopped onions 1 red pepper, chopped 6 cloves garlic minced 1 tablespoon dried chilis 2 Tbs. Georgian Spice Mix 2 Tbs. tomato paste 2 Tbs. pomeranate molasses 1/4 cup red wine salt to taste top with chopped herbs Cook the beans and water with the bay leaves--or add bay leaves when rehydrating the beans to start with. Add oil, onions to a saute pan and cook until the onions are sweated--add the garlic and cook until the onions are translucent. Then add the chilis, Georgian spice, and tomato paste and stir. Add the beans and as much of the liquid as you would like to the pan, plus the pomegranate molassess and the wine and cook 5-10 minues or so.

Asada--The Art of Mexican-Style Grilling by Biria Lopez

This is a cookbook selection for my cookbook group, and it has been quite a while since I have cooked out of a cookbook that was this popular in my household. The authors are from Oaxaca and their first cookbook covers that regional Mexican food. This is largely about grilled food, and it is exceptional. The marinades are the true highlights, where the protein is marinated in a flavorful sauce, and usually for a pretty short period of time, so that if you made it ahead of time, it was an easy midweek meal. The three version of rice: white, red, and green--the colors of the flag of Mexico--and they are all stellar. The salsas are on the hot side, but the hotter chilies could be subbed for less hot chilies and the six we have tried are all very flavor. They use avocado oil in their flour tortillas based on the ones made by Carmelo's in Lawrence, KS, which are the best commercial flour tortillas I have had. I recommend this highly, and even if you have a robust Mexican food section in your cookbook collection, this one should have a place on your shelf.

Carne Asada

We have just been cooking like crazy out of Bricia Lopez' new cookbook, Asada--The Art Of Mexican Grilling,and this is yet another example of how wonderful this book is! Even our beef avoidant child loved this, and wondered why there wasn't more left over. 3/4 cup (6 ounces) dark Mexican ale 1/2 cup fresh orange juice 1/4 cup fresh lime juice 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil, divided 6 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons plus 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt, divided 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 2 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 teaspoon Mexican oregano 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 10 spring onions or 15 scallions, divided 2 pounds flap steak, patted dry (See Note) 1 small white onion, thinly sliced (about 1 3/4 cups) 2 serrano chiles, stemmed and halved lengthwise 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro Whisk together Mexican ale, orange juice, lime juice, 1/4 cup oil, garlic, 2 tablespoons salt, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, oregano, paprika, cumin, and cloves in a large bowl until spices are evenly incorporated. Trim 4 spring onions or 6 scallions, and cut in half lengthwise. Using the palm of your hand against a flat work surface, lightly smash spring onions until a little moisture is released. Combine smashed spring onions, flap steak, white onion, chiles, cilantro, and ale mixture in a large ziplock plastic bag. Seal bag, and shake to thoroughly mix; gently massage marinade into steak. Chill at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours. Remove steak from marinade, and pat dry using paper towels; discard marinade. Place steak on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat grill to very high (500°F to 550°F). Place steak on lightly oiled grates. Grill, uncovered, until lightly charred in spots and a thermometer inserted in thickest portion of steak registers 125°F for medium-rare, 3 to 5 minutes per side, or to desired degree of doneness. Transfer steak to a cutting board, and let rest 5 minutes. Meanwhile, trim remaining 6 spring onions or 11 scallions; toss with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl until well coated. Place spring onions on oiled grates, and grill, uncovered, turning occasionally, until softened and lightly charred, 4 to 6 minutes. Slice steak against the grain; serve with grilled spring onions, warm tortillas, and salsa. Note To substitute skirt steak for flap steak, marinate at least 8 hours or up to 12 hours.

Salsa Borracha Ribs

Another winning recipe from Bricia Lopez' cookbook Asada. We did the slow cooking part in the oven and finished on the grill. Really excellent. FOR THE RUB: 2 tbsp of sweet pimentón (can substitute smoked paprika) 1½ tbsp of garlic powder 1 tbsp of sea salt 1 tbsp of onion powder 2½ tsp of ancho chilli powder 1 tsp of freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp of dried oregano ½ tsp of dried thyme 2 racks of St Louis-style pork ribs, trimmed (2.3-3.2kg) FOR THE SAUCE: 300ml of tomato sauce 140g of chipotle in adobo 1 medium white onion, ¾ quartered and ¼ minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tbsp of olive oil 120ml of distilled white vinegar 75ml of Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp of dark brown sugar 2 tbsp of Tabasco hot sauce 1 tbsp of tomato paste 1 tbsp of sea salt 360ml of dark Mexican beer Method STEP 1 Make the rub, whisk together all the pimentón, garlic powder, salt, onion powder, ancho chilli powder, pepper, oregano and thyme. STEP 2 Place the ribs in a shallow pan and generously rub the spice mix all over the racks of ribs, on both sides. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. STEP 3 While the ribs are marinating, make the sauce: in a blender, add the ingredients, including some of the chipotle adobo sauce. Blend until smooth and set aside. STEP 4 Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the minced onion and stir until translucent and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Carefully add the blended tomato sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium heat and cook until it has reduced by a third, about 10 minutes. Add the vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, Tabasco, tomato paste, and salt and stir to combine. Lower the heat and continue to cook for another 20 minutes, until the sauce has thickened. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. STEP 5 Preheat your grill to 135°C if using a pellet grill. If you don’t have a pellet smoker, you can use your oven for this step. STEP 6 On a work surface, spread out 2 large sheets of aluminium foil on top of each other (big enough to wrap each of the racks individually). Working one at a time, remove a rack of ribs from the fridge and place it on top of a piece of foil. Pour about half of the cooled sauce over the top and wrap the ribs in the foil, pleating the edges so the package seals well. Repeat with the second rack. STEP 7 Place the ribs in the middle of your preheated grill or oven, meat side up, and cook for 3 hours--this can be done in a 275 degree oven instead. After 3 hours, carefully uncover the ribs. Reserve 240ml of sauce in a serving bowl for dipping later. Liberally brush the ribs with the rest of the sauce. Cover the ribs again and allow to cook for 1 more hour. STEP 8 Remove the ribs and prepare your grill for hot direct cooking. Make sure the grates are clean. If using a pellet grill, raise to high heat and crisp your ribs for about 4 minutes on each side, until the ribs are fall-apart tender and really saucy. If using a pellet grill, remove the ribs, carefully remove the grill grate using two tongs and grilling gloves, and add more charcoal until you reach a higher temperature, and place the ribs back on the grill to crisp up then. STEP 9 Once the ribs are crispy, using either two spatulas or a spatula and tongs, remove the ribs to a platter and serve right away, with the leftover sauce on the side. The ribs may be so tender, that they will shred when you try to serve yourself.

Salsa de Piña Tatemada

We are loving cooking from Bricia Lopez' new cookbook called Asada: The Art Of Mexican Grilling--although we are taking the heat down several notches. This was a bif hit at a multiple protein grilled dinner we cooked. 3 garlic cloves, peeled 1 medium-size red onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups) 1 medium (about 3-pound) pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices 2 fresh serrano chiles, stemmed 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh parsley Preheat grill to high (450°F to 500°F). Place garlic cloves and onion on 2 separate pieces of aluminum foil; fold each to create sealed packets. Place packets directly on grill grate; cook, uncovered, turning occasionally, until garlic and onion have softened, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place pineapple slices and chiles on oiled grates. Grill, uncovered, until pineapple is well marked, flipping once, 3 to 5 minutes per side, and skin on chiles is evenly charred, flipping often, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, and let cool 5 minutes. Chop pineapple into 1/4-inch pieces and garlic and chiles to a mince, and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in grilled onion and lime juice. Set aside. Add chile paste to bowl with pineapple mixture. Stir in parsley, and season with additional salt to taste.

Guajillo Grilled Chicken

The cookbook for Food 52's cookbook club this July is Bricia Lopez' Asada: THe Art of Mexican Grilling, and this is one of the first recipes we tried. I really loved the fruity flavor that the guajillo chiles added to the meat. We served sliced up as tacos alongside an excellent Arroz Rojo from the same cookbook. 12 guajillo chillies (50g/1¾oz), stems and seeds removed ½ large white onion (150g/5¼oz), roughly chopped 8 cloves garlic, peeled ¼ tsp black peppercorns (about 12 peppercorns) 1 whole clove 1 tbsp dried Mexican oregano 2 tbsp grapeseed oil ¼ cup (60ml) orange juice 2 tbsp seasoned rice vinegar 2 tbsp fresh lime juice ¼ tsp ground cinnamon 1½ tbsp sea salt 910g (2lb) bone-in chicken thighs In a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, lightly toast the chillies, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the skillet and set aside. In the same skillet, add the onion and garlic, turning once or twice until they are lightly charred, about 10 minutes. Remove from the skillet and set aside. Add the peppercorns, clove, and dried oregano to the pan and lightly toast until they are aromatic, about 2 minutes. Transfer the toasted spices and oregano to a molcajete or spice grinder and grind until finely ground. In a high-performance blender or food processor, add the toasted chillies, onion, garlic, ground spices and oregano, oil, orange juice, rice vinegar, lime juice, cinnamon, and salt. Blend until most of the chillies have come apart. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Using a gallon-size resealable bag, add the marinade and the chicken. Seal and let sit in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Remove the chicken thighs in their marinade from the fridge to allow them to reach room temperature before grilling.

Chocolate Orange Sablés

These may be a cookie with more moisture in them than the traditional cookie, but they are really good and not impossible to make. 1 cup [227 g] unsalted butter at room temperature 1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar 1 tablespoon [3 g] orange zest 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 large egg yolk at room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour 1/4 cup [32 g] finely chopped candied orange peel 1/4 cup [43 g] semisweet mini chocolate chips 1 cup [200 g] turbinado sugar or sanding sugar In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated sugar, orange zest, and salt, and beat again on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the bowl and add the egg yolk and vanilla, and mix on low speed until incorporated. Add the flour and mix on low speed until just combined. Add the candied orange peel and chocolate chips and mix again until combined. Transfer the dough to a workspace and form the dough into a 12 inch [30.5 cm] long log. Place the log on a large piece of plastic, a few inches longer than the log. Sprinkle the turbinado sugar over each side of the log, covering the outside of the dough. Gently press the sugar into the dough with your hands. Wrap the log in plastic and refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours. Position the oven rack in the middle of the oven, and preheat the oven to 350F [180C]. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper. Using a serrated knife, slice the dough log into ¼ inch [6mm], and place the rounds about 2 inches [5 cm] apart on the prepared pans. Bake, one batch at a time, until the edges are very light golden brown and the centers are still pale, 14 to 16 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Move the pans to wire racks and let cool completely. Store in an airtight container.

Buttery Crab Pasta

This recipe is from Melissa Clark, who's cookbook Dinner in French came out early in the pandemic. Unfortunately, at that point we were mostly perfecting our homemade pizza, and having troulbe sourcing simple things like flour and yeast, so bucatini and crab were definitely not on offer. This is an excellent use of high quality crab, and stretches it to feed a crowd. It also comes together in under 30 minutes, to the point where you can do the prep work while the water is boiling and the pasta is cooking. Fine sea salt, as needed 8 ounces bucatini or linguine 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving 2 cups halved golden or red cherry tomatoes 1 scallion (white and green parts), thinly sliced 1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes, plus more to taste ½ cup fresh chervil leaves, divided Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Juice of ½ lemon Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 ounces lump crabmeat, picked over to remove any stray shells Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving Flaky sea salt, for serving Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente (usually a minute or two less than the package directs). Reserve 1 cup of the pasta water and drain the pasta. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Whisk in ½ cup of the pasta water and the Parmesan. Then stir in the tomatoes, scallion, red pepper flakes and a large pinch of salt and simmer for 1 minute. Stir in the pasta, ¼ cup of the chervil, the lemon zest and juice, and black pepper to taste; toss until warmed through. Gently fold in the crabmeat. Remove the skillet from the heat and serve the crab pasta sprinkled with Parmesan, the remaining ¼ cup chervil, a drizzle of olive oil and flaky sea salt to taste.

Mi Cocina by Rick Martinez

When I read this cookbook I did not know the origin story of why this chef and food writer had enough time on his hands to spend a year traveling through Mexico, collecting the very best food that each region has to offer. He was a senior food editor at Bon Appetit and rumor has it that he asked for equitable pay and treatment, and when that didn't go his way, he hit the road--literally--and this book is the result. Several things to say about this book. One is that the recipes are well written, spectacular, and easy to follow. He has included the measurements of all the ingredients by both volume and weight, making everyone happy. And, as he correctly points out, "one Jalapeno" can be vastly different in both size and weight, and since there is heat invcolved, precision is at least a helpful start. He also is a proponent of add some, taste, and adjust. You cannot take it out but you can add it. The book is organized by regions, which I love because that is also how I think about Mexico, but it may not suit everyone. In my mind, a regional cookbook is meant to teach you something that you might not know about a place or a cuisine, but it is possible not everyone agrees and the organization might seem a hindrance. Finally, there are vibrant pictures, lots of stories, and what the food looks like is pictured throughout. All of which I loved. This book is well worth reading as well as cooking out of!

Cook Real Hawai'i by Sheldon Simeon

I have relatively recently been on a kick where I actually read the cookbook cover to cover before I actually make anything, which has been both educational and fun. This is no exception, unless you know a lot about Hawaii both culturally and regional differences. The author grew up on the big island, went to culinary school on Oahu, and has his restaurants on Maui. This is not 'typical' Hawaiian food but rather the local Hawai‘i food that the author feeds his ohana, his family and neighbors. The recipes are uncomplicated and flavor-forward and demonstrate the many cultures that have come to create the cuisine of his beloved home: the native Hawaiian traditions, Japanese influences, Chinese cooking techniques, and dynamic Korean, Portuguese, and Filipino flavors that are closest to his heart. The majority of the recipes are different from what most of us are used to eat daily, there's a solid chance you have most of the stuff you need already on hand. Most ingredients can be found in a well-stocked grocery store, with just a few items requiring a trip to your nearest Asian market. Besides this, all the recipes are relatively easy to do and can be done in just a few steps. And never fear, there is Spam, macaroni salad, and condensed cream of mushroom soup contained within.

Black Food by Bryant Terry

It is really hard for me to put my finger on exactly how to categorize this book. I came to read it because it is the March cookbook featured in my Food 52 cookbook club, and while there are recipes in it, that is almost incidental to the rest of the book, which is about black food and the African diaspora. The author, who is more of an editor, is the popular Black vegan chef Bryant Terry, who’s based in Oakland and highly involved in education, healing, and activism. The book contains a chorus of more than 100 Black voices in and about the food world. It is a detailed collection of essays, poetry, art, and recipes. All told, it is an ambitious account of Black food across continents and past and present. Terry has a master’s in history, and this book does border on the academic, digging into the culinary history of the African diaspora; but it’s also as varied as the profusion of voices it contains, from restaurant chefs to food writers to artists. It is an experience wrapped around food and what it means, as seen through a black lens.

Roasted Squash with Spicy Greens

This was flat out amazing. I served with the yogurt on the side because vegans were involved, but you could serve with a plant based yogurt, or skip altogether. 1½ pounds butternut squash ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning 1 bunch baby spinach or Tuscan kale 1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar ¼ cup untoasted sesame seeds ¼ cup hulled sunflower seeds ¼ cup pumpkin seeds ½ teaspoon mustard seeds (any color) ¾ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes ¾ cup Greek yogurt Preheat the oven to 500°F with a rack in the lowest position. Starting at the neck end and continuing to the belly end of the squash, cut squash crosswise into ½-inch-thick rounds, then scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Transfer the squash to a large rimmed baking sheet and drizzle generously with oil, turning to coat. Season both sides with salt, then arrange in a single layer. Roast on the bottom rack until the squash is tender and lightly browned around edges, 15 minutes (I don't even bother turning it, preferring to get one side as dark as possible). While the squash roasts, use your hands to strip the kale leaves from the stems, then cut leaves crosswise into ¼-inch-wide ribbons. Wash and dry the leaves, then transfer to a large bowl. Drizzle vinegar over, then toss to coat. Stir together ⅓ cup oil, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, mustard seeds, and 1 teaspoon salt in a small skillet or saucepan. Place over medium-high heat and cook, swirling the skillet often, until the seeds are golden brown and starting to pop, about 3 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, quickly stir in the red pepper flakes, and immediately pour oil mixture over the kale—there will be a bit of spattering as the hot oil hits the moisture on the leaves, so take care with this step. Toss to combine. Spoon the yogurt onto a platter. Top with the roasted squash, then pile the sizzled greens on top.

Ruby Chicken

This is the version of Chicken Tickka Masala from the ravishing new cookbook Dishoom. I really like it and am only sorry that my youngest son, who has only a handful of dishes that he truly loves, thinks this is inferior to the Madhur Jaffrey version that he prefers. 700g skinless, boneless chicken thighs 20g unsalted butter, melted 50ml double cream For the makhani sauce 35g garlic (7–8 cloves) 175ml vegetable oil 20g fresh root ginger 800g chopped tomatoes (fresh or good-quality tinned) 2 bay leaves 6 green cardamom pods 2 black cardamom pods 2 cinnamon sticks 2 tsp fine sea salt 1½ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder 30g butter 1 tsp garam masala 20g granulated sugar 1 tbsp runny honey 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp kasoori methi powder, crushed to a powder between your fingers ½ tsp fresh dill fronds 80ml double cream Advertisement For the marinade 10g chopped fresh ginger 20g chopped garlic 5g fine sea salt 1 tsp deggi mirch chilli powder 1½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp garam masala 2 tsp lime juice 2 tsp vegetable oil 75g full-fat greek yoghurt For the garnish Ginger matchsticks Coriander leaves, chopped 1 tbsp pomegranate seeds First make the makhani sauce. Peel and finely dice 15g of the garlic. Warm a large saucepan over a medium-high heat and add the oil. Toss in the chopped garlic and fry until light golden brown and slightly crisp – about seven to eight minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Grate the remaining garlic and the ginger to a fine paste on a microplane (or grind in a mortar). Using a blender, blitz the chopped tomatoes to a fine consistency. Put the saucepan containing the oil back on a medium-high heat and add the bay leaves, green and black cardamom pods, and the cinnamon sticks. Let them crackle for one minute, stirring regularly, then turn down the heat and add the garlic and ginger paste. Cook for five minutes, allowing the paste to brown but not burn. Add the tomatoes, salt and chilli powder to the pan. Bring to a rapid simmer and cook until reduced by half, stirring regularly so it doesn’t catch – this should take about 30 minutes. Add the butter and simmer for a further five minutes. Add the garam masala, sugar, honey, cumin, crisp garlic, kasoori methi powder and dill fronds, and cook for a further 15 minutes. Add the cream and simmer gently for five minutes. The sauce is now ready to use. For the marinade, blitz all the ingredients to a smooth paste, then transfer to a bowl. Cut the chicken into 4cm chunks, add to the marinade and turn to coat. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for six to 24 hours. Heat the grill to medium-high. Put the marinated chicken on a rack in the grill pan, brush with the melted butter and grill for eight to 10 minutes, until cooked through and nicely charred. To finish, warm a large saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the makhani sauce, cream and grilled chicken, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes. Serve the curry garnished with ginger matchsticks, chopped coriander and pomegranate seeds, with a bowl of steamed rice on the side.

Shrimp Scampi A La Alex

The author of Cook With Me serves this with bread to sop up the sauce, whereas I pour it over a pound of pasta, adding a bit of the pasta water to make it the appropriate amount of sauciness. The add ons this recipe has over what I normally make with scampi is the dashes of both hot sauce (on top of the red pepper flakes) and the Worcestershire sacue--both of which are nice additions that I will add to my mental recipe of this classic dish--which I am sure would be good with just bread as well. 1 1/2 teaspoons plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs 1 lb. shrimp Kosher salt 2 tablespoons canola oil 2 large cloves garlic, grated on a rasp 3/4 cup dry white wine 2 dashes Worcestershire sauce 2 dashes hot sauce, such as Tabasco 1 large lemon, zested and halved 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes Melt 1 1/2 teaspoons butter in a small skillet over medium-high heat, then add the panko and cook, stirring constantly, until the breadcrumbs are golden and toasty-scented, about 2 minutes. Set aside. Sprinkle the shrimp on both sides with salt. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the canola oil. When the oil begins to smoke lightly, quickly arrange the shrimp in a single layer, with a little space between each. Brown the shrimp on their first sides, adding a couple of pieces of the butter around the shrimp to add flavor as they brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the shrimp on their second sides and brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Quickly transfer the shrimp to a plate. Return the skillet to medium heat. Add the remaining butter and the garlic to the skillet. Press the garlic into the melting butter to break up any clumps. Add the wine and stir up the brown bits in the bottom of the skillet. Add the Worcestershire, hot sauce and lemon zest. Simmer until the garlic softens and the wine reduces down to a lush sauce, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the parsley and squeeze the juice from half a lemon into the sauce. Return the shrimp to the skillet and sprinkle with the red pepper flakes. Toss the shrimp in the sauce to coat well. Remove the skillet from the heat. Sprinkle the shrimp with some more lemon juice and the toasted panko and transfer to a platter. Serve with crusty bread, if using.

This Will Make It Taste Good by Vivian Howard

There are some very annoying aspects to this cookbook, but do not let that get in the way of enjoying what the author presents. She has some master sauces that she has you make up, some of them requiring that they set for a bit, and others are useable right away. They are flavor power houses, each of them, which you then use as the flavor foundation for a dish. Some of them, which she calls "no brainers", are straighforward and can easily be done in minutes, leveraging the work of putting the mother sauce together to have a complex flavored dish in minutes, and then there are actual recipes that require a bit more time and attention, but again use these pre-constructed sauces. The two that are herb forward sauces are excellent--the Little Green Dress taking quite a bit of time to assemble, but then you can use it over and over again. Same with the tomato pepper relish called Red Weapons. Her version of the herb pesto comes together quickly, and the carmelized onions take forever, but we already know that! I reccommend this for cooks who don't mind spending a weekend day putting the master sauces together and reaping the benefits as the week goes forward.

Pickled Tomatoes and Peppers

This recipe is yet another master sauce from her cookbook This Will Make It Taste Good. This is one that she sells in a jarred form, so if you are short on refridgerator space or just not up for the challenge, you can still try them. They are then used in a multitude of ways as a flavoring agent. That is the focus of the cookbook, that you spend some time putting together something that is very highly flavored and then you can use it to make things that are easy peasy (which she calls no brainers--do not get me started on how silly the wording in this cookbook is, but the ideas are very solid) or you can use it in something that is a bit more like traditional cooking,b ut this is the flavoring agent. 2 pounds plum tomatoes, cut into quarters lengthwise 1 bunch scallions, sliced thin 5 jalapeños, sliced into thin rings 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 3 tablespoons minced garlic 1½ tablespoons Brown Mustard Seeds 1½ tablespoons Cumin Powder 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1½ teaspoons Spicewalla Cayenne Chilli Powder 1½ teaspoons Spicewalla Turmeric ½ cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar ¾ cup white wine vinegar ¾ cup packed light brown sugar 1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil Put your tomatoes in a large, wide, heatproof bowl that is plenty large enough to hold all the ingredients. I like to assemble and start to “pickle” my weapons there on the counter, letting their flavors marry as they cool down. Then, once they’re mixed together and have reached room temperature, I transfer them to smaller containers suitable for the fridge. (This recipe is sized to just barely fit into two quart-size mason jars, but you may have a little extra. While you can try to pull it all together directly in the jars, that might just be a big mess waiting to happen.) In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, bring all the ingredients except for the tomatoes and the olive oil to a boil over medium heat. Let it boil for 1 minute. Then add the olive oil and bring back to a boil. Immediately pour over the tomatoes in the big bowl, pressing them down to make sure they are submerged. Let the tomatoes and the liquid cool to room temperature without the aid of an ice bath or anything to speed the process along. If you’ve got room in your fridge, the big bowl can go in there. But if the weapons sit out at room temperature overnight, that’s totally fine. The more slowly they cool down, the more quickly they will pickle. Once they’ve cooled, transfer the weapons to jars and refrigerate for a minimum of 3 days or up to 3 months.

This Will Make It Taste Good by Vivian Howard

This is the follow up cookbook by the author of one of the best southern cookbooks I have seen, Deep Run Roots, which has a chapter on collard greens, one on watermelon, and one on blueberries, to name a few. It is straight ahead, written without either humor or nonsense. This one is another story entirely. The concept is great--spend some time making some master ingredients, and then use them to make a multitude of dishes that are flavor packed because you have spent time punching it up, so it can be then diluted into something else. I have made the two green sauces, and will make a few others. The outcome is really good, but the thing that I have trouble getting past is how cutsie all the names are. It is particularly irksome when posting on social media about the recipe, because while the end result is delicious, it sounds so sill y that I want to avoid it all together. It is a shame, because the end results are innovative and taste good. If you can overlook this, or better yet, if you can enjoy it, then I recoomend this cookbook.

Simply Julia by Julia Turshen

I am slowly warming to this cookbook, which was wildly popular with our Food 52 Cookbook group. The great thing about having a group of above average to excellent cooks all focusing on the same cookbook at one time is that you get some great ideas about what recipes to try yourself. The premise of this is that you are cooking on a week night and you want to put food on the table quickly that tastes more complex than the time you have devoted to it would ordinarily render it. There is a lot to be said for this approach, and having a book that does that and nothing else is definitely worth some space on your shelf. There are several of everything. For example, a number of different meatball options, and you can sub the ground meat you have. There are several dressings that are unusual and dump and shake and dress and serve. I found the soy based one too salty, but my gut told me it would be, and I would try it again with less tamari. There is something for every meal of the day, including dessert, and there is some snack food/appetizer options. The writing style is breeezy without being irritating, and as more people try things from this in my cookbook club, I am likely to return to it more often than I have cooked from it so far. If you are looking for easy peasy, give this one a whirl.

Mister Jiu's in Chinatown by Brandon Jew

I think this is an amazing compendium of the story and the process of cooking at one of the most iconic Chinese American restaurants in San Francisco, which is the most iconic Chinatown's in the United States--second only to Vancouver in North America. The restaurant has a wonderful window onto the street where you can watch dumplings being hand made, and with that, you know that you are in for a treat. I have only eaten there once right before the pandemic, and for drinks and appetizers only, but the food and the atmosphere are enough to bring me back. The recipes are largely both complex and detailed. My Food 52 cookbook group did this last month, and the people who dove right in, expecting each recipe to be a project rather than a breeze, were the happiest. We plan to do some longer term exploration of the recipes, but the story that is told (which is about a third of the book) is well worth reading as well.

Shaved Cauliflower and Farro Salad

This salad should not be made on a week night, or when you are in a hurry. It has lots of steps and relies on patience. Sometimes I think a restaurant shares it's recipes because they want you to realize that you should just go there and order it rather than spending all day making it at home, and this seems to fall into that category. The pandemic has taught us that just going to the restaurant just isn't that simple right now, and so we try some of these things at home. PICKLED FRESNO CHILES 8 Fresno chiles, seeds removed, sliced into 1/8-inch rounds 2 teaspoons sugar 1½ tablespoons kosher salt ½ cup red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1. In a medium bowl, toss the sliced chiles with the sugar and salt. Set aside for 30 minutes. 2. Add the red wine vinegar and olive oil, cover and let sit at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours, or until the chiles have reached the desired flavor. This makes a generous 1 ½ cups pickled chiles, more than is needed for the remainder of the recipe. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. RED WINE VINAIGRETTE 1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot ¼ cup red wine vinegar ½ teaspoon kosher salt Pinch freshly ground black pepper ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil In a medium bowl, combine the shallot and red wine vinegar. Set aside for 10 minutes. Add the salt and pepper, then drizzle in the olive oil while whisking to combine. This makes about ¾ cup vinaigrette, more than is needed for the remainder of the recipe. The vinaigrette will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 1 week; whisk before using. AVOCADO PURÉE 1 avocado 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons champagne vinegar 2 teaspoons toasted pine nuts 1 teaspoon fish sauce, preferably Red Boat brand ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup chopped parsley 1 clove garlic, very finely grated 1 teaspoon lemon juice In a blender jar, combine the avocado, oil, vinegar, pine nuts, fish sauce, salt, parsley and lemon juice and purée until smooth. Add a tablespoon of water at a time until consistency is smooth. This makes about 1 ½ cups avocado purée, which will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 2 days. FARRO 2 cups farro 1 rib celery, cut in half 1 small carrot, cut in half 3 fresh bay leaves or 1 dry 1 Fresno chile, halved lengthwise ½ yellow onion, quartered 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 quarts water 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1. In a medium saucepot, combine the farro, celery, carrot, bay leaves, Fresno chile, onion, salt and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook uncovered, skimming off any foam that forms, for 30 to 40 minutes or until the farro is cooked but still has a firm, chewy texture. Remove the pot from the heat and set aside for 10 minutes before straining. 2. Line a sheet tray with parchment and spread the strained farro out into an even layer and, using tongs, pick out all of the vegetables and aromatics and discard. Drizzle the farro with the olive oil and toss. This makes about 6 cups farro which will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 3 days. FARRO SALAD WITH CAULIFLOWER AND AVOCADO CREAM 2 cups prepared farro ¼ cup toasted pine nuts 2 tablespoons finely diced red onion ¼ cup chopped mint 2 tablespoons rough-chopped parsley Prepared red wine vinaigrette 12 whole mint leaves 16 slices of prepared pickled Fresno chile Salt and pepper to taste ¼ cauliflower, thinly shaved with a mandolin 1 ounce Montasio cheese (or Parmigiano or Capra Sarda), shaved Prepared Avocado cream 1. In a bowl, combine the farro, pine nuts, diced red onion, chopped mint and parsley and drizzle with red wine vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper, and toss until ingredients are all incorporated. Do not over mix. Place on a plate. 2. In a separate bowl, combine the shaved cauliflower and avocado purée and season to taste. Make sure the cauliflower is completely covered with the purée. 3. Pile the cauliflower on top of the plated farro and garnish with the whole mint leaves, pickled Fresno chile and shaved cheese.