Roasted Pork with Peach Sauce

This is a hands off meal, but requires long cooking--we were going our for the afternoon and popped it in hte oven before we left and it ws ready when we got home--we used some peaches we froze last summer for the sauce which worked beautifully. 6 to 8 pound bone-in pork butt 1/3 cup kosher salt 1/3 cup light brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground black pepper Peach Sauce: 10-oz frozen peaches (or use 2 fresh peaches) 2 cups dry white wine 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 2 sprigs thyme 1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard The night before your meal, use a sharp knife to cut slits into the fat cap; 1″ apart forming a cross-hatch pattern, but take care not to cut into the meat. Combine 1/3-cup kosher salt and 1/3-cup brown sugar in small bowl, then rub over the entire roast (including the slits). Wrap roast tightly using two layers of plastic wrap, place of a rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate until ready to cook the roast (but no more than 24 hours). The next day, unwrap and brush off any excess salt mixture using paper towels. Season roast with 1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper. Spray your V-rack coated with non-stick cooking spray. Add 1 quart of water to your roasting pan. Place the roast on V-rack with the fat cap facing up and set aside while the oven pre-heats. Set an oven rack to the lowest position and pre-heat your oven to 325-degrees. Bake for 5 to 6 hours, depending on the size of the roast. Basting every two hours, adding more water after each basting to prevent the fond from burning. But don’t add so much water as to dilute the liquid. The roast will be finished when an instant-read thermometer inserted near the bone (but not touching) reaches 190-degrees. Place the roast on a carving board and loosely tented with aluminum foil for one hour. While the meat rests make the sauce. Pour the jus from roasting pan into a fat separator. After allowing the fat to separate for 5 minutes, pour 1/4-cup into a small saucepan. You can discard the remaining jus. Cut the peaches into 1″ chunks. Add your peach chunks, 2-cups white wine, 1/2-cup sugar, 1/4-cup rice vinegar, and 2 sprigs of thyme to the small saucepan with the 1/4-cup jus. Bring sauce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the sauce has reduce to 2 cups remove from heat. Find and discard the thyme sprigs, then add the final tablespoon of rice vinegar and tablespoon of whole-grain mustard. Mix together and cover to keep warm. Cut around the bone (shaped like an up-side-down “T”) with a paring knife, then use a clean kitchen towel to pull it from the roast. Slice the roast using a serrated knife, and serve, passing the peach sauce separately.

Pasta With Zucchini, Corn and Shrimp

This is a great summer dish! Salt and black pepper 1 pound linguine or other long pasta 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled, deveined and tails removed (about 20 shrimp) 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 tablespoons olive oil 6 garlic cloves, minced 1 medium shallot or ½ medium onion, minced Red-pepper flakes 2 cups chunked zucchini 2 cups corn kernels (2 to 3 large ears) ¼ cup chopped fresh mint, for garnishing ¼ cup chopped fresh basil, for garnishing In a large pasta pot, bring salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook according to the packaging directions until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Meanwhile, pat the shrimp dry with a paper towel and season with salt. In a separate large pot, melt 2 tablespoons of butter into 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium high. Add shrimp in a single layer and cook until just opaque, about 2 minutes per side. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to extract shrimp and set aside. Maintaining medium-high heat, add the garlic, shallot and a pinch each of salt, black pepper and red pepper, stirring constantly until the garlic is fragrant and shallot is translucent, about 3 minutes. Add zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes. Add corn along with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and a pinch of salt; stir to coat. Cook until the corn is bright yellow and warm, about 2 minutes. Be careful not to overcook the vegetables, they should maintain their crispness. Add pasta to the pot with the vegetables, followed by the shrimp, ½ cup of the reserved pasta water and the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Stir to combine, reheating the shrimp while creating a glossy sauce, for about 90 seconds. Remove from heat and add chopped mint and basil and stir. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve immediately.

Plum Torte

This is amazing, and when plums are in season, it would be worth making a few and freezing them for future use. My spouse made this for a family dinner, and it disappeared immediately, and we would have made a serious dent in another one had it been available. It calls for a springform pan, but he made it in a parchment lined layer cake pan and it came out easily. 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 pinch salt 3/4 cup sugar 1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 large eggs 10 to 12 Italian prune plums, pitted and halved lengthwise 1 pinch Turbinado sugar and ground cinnamon for sprinkling Heat the oven to 350° F. Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt in a small bowl and set aside. In the bowl of a standing mixer or handheld beaters, cream the sugar and butter until very light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula. Add the dry ingredients and the eggs all at once, and beat until combined, scraping down the bowl once or twice. Spread the batter into an 8 or 9-inch spring form pan. Arrange the plum halves, skin side up, on top of the batter in concentric circles. Sprinkle the batter and fruit lightly with turbinado sugar and cinnamon (I use about 2 teaspoons of sugar and 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon, but adjust these to your taste). Bake the torte for 40 to 50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Cool the cake in its pan on a rack for 10 minutes, and then release the spring and let it finish cooling just on the base. Once it's cool, serve as soon as possible. Or, you can double-wrap the torte in foil, put it in a sealed plastic zip lock bag and freeze (for up to one year!).

The Mosquito

One cocktail hurdle that I am deftly leaping over these days is appreciating (at least a little bit) the bitter/sweet balanced drink. This is one such example, which also has spicy and smoky notes. 1 oz Mezcal (Luminar) 1 oz Campari, 1 oz Ginger Syrup 1 oz Lemon Juice. Shake & Strain

The Little Devil

Early in the pandemic my spouse was creating craft cocktails at a staggering level. I thought I might never go to a bar again! In truth, I do not have a deep or wide experience in bars, especially those without live music, so that was probably not much of an insight. Now it is a rarer but still enjoyable experience. It features a French liqueur that we made at home, which is something that I love about French cuisine--make use of everything good that life has for you. 1 1⁄2 oz. Ancho Reyes liqueur 1⁄2 oz. mezcal 1⁄2 oz. tequila 3⁄4 oz. cherry liqueur(homemade Guignolet , which he made last summer) 3⁄4 oz. lime juice 1⁄4 oz. agave 1⁄2 oz. simple syrup Shake with ice, strain into rocks glass over one or two large cubes, garnish with Luxardo cherries

Lemon Yogurt Blueberry Muffins

It is a great pleasure to wake up in the morning and have something baked and ready to eat--these muffins are quick to put together, and the lemon flavor builds the next day. 2 cups (272 grams) all-purpose flour 2¼ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt ⅔ cup (133 grams) sugar Finely grated zest of 1 lemon ¾ cup (180 ml) plain yogurt, not straight from the fridge 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 stick (8 tablespoons; 4 ounces; 113 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled 1½ cups (360 ml) blueberries (optional) Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 400 degrees F. Line a regular-size muffin tin with cupcake papers (first choice, especially if you’re including the blueberries) or coat the cups with baker’s spray. Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a large bowl. Put the sugar and lemon zest in a medium bowl and, using your fingers, press and mash them together until the sugar is moist and fragrant. Whisk the sugar into the flour mixture. Scrape the yogurt into the bowl you used for the sugar, add the eggs and whisk to blend. Whisk in the melted butter—the mixture may look slightly curdled, but it will be fine. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and, using a flexible spatula and a few brisk strokes, stir and fold until most of the flour is moistened. You might have a few patches of dry flour here and there, and that’s okay. Add the berries, if you’re using them, and stir to incorporate. Don’t overmix—a bit of negligence yields a nicer texture. Divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a tester inserted into the center of one comes out clean. Transfer the tin to a rack and let the muffins rest for 5 minutes, then lift them out of the tin and onto the rack.

Quick Cinnamon Rolls

These cinnamon rolls are surprisingly good considering there is no yeast, and you can literally go from waking up to eating them in less than an hour, and you ware likely to have everything on hand if you bake in general. Defintiely the best conamon roll per minute of effort! ½ cup/113 grams unsalted butter, very soft, plus more for greasing the pan ½ packed cup/110 grams light brown sugar 1 ½ teaspoons cinnamon ¾ cup/90 grams chopped pecans, toasted (see Tip) FOR THE ROLLS: 2 cups/256 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon fine salt ¼ teaspoon baking soda ¼ cup/54 grams canola oil ¾ cup/180 grams buttermilk FOR THE GLAZE: 4 ounces/113 grams cream cheese, very soft 1/2-3/4 cup/51-76 grams confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon whole milk or heavy cream ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Heat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease a 9-inch round cake pan. Make the filling: In a medium bowl, using a flexible spatula or wooden spoon, mix butter, brown sugar and cinnamon until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the pecans. Set aside. Make the rolls: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt and baking soda. Add the oil and, using a flexible spatula or wooden spoon, mix until incorporated. (It might be a little lumpy. That’s OK!) Stir in the buttermilk until just blended. Gather the dough into a ball and knead on a lightly floured surface until smooth, about 1 minute. Roll out the dough into a 15-by-8-inch rectangle. Gently spread the filling evenly over the dough, leaving a ¼-inch border all around. Starting from one of the long sides, roll up the dough into a tight cylinder. Rotate the roll so that the seam is against the work surface. Using a serrated knife, cut the roll crosswise into eight equal slices. Transfer the rolls to the prepared pan, spacing them evenly. (At this point, you can wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a day or 2, or freeze for up to 3 months. Allow to come to room temperature before proceeding.) Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden. While the rolls bake, make the glaze: In a medium bowl, using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, beat the cream cheese until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat well. Add the milk and vanilla, and beat until smooth and creamy. Set aside. Remove the rolls from the oven and allow to cool for 3 to 4 minutes before coating with the glaze. Serve warm.

Buffalo Sauce

My youngest son's tastes are such that when he decides he wants to try something, and once it is prepared to his satisfaction, we have it again and again. He whole heartedly participates in the search for the perfect recipe and amasses the ingredients to bring the idea to fruition, but cooking is definitely a team sport in our house and he rarely attempts anything completely alone. So it went with this, which no one is more surprised than I am to be posting a rave review of. His buffalo chicken wrap is definitely delicious and becomes yet another thing that I will not likely order out once the pandemic is more or less over. ⅔ cup hot pepper sauce (such as Frank's RedHot®) ½ cup cold unsalted butter 1 ½ tablespoons white vinegar ¼ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ⅛ teaspoon garlic powder salt to taste Combine the hot sauce, butter, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, and salt in a pot and place over medium heat. Bring to a simmer while stirring with a whisk. As soon as the liquid begins to bubble on the sides of the pot, remove from heat, stir with the whisk, and set aside for use. Toss with already cooked chicken! This is surprisingly good for all it's simplicity.

Sephardic Haroset

We begin this Passover season with the COVID pandemic still in full swing, despite the limited availability of vaccines. At our table we have fully and partially vaccinated people, gathered for a mask free event of more than one bubble for the first time in over a year. While there are still plenty of reasons to be cautious, there is a reay of hope this year, and we are celebrating with two types of haroset this year, maximizing the sweetness over the bitterness. Chag Sameach! 1 1/2 cups red wine (recommended: cabernet sauvignon or Manischewitz) 1 pound (2 1/2 cups) red raisins 8 ounces (1 1/2 cups) dried dates, chopped fine 4 ounces (3/4 cup) dried apricots, chopped fine 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste 8 ounces (1 1/2 cups) roasted almonds 1 teaspoon orange blossom water (optional) Bring wine to a light simmer on medium heat, then stir in fruit and spices. Cook uncovered until fruit is well hydrated and wine has reduced to a thick syrup, about 15 minutes. Add salt to taste and set aside. In a food processor, roughly chop almonds in short pulses. There should be no whole almonds remaining; a mix of large chunks and small crumbs is preferable. Remove almonds from food processor and transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add fruit mixture to food processor and pulse until fruit just begins to come together into a paste, 2 to 3 one-second pulses. Do not overprocess—large chunks of fruit should be intact. Transfer fruit to mixing bowl and combine well with almonds. Stir in orange blossom water and additional salt if needed. Flavor of haroset will improve over time. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Cream Scones

My spouse decided that he wanted to recapture a travel experience we had had long ago. We were traveling in Cornwall after attending a wedding in Ireland and we stopped at a small seaside town and had tea with scones and clotted cream and jam that were so delicious as to make your mouth water for them a quarter century later. We have had egregiously over-priced high tea both in London and in San Francisco but the scones and clotted cream of that day were not to be recaptured. These scones, from the King Arthur web site, are exactly that. Sadly I ruined the clotted cream by not getting cream, but the scones held up none-the-less. 3 cups (361g) King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 to 1/3 cup (50g to 67g) granulated sugar, to taste 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 1/3 to 1 1/2 cups (301g to 340g) heavy or whipping cream additional heavy cream, for brushing on scones coarse sparkling sugar, for topping Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper (or not; it helps with cleanup, but isn't necessary to prevent sticking). Whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Combine the vanilla with 1 1/3 cups cream. Drizzle the liquid mixture over the dry ingredients, tossing and stirring gently all the while. Add enough cream to make a cohesive dough, using up to 3 additional tablespoons if necessary. There shouldn't be any dry flour in the bottom of the bowl, but the dough shouldn't be particularly sticky, either. Lightly flour a clean work surface. Divide the dough in half, and gently pat each half into a 5 1/2" circle about 3/4" thick. We made ours smaller, but still triangles.

Bariis

 

We are cooking African food this month and the Somali food is absolutely fabulous.  This is a flavorful Basmati rice.

• 2 cups Basmati rice
• 1/4 cup Olive oil
• 1 Medium red onion sliced
• 1 Cinnamon stick
• 4 Whole cloves
• 3 cloves Garlic minced
• 1/4 teaspoon Ground cardamom
• 1 Medium tomato chopped
• Kosher salt to taste
• 1/4 cup Raisins
• 2 tablespoons Xawaash spice
  

Rinse basmati rice in a medium bowl under cold water until the water runs clear. Then cover with cold water and set aside, at least 10 minutes or up to 30 minutes.

In a large pan, heat olive oil on medium-high heat until it shimmers. Then add sliced red onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion softens, about 5 minutes. Add cinnamon stick and cloves and continue cooking until spices smell fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes, then add ground cardamom and minced garlic and cook 1 additional minute.

Increase heat to high and add chopped tomato with a pinch of kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the tomato’s water has evaporated and you’re left with a jammy paste. Then drain basmati rice and add to the pot, stirring to coat the rice with oil. Fry rice for 5 minutes.

Stir xawaash into rice along with 4 cups of warm to boiling water, along with raisins and another pinch of salt. Stir well to combine and bring rice to a boil. Then reduce heat to a low simmer, cover pot, and cook until rice has absorbed all liquid, about 20 minutes. S

Doro Wat

We are deep into cooking from In Bibi's Kitchen, and when one of our kids said he would be passing through town and could we feed him last week, we said sure and made this along with a rice pilaf.  I now know that this is the national dish of Ethiopia and Eritrea, but I had never had it before.  So I have missed the most delicious chicken dish I have had in recent memory.  The heat and the spice and the chicken and the egg all marry well with each other.  I could not stop bringing the serving dish over and spooning just a bit more and then a bit more still of the sauce over the food on my plate.  I served with kachumbari, a fresh salad of tomatoes and avocados with lime squeezed over them.

3 Tbs. butter

2 large onions, finely diced

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tbs. minced ginger

3 Tbs. Berbere spice

1 tsp. Kosher salt

2 medium tomatoes, diced

1 cup water

8 chicken drumsticks

6 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat.  Ass the garlice, onion, and ginger, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the berbere and salt and cook until aromatic, about a minute.  Ass the tomatoes and cook until they are reduced to almost dry.  Add the water and increase heat to high until it boils.  Lower heat and maintain simmer.  season the chicken and nestle into the pot.  Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, and cook until chicken tender, about an hour.  Add eggs and heat them through.

Remove chicken and eggs to a serving dish.  Raise the heat and reduce the sauce to the desired consistency.  Spoon over the chicken and eggs, and serve.
 

Maine Fish Chowder

This is from a restaurant in Portland, Maine that we had a nice time at, and ate good food there as well, with my eldest son and his wife.  We were on a rare tour through New England rather than just going to Vermont (which is our norm) and we really enjoyed Maine.  My family is from there going back to before the Revolutionary War, and while I normally focus on lobster and clam chowder, this was really good.  My brother and his wife had sent us some Alaska Halibut and we subbed that for the cod.  Really good.

• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1 pound boneless, skinless cod fillet, about 1-inch thick
• Kosher salt
• 1 pound sea scallops (or use more cod, some hake or another firm fish)
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium white or yellow onion, diced into 1/4-inch cubes
• 1 pound all-purpose potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch cubes
• ¼ pound bacon, sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch strips (optional)
• 2 quarts fish stock or dashi (Japanese fish broth, such as Hondashi bonito soup stock)
• 1 to 2 fresh thyme sprigs, or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Toasted nori sheets or seaweed snacks, crumbled into very small pieces, or dried seaweed flakes (optional)
• Snipped chives or minced scallion greens, for serving

1. In a small pan over low heat, toast the peppercorns until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Coarsely grind and set aside.
2. Trim cod of any pin bones or bits of skin and cut into 1-inch cubes. Lightly salt the cubes all over and set aside on paper towels to drain. Rinse scallops very lightly under cold water. Cut into half-moons and set aside on paper towels to drain. Keep seafood refrigerated until ready to use.
3. In a large pot, melt butter over medium-high heat. When the butter is just sizzling, add onion and potatoes and cook, stirring, until the onions start to melt and the potatoes are gold at the edges, about 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, if using bacon, cook the strips in a hot skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Set aside on paper towels to drain.
5. Add stock, thyme and toasted peppercorns to pot and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes. The potatoes should not be cooked through.
6. Stir in cream and heat through over low heat. Taste and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper.
7. Just before serving, with the chowder simmering over low heat, stir in seafood and simmer until potatoes are soft and seafood is just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the bacon.
8. Ladle the chowder into bowls. You want each serving to be around 2 parts broth to 1 part chunky goodness. Use your fingers to crush the nori into powdery bits, if using, and sprinkle over the top of each serving. Place about 1 teaspoon chives in the center of each bowl and serve immediately.

 

Suugo Suqaar

The Somali food in the new cookbook In Bibi's Kitchen is so fabulous, and this humble pasta sauce, an African Bolognese Sauce, is no exception.  It shares some things with the Italian version, in that it is ground meat that is cooked with onions and tomatoes for a long time to add flavor and tenderness to the sauce.  It has three full tablespoons of the Somali spice mix Xawaash, which gives the flavor depth and complexity that is worth savoring every bite of this meal.  Add in that a pound of the meat will cover 1.5 pounds of pasta, you also have an economical way to feed a crowd. this is amazing.

3 tbsp (45 mL) extra-virgin olive oil or canola oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 small green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 lb (454 g) ground beef
3 tbsp (45 mL) Xawaash Spice Mix (recipe follows)
1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt, plus more as needed
2 tbsp (30 mL) tomato paste
One 28-oz (825 mL) can diced tomatoes, with their juices
Cooked spaghetti (or whatever shape pasta you like) and coarsely chopped cilantro, for serving

Place the oil in a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the garlic, bell pepper and onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 8 minutes. Add the beef, Xawaash and salt and cook, stirring occasionally to break up the beef, until the meat is browned, about 15 minutes.

Add the tomato paste and diced tomatoes (and their juices). Fill the tomato can halfway with water and add it to the pot. Stir well to combine, being sure to scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom of the skillet. Increase the heat to high and bring the sauce to a boil, then decrease the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally as the sauce cooks, for 30 minutes. Season the sauce to taste with salt. Serve hot over cooked spaghetti, with the cilantro sprinkled on top. Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a few days and rewarmed in a heavy pot set over low heat (stir while you heat).

 

Digaag Qumbe

Yet another great recipe from Somalia, and using the spice mix Xawaash.  Coconut milk and yogurt add to the flavor.

3 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped (about 6 cups)

1 red bell pepper, seeds and membranes removed, coarsely chopped

2 jalapeños, seeds removed if you want less heat, coarsely chopped

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 onions, chopped

2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 1" piece fresh ginger, peeled, finely chopped (about 1 Tbsp.)

1 Tbsp. curry powder

1 Tbsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. ground turmeric

¼ tsp. ground cardamom

Kosher salt

1 cup plain yogurt

1 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 Yukon Gold potato, peeled, cut into ¾" cubes

1 carrot, peeled, cut into ¼"-thick coins

2 lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs, cut into 1" pieces

1 14-oz. can coconut milk

3 Tbsp. ghee (optional)

1 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped, plus whole leaves for serving

Steamed rice and/or spinach (for serving)

Step 1

Blend tomatoes, bell pepper, and jalapeños in a blender or food processor until almost smooth; set aside.

Step 2

Heat oil in a large pot over medium. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add ginger, cumin, curry powder, turmeric, and cardamom; season generously with salt. Cook, stirring, until very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add reserved tomato mixture to pot and stir well to combine. Stir in yogurt and tomato paste, cover pot, and simmer 10 minutes. Add potato and carrot and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are nearly tender, 15–18 minutes.

Step 3

Add chicken, coconut milk, ghee (if using), and 1 cup cilantro. Stir to combine, then simmer until chicken is tender and sauce thickens, about 20 minutes. Season with salt.

Step 4

Divide rice among bowls. Spoon chicken, vegetables, and sauce over. Top with cilantro leaves.

 

Xawaash Spice

This spice is the backbone of the Somali flavor, which is well worth the effort to make if you are going to delve into Somali cooking (which I recommend happen).  In cooking out of the new cookbook, In Bibi's Kitchen, I have realized that much like my discovery of regional Mexican cooking when I was in my 20's, there is a whole heck of a lot about African cooking that I know absolutely nothing about, and that is to my detriment.

One 2-inch (5-cm) piece cinnamon stick
1/2 cup (125 mL) cumin seeds
1/2 cup (125 mL) coriander seeds
2 tbsp (30 mL) black peppercorns
6 cardamom pods
1 tsp (5 mL) whole cloves
2 tbsp (30 mL) ground turmeric

Place the cinnamon stick in a small zip-top plastic bag, seal it and bang it a couple of times with a rolling pin, skillet or mallet (anything firm and heavy) to break it into small pieces.

Place the cinnamon pieces, cumin, coriander, peppercorns, cardamom and cloves in a small heavy skillet set over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the smell is very aromatic and the spices are lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Let cool. Transfer the mixture to a clean coffee grinder and grind into a fine powder (or use a mortar and pestle and some elbow grease). Transfer the ground spices to a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl and sift. Regrind whatever large pieces remain in the sieve and add them to the bowl with the ground spices. Add the turmeric. Whisk well to combine and transfer the mixture to an airtight jar. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.

Makes: about 1 1/4 cups (300 mL)

 

Sticky Buns (Possibly The Best)

We have been in pursuit of the perfect sticky bun recipe this whole pandemic (truthfully, my spouse has been doing the baking, and has a greater love of sticky buns than I do, but I have been an avid eater of the buns and I do like them alot).  This Food Lab recipe might be the best.  I ate two of them the morning they were made, which in and of itself is unusual and therefore indicative of a good recipe.  They are also easier than some.

For the Dough

• 3 large eggs
• 1/3 cup light brown sugar, packed
• 3/4 cup buttermilk, well-shaken
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 1 teaspoon table salt)
• 2 teaspoons instant yeast
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 4 cups (20 ounces) unbleached, all-purpose flour

For the Pecan-Caramel Sauce

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed
• 3 tablespoons buttermilk, well-shaken
• 4 ounces (1 cup) toasted pecans, roughly chopped
• Pinch of kosher salt

For the Filling

• 2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed
• 1 tablespoon cinnamon
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

The Recipe

1.  To make the dough:  Whisk the eggs in a large bowl well. Add the sugar, buttermilk, salt, yeast and melted butter and whisk until well mixed--it may be clumpy but this is OK. Now use a wooden spoon to mix in the flour until there is a well-formed ball of dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board or countertop and knead for about 2 minutes, until the dough is smooth and silky. Place the dough back in the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for about 2 hours, until roughly doubled in volume.

2.  Meanwhile make the pecan-caramel sauce:  Place the butter and brown sugar in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring every now and then, until sugar is totally dissolved and the mixture is bubbling. This should take about 2 minutes. Add in the buttermilk, pecans and salt and mix well and pour into a 9x13-inch glass baking dish. Set aside.

3.  To make the filling:  Mix the sugar and cinnamon together in a small bowl and set aside.

4.  Once the dough has risen, turn out onto a floured surface and lightly sprinkle flour on top of it as well. Push the dough into a rough rectangle with your hands and then use a rolling pin to roll it into a 16 x12-inch rectangle with the short end facing you. Use a pastry brush to brush the melted butter all over the dough, leaving about a 1-inch border along the top edge. Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar mixture all over the dough and use your hands to push it into the butter a bit and make sure it's spread evenly. Roll the dough up jelly-roll-style into a tight cylinder, using a bench scraper to help release the dough from the surface and allow you to make the roll tight. Pinch the seam shut and turn the dough so that it's seam side down. If you need to even out the shape a bit.

5.  Use a sharp knife to cut the roll into 12 even slices. The easiest way to do this is to cut the log in half and then cut each half in half, and then cut those into thirds. Place each roll on top of the sauce in the dish with the swirl side facing up, nestling the rolls together. Make sure the end slices go cut side down. Cover with plastic wrap and either leave at room temperature for about 2 hours until doubled in volume, the rolls should be well puffed and pressed tightly against each other or place in the fridge overnight to proof for up to 12 hours.

5.  In either case, before baking, preheat oven to 350ºF. If rolls have chilled overnight, take them out of the fridge when you start the oven so that they can warm up a bit. Bake for about 30 minutes until buns are golden brown and well puffed, turning the dish halfway through the baking process so that they cook evenly. Let the buns rest for about 5 minutes, then invert the buns onto plates and scrape out excess sauce and nuts and spoon over the buns. Serve immediately.

6.  Leftovers can be refrigerated and popped into the microwave for a quick reheat.

 

Sticky Buns a la Bravetart

We had these over the weekend and they were the best sticky buns I have had in a very long time.  Today is the birthday of my second middle child, and these seem very celebratory indeed.

Filling:

• 4 ounces unsalted butter
• 6 ounces light brown sugar
• 1/4 ounce ground cinnamon (about 1 tablespoon; 7g)
• 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon (1g) kosher salt
  

• For the Dough:
• 16 ounces all-purpose flour (about 3 1/2 cups, spooned; 450g)
• 3 1/2 ounces sugar
• 2 teaspoons instant yeast
• 1 3/4 teaspoons (7g) kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 4 ounces unsalted butter (8 tablespoons; 115g)
• 4 ounces milk (8 tablespoons; 115g)
• 8 ounces plain Greek yogurt (about 1 cup; 225g)
• 4 ounces toasted pecan halves, roughly chopped (a shy cup; 115g), or more to taste

• For the Caramel Topping:
• 12 ounces light brown  sugar
• 4 ounces heavy cream
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1. For the Filling: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine butter,  sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix on low speed until moistened, then increase to medium and beat the dark paste until creamy, light in color, and very soft, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a zip-top bag or disposable pastry bag and set aside until needed, up to 24 hours at room temperature.
2. For the Dough: Wipe the bowl with a paper towel, then whisk together flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and baking soda until thoroughly combined. Melt butter in a 2-quart saucier over low heat, then stir in milk and yogurt, warming to about 80°F (27°C). Add to flour and stir to form a very dry and shaggy dough. With the hook attachment, knead on low until silky-smooth and elastic, so that it can be gently stretched into a thin but rough sheet without tearing, about 20 minutes.
3. First Rise: Cover bowl with plastic and set dough to rise until puffy, light, and doubled in bulk, about 90 minutes at roughly 70°F (21°C). If the dough feels dense, firm, or overly resilient, rest 15 minutes before testing again (this is more likely in chilly months).
4. For the Caramel Topping: Just before shaping the dough, line a 9- by 13- by 2-inch aluminum baking pan with parchment (or use two parchment-lined 8-inch by 3-inch round cake pans). Add the  sugar to the pan, along with the salt and plain or toasted cream (or divide these evenly between the two pans). Mash with a fork to roughly combine.
5. Shaping: Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface, dust with flour, and roll into a 13-inch square. Snip a corner from the bag of cinnamon filling, squeeze over the dough, and spread into an even layer with an offset spatula. Sprinkle pecans on top and roll to form a 12-inch log, ending seam side down.
6. Slide an 8-inch strand of thread, unflavored dental floss, or butcher's twine under the dough until you reach the middle. Cross the ends over the top and pull tight to divide the log in two. Cut each half into six 1-inch slices and arrange in the prepared pan(s).
7. Second Rise: Cover rolls with foil and refrigerate overnight, or up to 48 hours. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 350°F (180°C); meanwhile, let the pan(s) stand at room temperature until oven is hot.
8. To Bake and Serve: Bake, covered, until the rolls are puffed and firm but pale, about 40 minutes. (If using dark pans, check on the cinnamon rolls after 25 minutes.) Remove the foil and continue baking until lightly browned, about 10 minutes more. Loosen rolls from the edge of a pan with a dull knife, then invert onto a serving plate (or plates). Serve immediately.

Sesame Peach Crisp

We were visiting friends who cook in the Tetons, and while the views were obscured by the northern California fires, the company and the food were exceptional.
It is funny how you can just click with people, and for me, a common love of cooking is a very good start.
Our last dinner was a joint effort, and our hostess made this exceptional peach crisp from the cover of Bon Appetit.  I cannot emphasize enough how great the sesame flavor married with the peaches.  So so good!
As a side note, I think this would do well with GF flour as well.

• 2½ lb. peaches (6–7)
• 1 lemon
• ⅓ cup plus 1¼ cups sugar
• 1¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided
• ⅓ cup raw white sesame seeds
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
• ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
• ⅓ cup tahini
• 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
•  1 tsp. (or more) cornstarch (optional)

Place a rack in top third of oven; preheat to 375°. Now prep your peaches. 
Slice 2½ lb. peaches (6–7) in half with a chef’s knife. Using a paring knife, slice the peaches.   As you go, transfer peach slices to a 13x9" baking dish.
Zest 1 lemon into a medium bowl; set aside.
Sprinkle ⅓ cup sugar, 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from the zested lemon), and ¾ tsp. salt over peaches. Toss to gently combine, then let sit while you prep the topping—aim for about 20 minutes.  
Spread ⅓ cup raw white sesame seeds on a rimmed baking sheet or in an ovenproof skillet. Toast, tossing halfway through, until golden brown all over, 12–15 minutes.  Immediately transfer to a large bowl (so they don’t keep cooking on hot baking sheet).
Add 1 cup all-purpose flour and remaining 1¼ cups sugar and 1 tsp. salt to bowl with seeds. Whisk to combine.
Add ½ cup (1 stick) butter and ½ tsp. ground cinnamon to medium bowl with lemon zest. Microwave until butter is melted, about 1 minute. Add ⅓ cup tahini and 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil and whisk to combine.
Pour tahini-butter mixture into dry ingredients, then mix until dry ingredients are incorporated and mixture holds together when you squeeze it in your hands
Assemble! The peaches should look juicy. And now you determine whether you’re using 1 tsp. (or more) cornstarch. If peaches are not-so-ripe, skip it entirely. If they’re perfectly ripe, use 1 tsp. And if they’re really juicy, use 2 tsp. Gently toss to combine.
Using your hands, squeeze crumble topping into big hunks, then break off uneven pieces and scatter over peaches.
Bake crumble until topping is well browned and firm and peaches are tender with bubbling juices, 50–70 minutes.

Shrimp, Corn, and Tomato Salad

This is spicy from the ginger, and a wonderful summer salad.  I broiled the whole thing--over cooked the shrimp a bit, so I would do 2 minutes, twirl the pan 180 degrees and another 2 minutes, or as described by the great Yoam Ottolenghi below.  Delicious!

1 lb. shrimp. shelled
1 tsp olive oil
Salt
1 small red onion, sliced or wedged
1 c. frozen sweetcorn, defrosted
2/3 c.  cherry tomatoes
1 tbsp picked marjoram (or oregano)
For the ginger, lime and sriracha dressing
3/4"  piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp sriracha
1½ tbsp olive oil
Finely grated zest of 1 lime (1 tsp), plus 1½ tbsp lime juice
¼ tsp sugar

In a small bowl, mix the dressing ingredients and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt.
Put a char-grill on a high flame and ventilate the kitchen. While it’s heating up, mix the prawns with the olive oil and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt. Griddle the onion wedges for five minutes, turning them every so often, until charred and cooked, but still with some bite. Transfer to a large bowl, then grill the corn for two minutes, until charred. Add to the onion bowl, then grill the tomatoes for three minutes, turning regularly, so they’re charred all over, and add to the bowl. Griddle the prawns for four minutes, turning them halfway, until charred and cooked through. Add to the bowl with the marjoram and dressing, toss gently, and serve at once.