Nottoway Plantation

This was the last of four plantations that I visited on a recent trip. We made our way to this grand home, the most luxurious that we saw, after having spent the night at the Madewood plantation. The house is not just bigger than other houses we looked at but also much more plushly detailed--perhaps that is becasue it is the only house that has been continuously inhabited throughout it's history. One house we saw had a herd of cattle run through it, damaging the marble floors beyond repair (well, I would have tried to do a Gaudi-inspired mosaic, but I suspect my thoughts on decorating are not going to be much appreciated.

One highlight of the house for me was the dining room. The table was set with Sevres china (apparently this china comes in four colors: pink, blue, green, and yellow--the china of the original house was pink, but the same style as the table was set, with different scenes depicted in the center of each plate, you you might wonder which one you were eating of of tonight. I loved all the fine detail, down to the crystal knife shelves. So convenient.

The moulding around the doorways and ceilings throughout the whole first floor were spectacular. It surprises me that I think htat, because I usually uch prefer simpler lines and decoration, but these really worked with the house, and have been well preserved. They are of humble origin (mud and horsehair) but once painted add an elegant touch. I would recommend a visit, and if traveling as a couple, an overnight stay either here or at Madewood (which is more modest in price, not open as a tour house without an appointment, and dinner is included with the room).

It Hurts to Watch the Birds

I have seen the aerial photos of the oil spilling, still spilling into the Gulf of Mexico from the BP oil rig. I have seen fires, and booms to prevent it from coming ashore. But somehow the thing that breaks my heart is birds covered in oil, looking bewildered, and often frightened, cold, emaciated, dehydrated, exhausted and suffering from the internal effects of oil. So what can be done for these guys? Take them to a rescue center ASAP, it turns out--they need expert help.

What will they do there? Initial procedures may involve cleaning the eyes, nasal and oral passages of oil and dirt, applying saline eye solution, giving oral fluids and activated charcoal solution, but not washing.
To wash a bird that is already highly stressed and not medically stable could mean death. Apparently, many oiled bird's die because well-meaning people, anxious to get oil off the bird, wash it immediately. It is actually more important to give oiled birds the much needed nutrition, hydration and medical treatment they need before they are washed.
Once stable, oiled birds go through a series of tub washes alternating between baths with a one percent solution of Dawn dishwashing liquid and clean water. The wash time varies depending on the amount of oil, and the size of the bird, but on average it takes two people 45 minutes and 300 gallons of water to do a thorough washing.
After being washed, the birds are put in cages with warm air dryers. The final steps are to put them in warm water pools, where they continue to preen, and finally into cold pools. Birds in rehabilitation are checked constantly to make sure that they are completely waterproofed and when their blood work and weight are in the normal range, they are banded and released.
I learned that Procter and Gamble has made countless donations of Dawn dishwashing liquid over the years for bird cleaning operations--thank you for this largely unsung contribution to decreasing suffering.

Louisiana Voodoo

Voodoo is alive and well in New Orleans. It was brought to the French colony Louisiana through the slaves. From 1719 to 1731, the majority of African slaves came directly from West Africa, and they brought their cultural practices, language, and religious beliefs rooted in spirit and ancestor worship with them. The practice of making and wearing charms and amulets for protection, healing, or the harm of others was a key aspect to early Louisiana Voodoo. The ouanga, a charm used to poison an enemy, contained the poisonous roots of the figure maudit tree, combined with other elements such as bones, nails, roots, holy water, or crucifixes. The administrator of the ritual frequently evoked protection from Allah, the Christian God, and Jesus Christ. This openness of African belief allowed for the adoption of Catholic practices into Louisiana Voodoo.

Most noted for her achievements as voodoo Queen of New Orleans in the 1830’s was Marie Laveau (grave pictured here, but the St. Louis #1 Cemetery). Once the news of her powers spread, she successfully overthrew the other voodoo queens of New Orleans. She acted as an oracle, conducted private rituals behind her cottage on St. Ann Street of the New Orleans French Quarter, performed exorcisms, and offered sacrifices to spirits. Also a devout Catholic, Marie encouraged her followers to attend Catholic Mass. The influence of her Catholic beliefs further facilitated the adoption of Catholic practices into the Voodoo belief system. Today, she is remembered for her skill and compassion for the less fortunate, and her spirit is considered one of the central figures of Louisiana Voodoo.

Many still firmly believe that she can still grant blessings from the grave. The blessing will cost you an offering of zombie brand candles, flowers, food, or money. There is an urban legend which states if you mark her tomb with “XXX” using chalk or brick that she will grant a wish. There are different versions on how to practice this old ritual. Voodoo practitioners state that this practice has nothing to do with Voodoo beliefs. The Voodoo practitioners and historical preservationists strongly discourage marking the graves because it is disrespectful and causes damage to the grave.

Crawfish Gumbo

2 c. diced peppers
2 c. diced celery
2 c. diced onion
2 T. olive oil
1. tsp. oregano
1 tsp. thyme
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. chili powder
1/2 tsp. cumin
1/4 tsp. cayenne
1/4 c. flour
8 c. shrimp stock
1 lb. sliced okra
2 lbs. cooked and peeled crawfish
salt and pepper to taste
Serve hot sauce on the side
Sautee vegetables in olive oil--once they begin to wilt, add spices. Add flour, and incorporate, stirring often, until flour has browned. Add stock and okra, cook until the okra is soft. Add crawfish, and season. Serve in a bowl with a scoop of rice on top.
I adapted this from Donald Link's 2009 cookbook 'Real Cajun', and made it for my parents. It was delicious!

Homer Plessy Memorial

On my visit to new Orleans, I visited the grave of one of the heroes of the civil rights movement, Homer Plessy.
Homer Plessy was, in many ways, an unlikely standard-bearer for the cause of black equality. Born in 1863 (months after the Emancipation Proclamation was issued by Abraham Lincoln) to free parents, he had never known slavery. He had never worked in agriculture, instead supporting himself through artisanal (shoe making) and professional (insurance salesman) work in New Orleans. Homer Plessy was seven-eighths white. With just one African-American great-grandparent, the light-skinned Plessy appeared to be white but was legally defined as black under Louisiana law. The fact that Plessy didn't look black would make it easy for him to infiltrate the whites-only car without encountering any resistance, thus highlighting the arbitrary discrimination of the law.
Surprisingly, perhaps, Plessy and the Citizens' Committee organized their challenge to the Separate Car Law with the complete cooperation of the East Louisiana Railroad. The railroad was apparently less interested in defending white supremacy than in making a profit. It cost money to provide separate cars for whites and blacks on every train. So when Plessy bought a first-class ticket and boarded the train on 7 June 1892, the railroad hired a private detective to ride along to make sure that someone was on hand to arrest him.
Plessy, the Citizens' Committee, and the East Louisiana Railroad all hoped that the court would vindicate Plessy by overturning the railroad segregation law as unconstitutional. Instead, Judge John Ferguson rejected the Citizens' Committee's constitutional arguments and convicted Homer Plessy for breaking the law. The Louisiana Supreme Court then upheld the verdict, before the United States Supreme Court finally agreed to hear the case in 1896.
The Supreme Court's decision in Plessy v. Ferguson dealt a devastating blow to Homer Plessy and all other African-Americans. By a 7-1 majority, the justices upheld Louisiana's Jim Crow railroad act, ruling that the Fourteenth Amendment offered no protection to "social rights" and that, "if one race be inferior to the other socially, the constitution of the United States cannot put them on the same plane." The court explicitly rejected Plessy's argument that segregation was inherently demeaning, taking a gratuitous slap at Jim Crow's victims by describing as a "fallacy" the idea that "the enforced separation of the two races stamps the colored race with a badge of inferiority."
Only one justice, John Marshall Harlan— a southerner and former slaveholder—dissented from the majority in Plessy v. Ferguson, recognizing segregation as a "badge of servitude" inherently degrading to black citizens. "In the view of the constitution," Harlan wrote, "in the eye of the law, there is in this country no superior, dominant, ruling class of citizens. There is no caste here. Our constitution is color-blind, and neither knows nor tolerates classes among citizens. In respect of civil rights, all citizens are equal before the law." But Justice Harlan's ringing defense of colorblind democracy was at least half a century ahead of its time. In 1896, the overwhelming majority of the American people, like the overwhelming majority of the Supreme Court, did tolerate classes among citizens, and Plessy v. Ferguson guaranteed that Jim Crow laws designed to enforce divisions among those classes would be protected from constitutional challenge. By so firmly and unambiguously endorsing the logic of segregation in Plessy, the Supreme Court all but encouraged states to pass ever more draconian laws to separate blacks from whites in all spheres of public life. John Marshall Harlan's more egalitarian interpretation of the law would, eventually, be vindicated—but not until 1954, when the Supreme Court reversed Plessy in Brown v. Board of Education. For the intervening 58 years, Jim Crow would be the law of the land. Plessy failed to achieve his goal, but he was brave to try.

Oak Alley Plantation

Oak Alley is named for the 28 oak trees that lead from the Mississippi River up to the house (pictured here). It is a spectacular setting. The last time I was in plantation country, I had just had a baby and was apparently not forming new memories all that well. My excuse is going to be sleep deprivation. I had forgotten just how overwhelmingly emotional it can be. We had stayed at Oak Alley, in the slave cabins one night and then in the main house the following night. Coming back to the spectacular setting brought it all back, though.

Throughout my stay in Louisiana I found that people had a difficult time talking about slavery. No one wanted to talk about the role of enslaved people in the "glory" of the South. This was not just an oversight. We asked. Everywhere we went. It is a very important part of the story, but the natives are not going ot put it together for the visitors. We are left to do that work ourselves.

I can tell you, the slave quarters at Oak Alley have been seriously upgraded since the days of their first inhabitants. There is plumbing. The walls are insulated. There is air conditioning. But despite these changes, all of which would undoubtedly have made the day to day lives of their original ocupants, they are not anywhere near as nice as the accomodations in the main house. We stayed in the attic room of a very grand house, which almost causes you to adopt a Scarlett O'Hara sashay as you walk the halls. The accoutrements of wealth are very powerful indeed, and no one had to tell us that they are alive and well.

Buying Art on the Streets of New Orleans

From eHow:
New Orleans has long provided talented artists with inspiration to create beautiful works of art. Local artists sell New Orleans-influenced pieces around the city. Though prices on some pieces can be thousands of dollars, many artists make their pieces affordable to the average buyer. By knowing where to shop, anyone can buy affordable art in New Orleans.

Step 1--On the last Saturday of each month, shop for a piece from one of New Orleans’ own artists at the Arts Market of New Orleans. This market, held in Palmer Park, features more than 50 artists selling paintings, photographs and a variety of other handcrafted pieces.

Step 2--Attend the Bywater Art Market on the third Saturday of each month to browse and buy affordable local and regional art. Set up at Royal Street and Piety in the Bywater neighborhood, vendors sell beaded jewelry, metalwork, paintings, drawings and furniture.

Step 3--Browse art created and sold by street vendors around the perimeter of Jackson Square. The greatest number of vendors set up during tourist season and on weekends.

Step 4--Hunt for hidden treasures in Magazine Street antique shops. Unique pieces often find their way to one of the city’s many antique shops.

Step 5--Check out vendor booths at city and neighborhood festivals. Festivals from the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival to the Bayou Boogaloo have areas dedicated to local artists selling their wares. Step away from the stages and venture into the craft areas to find a variety of affordable art.

I went for option 3. It is fun to walk through the art galleries in the French Quarter, but the prices are largely not affordable, and also quite variable (we found a four fold difference from place to place for one artist). I loved the Michalopoulos Gallery at 617 Bienville St. (http://www.michalopoulos.com/) but his work is out of my price league. But I was happy with my Sunday morning Jackson Square purchase.

Laura Plantation

I spent two days going from plantation to plantation in the area along the Mississippi River between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. This is the first place we went, and in a number of ways it was the most interesting. The house was by no means grand, so it differed from many of the palatial homes in the neighborhood. It was built entirely from swamp cypress, which was the norm. The family was of mixed race, and Creole. So they were catholic and they spoke French. But they also had slaves. Lots of them. Probably around two hundred at the time of the Civil War. The guide (who had read the memoirs of a previous owner, but may have been making this up, who knows) said that slavery was not about color but about class distinctions. I am pretty sure if I was a slave I would disagree with that assessment.

This plantation was a family run business for four generations, and three of the generations had women at the helm of the enterprise. The plantation went not to the eldest, or to a man, but rather to the offspring that was felt to be best able to handle the place. This caused considerable resentment--no surprise there--and impressive pressure from parents who were not chosen to raise a child who would be deemed worthy of inheriting the plantation, lock, stock,and barrel.

The construction of the house was fascinating. And not fancy. The house was assembled in the swamp with hole and peg construction, so it could be taken down, carried someplace, and reassembled. Voila! The foundation goes down 8 feet under ground and is set on a series of pyramidal supports under each pillar--so as to prevent it from sinking into the river sand upon which is was built. I liked the practicality of it, as well as the finished product.

They did a lot of painting on the doors--which I liked alot. It fit in the place--as did the brightly painted exterior--with not just three colors but bright ones. This is a part of the United States that reminds me of Nicaragua. The heat and humidity invite boldness, a lushly colored living space. Unlike New Orleans, which was where the city house was, there is no ornateness in this place. It is beautiful but utilitarian.

Iris Restaurant, New Orleans

I spent my 51st birthday at this restaurant--my husband had phoned ahead and the table was decorated with glitter, and had a nice bottle of champagne on ice waiting for our arrival. The guide book had given the restaurant $$/$$$$ for expense and Zagats gave it a 25/30. A very respectable profile. We found the price to be truth in advertising, and the food to be exceptional. In addition, the atmosphere was very charming, with wonderful sconses on the wall that I would like to find for my own house.

We both had two small plates, and it was more than enough food. I started with a duck confit salad with beets--delicious! The duck had been browned, and set on top of greens dressed in a traditional French vinagrette. It was familiar and unusual at the same time. For a second course I had the clams with fresh pasta and andouille sausage--again, both familiar and unusual. The pasta was clearly al dente, much like what we had in Rome earlier this year--I tend to cook it a tad longer than that, but this is traditional. Both courses went well with the champagne, and we would happily return.