Latinísimo by Sandra Gutierrez

My on line cookbook group is cooking out of this book this month, and I am surprised by a number of things about it. The first is that I did not know this book had been published--it is a relatively comprehensive cookbook covering all 21 Latin countries in the Americas. That is both its strength and its weakness. Do you need to own it? I would say yes--I have been going to Central and South America since I was a child, and I have been an avid home cook for almost 50 years and there were many things that I learned about the region and the cuisine from reading this book. There is a lot of information about the differences in cuisine across the region, including the kinds of peppers and what you can do with them that are worth the price of admission. The downside is that while it is almost unliftable in weight, it lacks depth into any particular cuisine--that it unsurprising, but this is not the be all and end all of Latin American cooking--rather it is an excellent starting point and one that should be explored. It is available on used book sites for under $10 and well worth it.

Asada--The Art of Mexican-Style Grilling by Biria Lopez

This is a cookbook selection for my cookbook group, and it has been quite a while since I have cooked out of a cookbook that was this popular in my household. The authors are from Oaxaca and their first cookbook covers that regional Mexican food. This is largely about grilled food, and it is exceptional. The marinades are the true highlights, where the protein is marinated in a flavorful sauce, and usually for a pretty short period of time, so that if you made it ahead of time, it was an easy midweek meal. The three version of rice: white, red, and green--the colors of the flag of Mexico--and they are all stellar. The salsas are on the hot side, but the hotter chilies could be subbed for less hot chilies and the six we have tried are all very flavor. They use avocado oil in their flour tortillas based on the ones made by Carmelo's in Lawrence, KS, which are the best commercial flour tortillas I have had. I recommend this highly, and even if you have a robust Mexican food section in your cookbook collection, this one should have a place on your shelf.

Carne Asada

We have just been cooking like crazy out of Bricia Lopez' new cookbook, Asada--The Art Of Mexican Grilling,and this is yet another example of how wonderful this book is! Even our beef avoidant child loved this, and wondered why there wasn't more left over. 3/4 cup (6 ounces) dark Mexican ale 1/2 cup fresh orange juice 1/4 cup fresh lime juice 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil, divided 6 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons plus 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt, divided 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 2 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 teaspoon Mexican oregano 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 10 spring onions or 15 scallions, divided 2 pounds flap steak, patted dry (See Note) 1 small white onion, thinly sliced (about 1 3/4 cups) 2 serrano chiles, stemmed and halved lengthwise 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro Whisk together Mexican ale, orange juice, lime juice, 1/4 cup oil, garlic, 2 tablespoons salt, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, oregano, paprika, cumin, and cloves in a large bowl until spices are evenly incorporated. Trim 4 spring onions or 6 scallions, and cut in half lengthwise. Using the palm of your hand against a flat work surface, lightly smash spring onions until a little moisture is released. Combine smashed spring onions, flap steak, white onion, chiles, cilantro, and ale mixture in a large ziplock plastic bag. Seal bag, and shake to thoroughly mix; gently massage marinade into steak. Chill at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours. Remove steak from marinade, and pat dry using paper towels; discard marinade. Place steak on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat grill to very high (500°F to 550°F). Place steak on lightly oiled grates. Grill, uncovered, until lightly charred in spots and a thermometer inserted in thickest portion of steak registers 125°F for medium-rare, 3 to 5 minutes per side, or to desired degree of doneness. Transfer steak to a cutting board, and let rest 5 minutes. Meanwhile, trim remaining 6 spring onions or 11 scallions; toss with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl until well coated. Place spring onions on oiled grates, and grill, uncovered, turning occasionally, until softened and lightly charred, 4 to 6 minutes. Slice steak against the grain; serve with grilled spring onions, warm tortillas, and salsa. Note To substitute skirt steak for flap steak, marinate at least 8 hours or up to 12 hours.

Salsa Borracha Ribs

Another winning recipe from Bricia Lopez' cookbook Asada. We did the slow cooking part in the oven and finished on the grill. Really excellent. FOR THE RUB: 2 tbsp of sweet pimentón (can substitute smoked paprika) 1½ tbsp of garlic powder 1 tbsp of sea salt 1 tbsp of onion powder 2½ tsp of ancho chilli powder 1 tsp of freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp of dried oregano ½ tsp of dried thyme 2 racks of St Louis-style pork ribs, trimmed (2.3-3.2kg) FOR THE SAUCE: 300ml of tomato sauce 140g of chipotle in adobo 1 medium white onion, ¾ quartered and ¼ minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tbsp of olive oil 120ml of distilled white vinegar 75ml of Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp of dark brown sugar 2 tbsp of Tabasco hot sauce 1 tbsp of tomato paste 1 tbsp of sea salt 360ml of dark Mexican beer Method STEP 1 Make the rub, whisk together all the pimentón, garlic powder, salt, onion powder, ancho chilli powder, pepper, oregano and thyme. STEP 2 Place the ribs in a shallow pan and generously rub the spice mix all over the racks of ribs, on both sides. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. STEP 3 While the ribs are marinating, make the sauce: in a blender, add the ingredients, including some of the chipotle adobo sauce. Blend until smooth and set aside. STEP 4 Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the minced onion and stir until translucent and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Carefully add the blended tomato sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium heat and cook until it has reduced by a third, about 10 minutes. Add the vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, Tabasco, tomato paste, and salt and stir to combine. Lower the heat and continue to cook for another 20 minutes, until the sauce has thickened. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. STEP 5 Preheat your grill to 135°C if using a pellet grill. If you don’t have a pellet smoker, you can use your oven for this step. STEP 6 On a work surface, spread out 2 large sheets of aluminium foil on top of each other (big enough to wrap each of the racks individually). Working one at a time, remove a rack of ribs from the fridge and place it on top of a piece of foil. Pour about half of the cooled sauce over the top and wrap the ribs in the foil, pleating the edges so the package seals well. Repeat with the second rack. STEP 7 Place the ribs in the middle of your preheated grill or oven, meat side up, and cook for 3 hours--this can be done in a 275 degree oven instead. After 3 hours, carefully uncover the ribs. Reserve 240ml of sauce in a serving bowl for dipping later. Liberally brush the ribs with the rest of the sauce. Cover the ribs again and allow to cook for 1 more hour. STEP 8 Remove the ribs and prepare your grill for hot direct cooking. Make sure the grates are clean. If using a pellet grill, raise to high heat and crisp your ribs for about 4 minutes on each side, until the ribs are fall-apart tender and really saucy. If using a pellet grill, remove the ribs, carefully remove the grill grate using two tongs and grilling gloves, and add more charcoal until you reach a higher temperature, and place the ribs back on the grill to crisp up then. STEP 9 Once the ribs are crispy, using either two spatulas or a spatula and tongs, remove the ribs to a platter and serve right away, with the leftover sauce on the side. The ribs may be so tender, that they will shred when you try to serve yourself.

Salsa de Piña Tatemada

We are loving cooking from Bricia Lopez' new cookbook called Asada: The Art Of Mexican Grilling--although we are taking the heat down several notches. This was a bif hit at a multiple protein grilled dinner we cooked. 3 garlic cloves, peeled 1 medium-size red onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups) 1 medium (about 3-pound) pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices 2 fresh serrano chiles, stemmed 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh parsley Preheat grill to high (450°F to 500°F). Place garlic cloves and onion on 2 separate pieces of aluminum foil; fold each to create sealed packets. Place packets directly on grill grate; cook, uncovered, turning occasionally, until garlic and onion have softened, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place pineapple slices and chiles on oiled grates. Grill, uncovered, until pineapple is well marked, flipping once, 3 to 5 minutes per side, and skin on chiles is evenly charred, flipping often, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, and let cool 5 minutes. Chop pineapple into 1/4-inch pieces and garlic and chiles to a mince, and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in grilled onion and lime juice. Set aside. Add chile paste to bowl with pineapple mixture. Stir in parsley, and season with additional salt to taste.

Guajillo Grilled Chicken

The cookbook for Food 52's cookbook club this July is Bricia Lopez' Asada: THe Art of Mexican Grilling, and this is one of the first recipes we tried. I really loved the fruity flavor that the guajillo chiles added to the meat. We served sliced up as tacos alongside an excellent Arroz Rojo from the same cookbook. 12 guajillo chillies (50g/1¾oz), stems and seeds removed ½ large white onion (150g/5¼oz), roughly chopped 8 cloves garlic, peeled ¼ tsp black peppercorns (about 12 peppercorns) 1 whole clove 1 tbsp dried Mexican oregano 2 tbsp grapeseed oil ¼ cup (60ml) orange juice 2 tbsp seasoned rice vinegar 2 tbsp fresh lime juice ¼ tsp ground cinnamon 1½ tbsp sea salt 910g (2lb) bone-in chicken thighs In a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, lightly toast the chillies, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the skillet and set aside. In the same skillet, add the onion and garlic, turning once or twice until they are lightly charred, about 10 minutes. Remove from the skillet and set aside. Add the peppercorns, clove, and dried oregano to the pan and lightly toast until they are aromatic, about 2 minutes. Transfer the toasted spices and oregano to a molcajete or spice grinder and grind until finely ground. In a high-performance blender or food processor, add the toasted chillies, onion, garlic, ground spices and oregano, oil, orange juice, rice vinegar, lime juice, cinnamon, and salt. Blend until most of the chillies have come apart. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Using a gallon-size resealable bag, add the marinade and the chicken. Seal and let sit in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Remove the chicken thighs in their marinade from the fridge to allow them to reach room temperature before grilling.

Street Corn and Bacon Pizza

We, like thousands of others, got a pizza oven during the pandemic and my spouse went about perfecting his pizza dough game. We have settled on a 48-72 hour dough that has such good flavor and texture that while we get pizza out, it has become consistently disappointing. The very best pizza outside our house is equivalent to the worst of what we make at home. This pizza topping combo was the hands down winner amongst the adults at our last pizza dinner at home. It is simple and so so good! 1 pizza dough 4 slices bacon 1 ear fresh sweet corn on the cob, husked 1 jalapeno, sliced into rings, seeds removed or not, your choice About 1/4 of a medium red onion, sliced with the grain 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1/3 cup full fat Greek yogurt or sour cream 4 ounces crumbled cotija cheese (This Mexican cheese is very similar to feta only without the brine) 2 teaspoons fresh garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon chili powder 1/2 fresh lime, to squeeze over pizza after it is baked Cilantro, to top pizza after it is baked Flour and corn meal to prepare crust Use the pizza dough you are going to use, and prep it as you would. Cut up the bacon and cook until almost done. Leave heat on medium high and add whole corn cob to skillet and cook for about five minutes, turning to brown all sides. Remove to paper towels. Once cool enough to handle, cut corn from cob and place corn in a small bowl. Set aside. Add jalapeno and onion and cook until no longer raw but not quite cooked, about 1-2 minutes. Remove to a bowl. In a small bowl mix yogurt or sour cream with mayonnaise and set aside. Spread ½ cup of the mayonnaise mixture onto the dough, going to within a half inch from the edge. Place the remaining mixture into a squeeze bottle to squeeze over the top of the baked pizza. If you do not have a squeeze bottle, cut the tip off of a sandwich bag, fill with mixture and use that in place of the bottle. Top the sauce with half of the bacon, corn, jalapeno, onion and all of the garlic. Then top with all of the cotija cheese and finish with the remaining bacon, corn, jalapeno and onion. Sprinkle chili powder over of the whole pizza then slide onto the pizza stone. Cook as usual, until the crust starts leoparding. Remove. Squeeze lime juice over the pizza as well as sprinkling with cilantro. Drizzle with the mayonnaise mixture and serve.

Serious Eats Chili

Half our family had made this before we did, and I can see where the popularity comes from. Such depth of flavor, and umami all over the place! There are quite a few suggestions about what you can add to this to enjoy it, but what I like best is to put it between 2 corn tortillas with a bit of shredded cheese and make a sincronizada. Made a couple of changes, but this is largely true to the base recipe. For Chili: 1 pound (450g) dried dark red kidney beans 3 tablespoons (26g) kosher salt or 6 tablespoons table salt 3 whole ancho, pasilla, or mulato chiles, seeded and torn into rough 1-inch pieces (about 1/2 ounce) 2 whole New Mexico red, California, costeño, or choricero chiles, seeded and torn into rough 1-inch pieces (about 1/8 ounce) 1 whole cascabel, árbol, or pequin chile, seeded and torn in half 1 1/2 tablespoons (9g) whole cumin seeds 1 1/2 teaspoons (3g) whole coriander seeds 2 whole cloves 1 star anise 5 pounds (2.3kg) bone-in beef short ribs, trimmed of silver skin and excess fat Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons (30ml) vegetable oil 1 quart (900ml) low-sodium chicken broth (preferably homemade), divided 1 ounce (30g) chopped unsweetened chocolate 2 tablespoons (30ml) tomato paste 1 tablespoon (5g) extra-finely ground coffee beans 2 whole anchovy fillets 2 teaspoons (10ml) soy sauce 1 teaspoon (5ml) fish sauce 1 large yellow onion, diced fine (about 1 1/2 cups) 4 cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon) 3 fresh Thai bird chiles or 1 jalapeño pepper, finely chopped 1 tablespoon (3g) dried oregano 2 bay leaves 1 (28-ounce; 794g) can crushed tomatoes 1/4 cup (60ml) cider vinegar, plus more to taste 1/4 cup (60ml) vodka or bourbon 2 tablespoons (28g) dark brown sugar For Garnish (all suggestions optional): Scallions, thinly sliced Cheddar, Jack, or Colby cheese, grated Sour cream Jalapeño or Poblano peppers, stemmed, seeded, and diced Onion, diced Avocado, diced Saltine crackers Fritos Place beans, 3 tablespoons kosher salt (36g), and 4 quarts (4L) water in a large plastic container or bowl. Allow to soak at room temperature at least 8 hours, or overnight. Drain and rinse soaked beans. Add dried chiles to a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or stockpot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until slightly darkened with an intense, roasted aroma, 2 to 5 minutes. Do not allow to smoke. Remove chiles, place in a small bowl, and set aside. Alternatively, place dried chiles on a microwave-safe plate and microwave on high power in 15-second increments until chiles are pliable and toasted-smelling, about 30 seconds total. Reduce the heat to medium; add the cumin, coriander, cloves, and star anise to the Dutch oven and stir, toasting until the spices become fragrant. Remove spices, cool slightly, then transfer to a spice grinder and grind into a powder. Set aside. Season short ribs on all sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add oil to Dutch oven and heat over high heat until smoking. Add half of short ribs and brown well on all sides (it may be necessary to brown ribs in 3 batches, depending on size of Dutch oven—do not overcrowd pan), 8 to 12 minutes total, reducing heat if fat begins to smoke excessively or meat begins to burn. Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet or plate. Repeat with remaining short ribs, browning them in the fat remaining in Dutch oven. Once all short ribs are cooked, transfer all rendered fat into a small bowl and reserve separately. Allow short ribs to cool at room temperature. Meanwhile, return Dutch oven to medium-high heat and add 1 cup (240ml) chicken broth, using a flat wooden spoon or stiff spatula to scrape browned bits off of bottom of pan. Reduce heat until chicken broth is at a bare simmer, add toasted chiles to liquid, and cook until chiles have softened and liquid is reduced by half, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer chiles and liquid to a blender. Add ground spices, chocolate, tomato paste, coffee, anchovies, soy sauce, and Marmite. Blend at high speed, scraping down sides as necessary, until a completely smooth purée has formed, about 2 minutes. Set chile purée aside. Trim meat from short rib bones and hand-chop into rough 1/2-inch to 1/4-inch pieces (finer or larger, as you prefer), reserving bones separately. Add any accumulated meat juices to chile purée. Heat 4 tablespoons (60ml) rendered beef fat (if necessary, add vegetable oil to reach 4 tablespoons) in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed stockpot over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add garlic, fresh chiles, and oregano and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chile purée and cook, stirring frequently and scraping bottom of pot, until chile mixture begins to fry and leaves a coating on bottom of pan, 2 to 4 minutes. Add remaining chicken stock, chopped beef, beef bones, and bay leaves. Bring to a simmer, scraping bottom of pan to loosen browned bits. Reduce heat to lowest possible setting, add beans, and cook, with cover slightly ajar, until beans are almost tender, about 1 hour. Add crushed tomatoes and cider vinegar and cook, with cover slightly ajar, until beans and beef are fully tender and broth is rich and lightly thickened, 2 to 3 1/2 hours longer, adding water if necessary to keep beans and meat mostly submerged (a little protrusion is okay). Using tongs, remove and discard bay leaves and bones. (At this point, any excess meat still attached to the bones can be removed, chopped, and added back to the chili, if desired.) Add vodka (or bourbon), brown sugar, and hot sauce and stir to combine. Season to taste with kosher salt, ground black pepper, and additional vinegar.

Calibacitas

This is an amazing way to have summer squash! 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small onion, diced 1 poblano pepper, diced 1 jalapeno pepper, diced (seeds removed if you don't want it spicy) 2 cups of corn 2 plum tomatoes, diced 1 large summer squash 3 cloves garlic, minced 1-2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt to taste 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 cup water 1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese 1/4 cup milk optional garnishes: crumbled cotija cheese, chopped cilantro Heat olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, poblanos, and jalapenos. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until vegetables begin to soften. Add corn and tomatoes. Cook for 5 more minutes, stirring occasionally. Add zucchini, yellow squash, garlic, salt, black pepper, oregano and ground cumin. Stir to combine and cook for 5 minutes, stirring every minute or so. Add water to skillet, reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Uncover the skillet, add the shredded cheese and milk, and stir together until the cheese has fully melted. Remove from heat, garnish with chopped cilantro and cotija cheese, and serve.

Tacos Gobernador

This comes from Rick Martinez's new cookbook Mi Cocina, which is a food tour through regions of Mexico. His enthusiasm for the recipes he chose for the book is infectious, and I was very happy that I used my shrimp for this. A wildly popular weeknight dinner when paired with a simple salad. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound (453 grams) large shrimp, peeled, deveined, and tails removed 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter 1/2 medium white onion (154 grams), thinly sliced 1 medium chile poblano (125 grams), stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced into strips 1 medium celery stalk (49 grams), thinly sliced crosswise on the diagonal 1 medium chile serrano (24 grams), stemmed and thinly sliced into rings 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican 3/4 teaspoon (4 grams) Morton kosher salt, plus more to taste 1/2 teaspoon crushed or ground coriander seeds 8 flour tortillas 6 ounces (170 grams) queso asadero, quesillo, or Monterey Jack cheese, grated In a large skillet over high, heat the oil. Arrange the shrimp in an even layer in the skillet and cook, turning once, until just starting to brown, for about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium and melt the butter. Cook the onion, chile poblano, celery, chile serrano, garlic, oregano, salt, and coriander, tossing occasionally, until the onion and chile poblano are beginning to brown, for 6 to 8 minutes. Add the tomato and cook, tossing occasionally and scraping up any browned bits, until the tomato begins to break down, for about 5 minutes more. Transfer to the bowl with the shrimp and toss to combine. Taste and season with salt. Wipe the skillet clean with a paper towel. Working with 2 or more tortillas at a time (if you can fit 2 tortillas in your skillet), cook the tortillas until lightly toasted on one side, for 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and add a small mound of cheese in the center of the toasted side. Top with some of the shrimp filling and fold over like a taco. Cook the untoasted side until the cheese is beginning to melt and the tortilla is lightly toasted, for 2 to 3 minutes. Flip to toast the second half. Continue with the remaining tortillas, cheese, and shrimp.

Ropa Vieja

There are so many different versions of this long stewed meat recipe from countries that touch the Caribbean, all of them worhty of consideration, but this one (from Serious Eats) includes green olives, which along with red and yellow peppers, are my favorite additions to the dish. Serve it with black beans and rice and enjoy the flavors of warmer places. 2 1/2 pounds (1.1kg) beef flank steak (brisket and skirt work as well) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons (45ml) vegetable oil, plus more if needed 1 large yellow onion (about 15 ounces; 415g), diced 3 red, yellow, and/or orange bell peppers (about 8 3/4 ounces; 250g each), thinly sliced 8 medium cloves garlic (3/4 ounce; 25g), minced 1 tablespoon (15ml) tomato paste 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 1/2 cup (120ml) dry white wine 1 (14-ounce; 396g) can peeled whole tomatoes in their juices, crushed 1 cup (240ml) stock 2 bay leaves 1 medium carrot, diced 1 celery rib, diced 1/2 cup (90g) pimento-stuffed olives, sliced into thirds 1 small handful chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems (about 1/2 loosely packed cup) Cooked rice and pinto or black beans, for serving Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Cut flank steak into large pieces that will fit on the bottom of a Dutch oven in 2 batches. Season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in batches, add steak and cook, turning, until browned, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer steak to a plate and set aside. Stir in tomato paste, cumin, oregano, and allspice and cook, stirring and scraping, for 1 minute. Add white wine and bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pot. Boil until raw alcohol smell has cooked off from wine, about 2 minutes, then add canned tomatoes and stock. Return beef to pot, nestling it under the liquid among onions and peppers, along with any of its accumulated juices. Nestle bay leaves, carrot, and celery into pot. Add more stock, just enough to cover all the ingredients, if necessary. Cover Dutch oven and transfer to oven, then let cook until beef is very tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Remove bay leaves, carrot, and celery from pot and discard. Remove beef from pot and, using 2 forks, pull apart into very thin, long shreds. Return beef to pot, stirring to combine with vegetables and cooking liquid. Stir in olives, return Dutch oven to medium heat, and simmer until juices have reduced just enough to coat the beef in a rich, saucy glaze. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in cilantro, then serve with rice and beans in equal parts.

Homemade Salsa for Canning

Oh my gosh, the garden is going crazy with tomatoes, and so even though it is not Labor Day weekend, which is out usual day for heavy canning of tomatoes, we got started early. In addition to a primavera sauce (because we have lots of other vegetables on hand as well so why not?) and some pizza sauce, I took another stab at making and canning salsa (my last attempt was about a decade ago and it did not go well....). This one is good going into the jar, and hopefully will be just as good coming out. 9 cups peeled and chopped tomatoes 2 1/2 cups chopped bell peppers 2 1/2 cups chopped white onion 4 medium jalapenos, chopped (with seeds for a hotter salsa, without for a milder one) 8 large cloves garlic, chopped 6 teaspoons canning salt 1/2 cup cider vinegar 1 (12 ounce) can tomato paste Instructions Remove the skins from the tomatoes. To do this, make an “X” in the bottom of the tomatoes, then place in boiling water for 60 seconds. Then, remove the tomatoes from the water and place directly into a bowl if iced water to shock. The skins should slip right off. (I use my spider to transfer the tomatoes from the boiling water to the ice water without getting splashed.) Make the salsa. Place all of the ingredients in a large pot (you will need a 10qt. saucepan for this batch, or split the ingredients among 2 saucepans) and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until thickened and cooked. Prepare cans to be sealed. Ladle the cooked salsa into clean, sterile jars leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Wipe rims of jars with a damp, clean, paper towel, then place lids on top. To make filling easy, I highly recommend a wide funnel designed for canning jars. Process using a water bath (or better yet, pressure can them). To do this, bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Your saucepan needs to be tall enough to have the water cover the jars by 2 inches- though the jars will displace some of the water as they are added. Add the jars to the water bath and cover with a lid. Process for 30 minutes, then remove. I use these tongs to make things easy.

Mexican Picadillo

This recipe comes via Nopalito, a coobook for a restaurant of the same name, and it is really delicious. They serve with refried beans on a tostada shell, then topped with fresh salsa, shredded cabbage and crema. I made it to make nachos with, and it is good just all by itself. Ingredients 500 g minced meat 2 tbsp oil salt 1 tbs. chile powder--a homemade one is the best 1/2 tsp. cumin 1/2 tsp. oregano 1 large white onion diced 2 jalapeños seeded and diced 2 tbsp tomato puré 4 carrots minced small 1 small potato, diced small 1 1/3 cup diced tomatoes 2 tbsp water INSTRUCTIONS Over medium high heat in a dutch oven or large skillet add oil and the ground beef and onion and salt. Cook and stir until beef is well fried. Stir in jalapeños, spices, and tomato paste. Cook for several minutes. Add the tomatoes, carrot, and potato. Reduce heat to low and cook for 20 minutes. Add some water if it dries out.

Beef Empanadas

It is the Jewish Festival of Light, with the subtitle that we celebrate the miracle of oil by frying up some things.  The one thing that we really learned to do during the pandemic is how to fry foods.  We did so without even breaking out the little counter top fryer that we have, which would likely make setting a temperature and keeping it easier, but such is a time when one has nothing to do but learn in the kitchen, and hope that the food is spectacular, or at least edible.  This year my spouse made these empanadas and I really loved them. Note that the dough can be a bit sticky to work with.

For the empanada dough:

• 2 eggs
• ¼ cup milk
• 1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 4 ½ cups/575 grams all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
• 1 cup/225 grams unsalted butter (2 sticks), diced
• 2 tablespoons white vinegar
• ⅔ cup ice water

For the filling:

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• ½ large green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• ½ large red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 3 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
• ½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• ½ medium russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-centimeter cubes (about 1/2 cup)
• ¼ cup raisins
• ¾ pound ground beef
• 1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon oyster sauce
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• ½ cup chicken stock
• 1 (48-ounce) bottle neutral oil, such as canola, for frying

1. Prepare the empanada dough: In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the milk and 1/2 teaspoon salt. In a large bowl, combine the flour and 1 tablespoon salt, and mix well. Add the butter and incorporate it into the flour using your hands or a food processor. Combine until mixture is sandy. Combine the egg mixture, vinegar and 2/3 cup ice water, whisking to break up the egg. Add egg mixture to flour mixture, and beat with a fork to bring dough together.
2. Sprinkle a light layer of flour over a work surface. Place the dough on top. Bring dough together by pressing and folding dough onto itself a few times with the palms of your hands. Being careful not to overwork, split dough in half and form into two equal logs about the thickness of a small sausage, 1 1/2- to 2-inches thick. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.
3. While the dough rests, prepare the filling: In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high and bring to a shimmer. Add the tomato paste and toast, stirring frequently, until darkened and caramelized, about 3 minutes. Add the onion, bell peppers, garlic, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 5 minutes.
4. Add the potato and raisins, and cook, stirring, until mixture starts to caramelize, 8 to 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes.
5. Add the beef, increase the temperature to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until beef is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Stir in oyster sauce and soy sauce until coated, then stir in chicken stock. (Mixture should be glossy but not overtly wet; cook for another 5 minutes or so to reduce liquid, if need be.) Transfer to a sheet pan, dispersing in a thin layer, and refrigerate until chilled, at least 20 minutes.
6. Fill a small bowl with some cool water for sealing your empanadas, and another small bowl with flour for dusting. Working with one log at a time, remove dough from fridge. Cut each log in half crosswise, then cut each half crosswise into 10 equal pieces, which will be the shape of thick coins. Using a bit of flour, dust your work surface. Round each coin slightly using your thumb and forefinger and on your surface with your hands press each coin lightly to coax it into a flat round shape. Switch to a rolling pin and roll each piece of empanada dough into a 4 1/2-inch circle. You can lightly dust and stack your circles off to the side or transfer them to a parchment lined baking sheet and chill until you are ready to assemble (they are easier to work with when kept cool). Repeat with remaining log. When you have all your pieces rolled out, you are ready to assemble your empanadas. Place about 1 1/2 tablespoons of the meat filling in the center of each circle, leaving at least a 1/2-inch border. Using a brush or your finger, wet the edges of the dough with water and fold the crust over the filling, forming half-moon empanada shapes, sealing out as much air as possible. Crimp the edges of the empanada with the tines of a fork to seal.
7. In a large heavy Dutch oven or pot, heat about 2 inches of oil over medium-high. Heat oil to 365 degrees. Working in batches so as not to crowd the pan, maintaining an even heat, fry the empanadas, turning frequently, until they start to bob, 4 to 5 minutes. (They should be crisp and golden brown, the pastry should be cooked through and the meat should be warmed through.) Transfer to a paper-towel lined baking sheet and fry remaining empanadas. Serve warm.

 

Al Pastor Tacos

These are from the Food Lab, and like any Kenji recipes, these are not done the easy way, but rather the flavor driven way.  My spouse made them in a period after having a tooth pulled and I was having a lot of trouble eating a lot of different kinds of foods, and I was at best skeptical of this, but it was simply the best al pastor I have had, certainly in the town that I live in, and it is deeply comforting and delicious.  Leave yourself days to complete this task.

• For the Pork:
• 2 whole ancho chilies, seeds and stems removed
• 2 whole pasilla or guajillo chilies, seeds and stems removed
• 1/2 cup homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock
• 2 teaspoons vegetable oil
• 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
• 1 teaspoon dried ground cumin seed
• 1 tablespoon achiote powder or paste
• 1 chipotle chili packed in adobo sauce, plus 2 teaspoons sauce from can
• 1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
• 3 whole cloves garlic
• 2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 2 pounds boneless blade-end loin or sirloin pork roast
• 8 ounces (1/2 pound) sliced bacon
•  
• To Finish and Serve:
• 1 small pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into quarters lengthwise
• corn tortillas
• 1 medium white onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)
• 1/2 cup finely minced fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 3 to 4 limes, cut into 8 wedges each for serving
• Avocadoes
  

Directions

1. Place chilies in a large saucepan over medium high heat and cook, turning chilies occasionally, until puffed, pliable, lightly browned in spots, and very aromatic, about 5 minutes. Add chicken stock (it should boil immediately), then pour contents of pan into a small bowl. Cover loosely and set aside.
2. Wipe out saucepan, add oil, and return to medium-high heat until oil is shimmering. Add cumin, oregano, and achiote and cook, stirring frequently, untila aromatic but not browned, about 30 seconds. Add chipotle chilies and sauce and cook until aromatic, about 30 seconds longer. Add vinegar, salt, and sugar and remove from heat.
3. Scrape contents of saucepan into a blender along with garlic and chilies with their soaking liquid. Blend on high speed until completely smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides as necessary. Set sauce aside to cool slightly.
4. Using a very sharp chef's knife or slicing knife, slice the meat as thin as possible. If necessary, place meat in freezer for 15 minutes to firm it up. Split the sides of a heavy duty zipper-lock bag. Place one slice of meat inside bag and pound with the bottom of a heavy 8-inch skillet or a meat pounder until less than 1/4-inch thick. Transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with remaining meat.
5. Add marinade to bowl and toss with hands until every piece of meat is evenly coated in marinade.
6. Line the bottom of a disposable aluminum loaf pan with bacon. Add a layer of thin-sliced marinated meat. Continue layering in bacon and meat until all the meat is used up. (It may pile above the pan a little bit. This is ok.) Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 36.
7. To cook indoors: preheat the oven to 275°F. Uncover aluminum loaf pan and place on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Transfer to oven and cook until meat is completely tender (It will drip lots of fat), about 4 hours. Remove from oven, allow to cool slightly, cover with aluminum foil, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight.
8. To cook outdoors (which I did not): light half a chimney of charcoal and allow to preheat until coals are mostly covered in gray ash. Spread out under one half of coal grate, and place cooking grate on top. Alternatively, set one set of burners on a gas grill to low and leave the remaining burners off. Unwrap aluminum loaf pan and place directly over cooler side of grill, placing a drip pan underneath if desired. Cover grill and cook until loaf registers 180 to 190°F in the center, about 4 hours, adding more coals to grill or adjusting burners as necessary to maintain an air temperature of around 275°F for the duration of cooking. Remove from grill, allow to cool slightly, cover with aluminum foil, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight.
9. To Serve: Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove cooked meat from aluminum tray, scraping off any fat or jellied juices from its sides. Use a spoon to collect fat and juices from tray, reserving each separately. Using a sharp chef's knife or slicing knife, slice meat as thinly as possible to create fine shavings of meat and fat. Transfer to a bowl.
10. If fat from meat is solid, heat gently in the microwave or in the oven until melted. Transfer pineapple pieces to a rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Brush with fat. Transfer to oven and roast until completely tender, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly.
11. About 10 minutes before pineapple is done roasting, transfer meat and 1 tablespoon of fat to a large cast iron or non-stick skillet. Heat over medium high heat, stirring occasionally, until meat crisps and deeply browns in spots. Add any reserved juices and toss to combine, allowing it to cook until reduced to a moist glaze. Transfer meat to a warmed serving bowl.
12. Chop roasted pineapple into large chunks. Serve meat and pineapple immediately with warmed tortillas, onions, cilantro, salsa, and lime wedges. Meat will be very moist and should be packed into double-stacked tortillas for serving.

 

Green Chili Chicken in an Instant

We were gifted some small and exceptionally tough chickens and found that the best way to prepare them was in an Instant Pot.  Pressure cooking them was the only way to make them less tough, and then to use the meat to make something.

This recipe made a delicious sauce.  We cooked the chicken whole, pulled the meat off the bones, made enchiladas, then used the sauce to pour over them, So that is one variation, but if you are searching for things to cook in your Instant Pot, this is a good option, coming from the Food Lab.

 

• 3 pounds bone-in skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks
• 3/4 pound tomatillos, quartered, husks discarded (about 4 tomatillos)
• 1 pound poblano peppers, roughly chopped, seeds and stems discarded (about 3 peppers)
• 6 ounces Anaheim or Cubanelle peppers, roughly chopped, seeds and stems discarded (about 2 peppers)
• 2 Serrano or jalapeño chilies, roughly chopped, stems discarded
• 10 ounces white onion, roughly chopped (about 1 medium)
• 6 medium cloves garlic, peeled
• 1 tablespoon whole cumin seed, toasted and ground
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves and fine stems, plus more for garnish
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• Fresh corn tortillas and lime wedges, for serving

1. Combine chicken, tomatillos, poblano peppers, Anaheim peppers, Serrano peppers, onion, garlic, cumin, and a big pinch of salt in a pressure cooker. Heat over high heat until gently sizzling, then seal pressure cooker, bring to high pressure, and cook for 15 minutes. Release pressure.
2. Using tongs, transfer chicken pieces to a bowl and set aside. Add cilantro and fish sauce to remaining contents of pressure cooker. Blend with a hand blender or in a standing blender and season to taste with salt. Return chicken to sauce, discarding skin and bones and shredding if desired. Transfer to a serving platter, garnish with chopped cilantro, and serve immediately with tortillas and lime wedges.

Caldo Verde

I found this in my search for soup recipes that use chickpeas.  In looking further into it, I think the traditional version of this soup is not pureed, or at least not to the extent this is, and it is also less greens dense.  Since it is now well into the fall, the season when greens still abound because they are frost tolerant, but we know the season's end nears, this seems like a perfect option.  The other thing about this is that I have stewed and frozen quite a few greens this summer, and I can still manage to crank it out well into February while we wait for the tender Asian greens of the spring to arrive.  This recipe is vegetarian, but I think sausage can be added.

1. • 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil
   • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
   • 1 cup small-diced onions
   • 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
   • 8 cups mixed leafy greens (kale, collards, and mustard)
   • 1 cup no-salt-added chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
   • 1 quart stock
   • Salt
   • Freshly ground black pepper

Pour the olive oil into a large pot, and place over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the onions and paprika; lower the heat to medium; and cook, covered, until tender, 2 to 3 minutes.

Put the greens into a blender and blend until pureed (you may use a little water to help, or use the wand tool that comes with some blenders to force the greens to blend without water). Pour this mixture into the pot, increase the heat to high, and cook until the water has evaporated from the greens.

Pour two-thirds of the chickpeas into the blender with 1 cup of the stock and blend until smooth. Add the pureed chickpeas to the pot with the remaining chicken stock and chickpeas and bring to a simmer. Cook covered until the greens are tender and the soup has thickened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into four bowls and serve.

 

Beef Barbacoa

We have strayed somewhat from our intense Tex-Mex month in May, but beef in the instapot makes for a weeknight meal.

1. • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
   • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
   • 3 cloves garlic, minced
   • 1 chipotle chile in adobo, minced
   • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
   • 2 teaspoons dried oregano
   • 1 teaspoon salt
   • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
   • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
   • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
   • 2 1/2 pounds boneless beef chuck roast, trimmed of most fat and cut into large chunks
   • 1/2 cup reduced-salt chicken broth or All-Purpose Chicken Stock
   • 2 bay leaves
   • Small (6-inch) corn tortillas, for serving
   • Salsa or pico de gallo, for serving
   • Cotija cheese, for serving

1. 1. Whisk together the vinegar, lime juice, garlic, chipotle, cumin, oregano, salt, pepper, and cloves in a medium bowl. Set aside.
   2. Press Sauté and use the Sauté or Adjust button to select the highest temperature (“More”). Place the vegetable oil in the inner pot. Wait until the display reads “Hot,” about 5 minutes, then add the beef. Cook with the lid off, turning the beef every 2 minutes, until the beef is browned on most sides, about 8 minutes.
   3. Add the vinegar sauce and the chicken broth (be careful—steam may whoosh up!), and then the bay leaves. Stir to combine.
   4. Close and lock the lid. Set the valve to Sealing. Press Cancel, then press Manual or Pressure Cook and use the Pressure or Pressure Level button to select High Pressure. Use the – or + button to set the time to 30 minutes.
   5. When the cooking cycle ends, press Cancel. Allow the appliance to cool and release pressure naturally, about 20 minutes. (The pressure is released when the small metal float valve next to the pressure-release valve sinks back into the lid and the lid is no longer locked.)
   6. Remove the lid. Discard the bay leaves. Use tongs or a large spoon to remove the beef from the inner pot and place it on a cutting board. Shred the beef using two forks: Use one fork to pull off a chunk and then use two forks to shred that piece, holding down the meat with one fork and pulling at it with the other. Repeat with the remaining beef.
   7. Serve the beef hot, piled into corn tortillas and topped with salsa and a sprinkling of Cotija cheese, if desired.

 

 

Ama's Deviled Eggs

These are incredible!

8 hard-boiled eggs, cooled, peeled and halved lengthwise

3 tablespoons mayonnaise, more if needed (preferably Kewpie brand)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoon chopped red onion

1 teaspoon chopped capers

2 tablespoons chopped celery

 1 tablespoon chopped Calabrian peppers

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1/2 teaspoons chile powder
3/4 cup chopped bacon to sprinkle on the top. 

Place the egg whites on a serving platter, and combine the yolks in a bowl. Mash the yolks using a ricer or a fork until finely crumbled. Add tall but the bacon and mix well. Add additional mayonnaise, if desired, for a creamier consistency.

Divide the yolk mixture among the egg whites. Sprinkle with bacon and cilantro before serving.

A Nacho Philosophy

Chris Shepherd's cookbook, Cook Like a Local, has a sleeper of a recipe, one that I definitely skipped right over, but my son wanted me to make.  Thank goodness,  because this is the best homemade queso I have ever made.  Do not skip the Sambal Oelek!!
Here is his nacho philosophy:

1. Chips Are All Important. “Make sure your chips are thick and sturdy. If you get only one takeaway from this recipe, it’s thick chips. And they should be a certain shape. Are rounds good? No, I don’t think so, you want the corner texture; it’s a little crispier. And homemade are too greasy; don’t waste your time trying to make your own chips.” Testing tip: Not all thick chips are created equal. Make sure yours are sturdy and won't melt when sauce hits them. If you're serious about your nachos, it's worth doing a test with a few chips and salsa to make sure they'll hold up.
 2. Go for Double Cheese. “If you’re only going to do one cheese, go with shredded Colby or Cheddar. Flavor and texture-wise it’s a better payoff, the way the cheese clings to the chip. But if you can do both cheese sauce and shredded cheese, you’ll be happier. You’re basically ensuring a jackpot with every chip.
3. Layering, Layering, Layering. “The worst mistake you can make with nachos is to pour everything over the top. A high-rising pile of nachos is a beautiful thing. Respect the bottom layers; you don’t want those chips to be naked. Construct your nachos: bottom layer, middle layer, top layer.” Testing tip: This doesn't mean a nacho mountain—the toppings inside won't melt. Use a large pan and spread the chips out. And then, of course, top them well.

Nacho Meat
1 lb. ground beef
1 tbsp. chili powder
1 tbs. cumin
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
½ tbsp. onion powder
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
Salt

Nacho Fixings
Thick, sturdy tortilla chips
1½ cups nacho meat
4 cups shredded cheese
1 cup pickled jalapeños
1 cup shredded cabbage
1½ cups pico de gallo, for serving
1 cup sour cream, for serving
½ cup cilantro leaves, for serving

Make the Nacho Meat. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the ground beef and cook, stirring, until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining ingredients and cook for 1 minute. Season with salt to taste.

Spicy Cheese Sauce
 1/4 c. diced onion
4 garlic cloves minced
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 cup half and half
2 c. grated sharp Cheddar
3 tbsp. sambal oelek
1 Tbs. red hot sauce
Salt

Melt the butter in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, add onions and garlic. Slowly stir in the flour and cook over moderate heat until the roux is smooth and bubbling, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the  half and half slowly. Cook, whisking occasionally to remove any lumps, until thickened and smooth, about 15 minutes. Slowly whisk in the grated sharp cheddar, a handful at a time.  Stir in the sambal and hot sauce. Season with salt.

Assemble the Nachos. Preheat the oven to 350°. Cover a large, rimmed cookie sheet or baking pan with foil (optional). Arrange a layer of tortilla chips on the cookie sheet. Spread one-third of the nacho meat on the chips, followed by a third each of the cheese sauce, Colby cheese, jalapeños, hominy and cabbage. Repeat the process two more times. Bake in the oven for about 10 to 15 minutes, until the cheese is melted. Top with the remaining ingredients. Consume immediately.