Red Lentil Soup

As we get nearer to Thanksgiving, I am thinking of comforting food, and trying to lean into the immigrant history of America--once the holiday is upon us I will be thinking of native food that helped sustain my relatives in those early days in New England four hundred years ago. This is a keeper. Very easy, start to finish, and I gifted a quart to one of my kids when he was picking up his dog, and my DIL had finished it before it was even cooled down--that good! Ingredients 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 large onion, chopped fine Salt and pepper ¾ teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon ground ginger ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch cayenne--or I used sliced jalapenos 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 garlic clove, minced 4 cups chicken broth 2 cups water 10 ½ ounces (1 ½ cups) red lentils, picked over and rinsed 2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus extra for seasoning 1 ½ teaspoons dried mint, crumbled 1 teaspoon paprika ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Melt butter in large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and some salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add coriander, cumin, ginger, cinnamon, cayenne, and pepper and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in broth, water, and lentils and bring to simmer. Simmer vigorously, stirring occasionally, until lentils are soft and about half are broken down. Whisk soup vigorously until it is coarsely pureed. Stir in lemon juice and season with salt and extra lemon juice to taste. Thin with water as needed.

Mulligatawny Soup

A Tamil version that I would even leave the chicken out of and substitute in something like grated zucchini (but that is perhaps because I have a bunch of it frozen from last summer, and we are about to start up the new season in earnest this year). ¼ cup vegetable oil 1 red or yellow onion, minced Salt 8 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped 2 tablespoons minced ginger (from about 2 inches of peeled ginger root) 2 teaspoons black or brown mustard seeds 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon curry powder ½ teaspoon ground cayenne, plus more to taste ½ teaspoon cumin seeds 2 carrots, peeled and sliced 2 celery stalks, sliced 1 large apple, preferably Granny Smith, peeled, cored and chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized chunks 1 cup masoor dal (split red lentils) 6 cups chicken broth or stock 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk Juice of 1 lime (about 1½ tablespoons) Warm the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the onion, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and shrunken, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, and cook, stirring, until fragrant and softened, about 2 minutes. Add the mustard seeds, turmeric, curry powder, cayenne and cumin seeds, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mustard seeds pop and sizzle, about 90 seconds. Add the carrot, celery and apple, and cook, stirring, until just starting to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, then the flour, and cook, stirring well, to uniformly coat all the ingredients, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken, masoor dal and chicken broth. Season lightly with salt. Bring to a boil, stirring to scrape up any browned bits sticking to the bottom of the pot. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cover the pot and cook for 10 minutes, then uncover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes more, until the chicken and carrots are tender, the soup is creamy, and the flavors have blended. Stir in the coconut milk and squeeze in the lime juice. Serve in bowls topped with a dusting of cayenne, if desired.

Cheddar Jalapeno Soup

We have entered into the full on soup making part of the winter, and this was a soup that could be shared with househild members who like spicy and those that don't, as the jalapenos are added on serving. This is hearty and very flavorful. 2 jalapeños 2 limes, halved Kosher salt and black pepper Large pinch of granulated sugar or a drop of honey 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 large Spanish or white onion, diced 2 celery stalks, diced 4 garlic cloves, minced ½ teaspoon chili powder, plus more for garnish 2 ½ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 quart vegetable broth 2 cups grated Cheddar (8 ounces), plus more for garnish 1 cup half-and-half, or use 1/2 cup whole milk and 1/2 cup heavy cream 3 scallions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced Chopped cilantro, for serving Thinly slice the jalapeños, discarding the seeds if you like. Put slices in a bowl and squeeze in enough lime juice to cover them. Add a pinch each of salt and sugar. Let sit at room temperature while you make the soup. (The jalapeños can be prepared up to 5 days ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator; they get softer and more pickle-y as they sit.) In a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add onion, celery and a large pinch of salt, and sauté until lightly golden and soft, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and chili powder and sauté until fragrant, 1 minute. Add potatoes, broth and 2 teaspoons salt, and bring to a simmer. Cook until potatoes are very tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Using an immersion blender or transferring the soup to a regular blender in batches, purée the soup, adding some water as needed to thin it out. (The soup can be as thick or brothy as you like.) Return the soup to the pot if you removed it and reduce heat to medium-low. Add cheese and half-and-half, and cook at a very gentle simmer, stirring, until the cheese melts, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed. Top each bowl with pickled jalapeños, plus a drizzle of their pickling liquid and a pinch of chili powder, along with scallions, cilantro and more Cheddar.

Cream of Poblano Soup

I have to say that I was surprised by how good this soup tasted, after almost no time on the stove. I would definitely make again, especially as I have chilis roasted, seeded and peeked in the freezer. 5 large poblano peppers or 7 small ¼ cup + 2 tablespoons avocado oil 1 medium onion chopped 1 jalapeno minced 6 cloves garlic minced ¼ cup chopped cilantro ½ teaspoon white pepper 4 cups broth 1 cup half and half 4 ounces vegan cream cheese can sub regular cream cheese if not vegan 1 teaspoon sea salt Toppings: ½ cup pico de gallo 1 cup shredded cabbage we used a cabbage, cilantro and jalapeno blend 1 avocado diced or sliced Instructions Place the poblano peppers on top of a gas burner, alternatively place them on a baking sheet under your oven broiler. Roast for 5 minutes until charred on each side. Place the roasted peppers in a glass container with a lid or a paper bag. Set aside to cool. Once cooled, scrape off most of the charred skin and slice off the stem and remove the seeds. Chop the poblanos into bite sized pieces. Heat the avocado oil in a 5-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Once hot add in the onion, jalapeno, garlic, and cilantro. Cook 4-5 minutes until soft but not browned. Add in the white pepper and salt, cook another 30 seconds. Pour in the Pacific Organic Low Sodium Vegetable Broth and almond milk. Bring to a simmer then add in the chopped poblanos. Simmer for 10 minutes then stir in the vegan cream cheese. Taste for salt and add more if necessary. If desired, use an immersion blender to slightly puree the soup to a creamier texture. To serve, divide the soup between bowls and top with pico de gallo and the avocado.

Cream of Wild Mushroom Soup

We had just returned from a long road trip, and our kitchen was taken over by another cooking team, so my spouse decided that a soup was what we were going to contribute to the dinner we were going to, and we had a mixed bag of different mushrooms, so wild, some cultivated. It was a delicious outcome, using a Deborah Madison recipe, which takes us back to the days when we were solely vegetarian (ie. days that are long gone but remembered fondly). 3 Tbsp. Butter 1 yellow onion, sliced 1/4 c. flour 1 tsp. Salt 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 2 Tbsp. Parsley, chopped 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 pound mushrooms, roughly sliced or chopped 8 ounces mushrooms, thinly sliced for garnish (optional) 6 cups stock 1/2 cup light cream Pepper Chopped chives, parsley, or tarragon, sliced sauteed mushrooms for garnish 1. Heat the butter in a soup pot until it foams; then add the onion and salt. Cook over medium-high heat for 3 minutes to soften the onion, stirring frequently. 2. Add the garlic, parsley, and cook 2 minutes more. Pour in the wine, raise the heat, and reduce it for another 3 minutes. 3. Add the mushrooms and stew them with the onion over medium-low heat for 6-8 minutes, giving them a stir partway through the cooking. Add the flour, and stir for another couple of minutes. Pour in the stock and bring it to a boil. Lower the heat, add the bread, and simmer for 20 minutes. 4. Let the soup cool slightly; then either briefly puree it in a blender, leaving small pieces of mushroom, or puree it longer, making a smooth, creamy soup. Heat the soup again and stir in the cream. Taste it and season with more salt, if needed, and freshly ground black pepper. Serve with the fresh herbs or crème fraîche in each bowl. I saute some sliced fresh mushrooms and add them to the soup just before serving.

Pumpkin Peanut Soup

November has been a month of cooking East African food every week, but this week I made this recipe, which I saw in the New York Times that heralds from West Africa.  It is appealing on several levels.  First, peanut butter as a component of soup give you depth of flavor without much effort or adding salt.  Second, having a couple of potentially vegan options in your back pocket is always a good thing.  Then there is the fact this is largely a pantry soup, so if the food supply tightens because of the raging pandemic, then you can whip this up with what is on hand. I did not puree and it was very good that way too.

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, peeled and diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 4 garlic cloves, smashed
• 1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped
• ½ habanero or bird's eye chile
• 1 (14-ounce) can pumpkin purée
• 3-4 cups stock
• 1 (13-ounce) can coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon agave or honey (optional)
• ¼ cup unsweetened natural peanut butter
• Salt
• 2 tablespoons sliced fresh chives
• ¼ cup crème fraîche or yogurt (optional)

1. In a large stock pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and ginger, and cook, stirring frequently until softened and just beginning to brown around the edges, about 4 minutes. Stir in the chile and pumpkin purée, and whisk in the water or stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and allow to simmer on low, giving an occasional stir, for 20 minutes or until slightly reduced and thickened. Remove the chile after the soup simmers if you don’t care for much spice.
2. Add coconut milk, agave or honey (if using), and peanut butter to the pot. Using an immersion blender or working in batches in a standing blender, purée the soup until smooth. Season with salt and keep warm over low heat. Do not bring soup up to a simmer or boil at this point. (This reduces the risk of the oils in the peanut butter separating and breaking the soup's smooth texture.)
3. Divide soup between bowls, sprinkle with the chives and a dollop of crème fraîche or yogurt, or a drizzle of olive oil to make it vegan. Serve with a warm crusty baguette or chunks of warm sourdough for dipping.

 

 

 

Maine Fish Chowder

This is from a restaurant in Portland, Maine that we had a nice time at, and ate good food there as well, with my eldest son and his wife.  We were on a rare tour through New England rather than just going to Vermont (which is our norm) and we really enjoyed Maine.  My family is from there going back to before the Revolutionary War, and while I normally focus on lobster and clam chowder, this was really good.  My brother and his wife had sent us some Alaska Halibut and we subbed that for the cod.  Really good.

• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1 pound boneless, skinless cod fillet, about 1-inch thick
• Kosher salt
• 1 pound sea scallops (or use more cod, some hake or another firm fish)
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium white or yellow onion, diced into 1/4-inch cubes
• 1 pound all-purpose potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch cubes
• ¼ pound bacon, sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch strips (optional)
• 2 quarts fish stock or dashi (Japanese fish broth, such as Hondashi bonito soup stock)
• 1 to 2 fresh thyme sprigs, or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Toasted nori sheets or seaweed snacks, crumbled into very small pieces, or dried seaweed flakes (optional)
• Snipped chives or minced scallion greens, for serving

1. In a small pan over low heat, toast the peppercorns until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Coarsely grind and set aside.
2. Trim cod of any pin bones or bits of skin and cut into 1-inch cubes. Lightly salt the cubes all over and set aside on paper towels to drain. Rinse scallops very lightly under cold water. Cut into half-moons and set aside on paper towels to drain. Keep seafood refrigerated until ready to use.
3. In a large pot, melt butter over medium-high heat. When the butter is just sizzling, add onion and potatoes and cook, stirring, until the onions start to melt and the potatoes are gold at the edges, about 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, if using bacon, cook the strips in a hot skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Set aside on paper towels to drain.
5. Add stock, thyme and toasted peppercorns to pot and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes. The potatoes should not be cooked through.
6. Stir in cream and heat through over low heat. Taste and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper.
7. Just before serving, with the chowder simmering over low heat, stir in seafood and simmer until potatoes are soft and seafood is just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the bacon.
8. Ladle the chowder into bowls. You want each serving to be around 2 parts broth to 1 part chunky goodness. Use your fingers to crush the nori into powdery bits, if using, and sprinkle over the top of each serving. Place about 1 teaspoon chives in the center of each bowl and serve immediately.

 

Caldo Verde

I found this in my search for soup recipes that use chickpeas.  In looking further into it, I think the traditional version of this soup is not pureed, or at least not to the extent this is, and it is also less greens dense.  Since it is now well into the fall, the season when greens still abound because they are frost tolerant, but we know the season's end nears, this seems like a perfect option.  The other thing about this is that I have stewed and frozen quite a few greens this summer, and I can still manage to crank it out well into February while we wait for the tender Asian greens of the spring to arrive.  This recipe is vegetarian, but I think sausage can be added.

1. • 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil
   • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
   • 1 cup small-diced onions
   • 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
   • 8 cups mixed leafy greens (kale, collards, and mustard)
   • 1 cup no-salt-added chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
   • 1 quart stock
   • Salt
   • Freshly ground black pepper

Pour the olive oil into a large pot, and place over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the onions and paprika; lower the heat to medium; and cook, covered, until tender, 2 to 3 minutes.

Put the greens into a blender and blend until pureed (you may use a little water to help, or use the wand tool that comes with some blenders to force the greens to blend without water). Pour this mixture into the pot, increase the heat to high, and cook until the water has evaporated from the greens.

Pour two-thirds of the chickpeas into the blender with 1 cup of the stock and blend until smooth. Add the pureed chickpeas to the pot with the remaining chicken stock and chickpeas and bring to a simmer. Cook covered until the greens are tender and the soup has thickened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into four bowls and serve.

 

Tomato Coconut Chickpea Soup

I have slipped from my goal of cooking at least one legume from scratch each week of the pandemic--it was definitely related to having eye surgery, which threw me off my game for a month, but I am working on getting back to it.  And I have so many dried beans to work with that it really does make sense to do so.

I made quite a few chickpeas and was looking for a new way to have them, and turned up this soup from Love and Lemons.  They have a new vegan cookbook published this fall, and if this recipe is any indication, it could be a good one.

• 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 1 small yellow onion, chopped
• 2 big garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• ½ tablespoon balsamic vinegar, more to taste
• 1 14-oz. can of diced tomatoes
• a few pinches of sugar, optional
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme leaves
• 1 cup cooked chickpeas, drained and rinsed, plus extra for garnish
• 1 cup coconut milk, full fat or light
• red pepper flakes, optional for garnish
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat oil in a medium pot. Add the onion, garlic a few pinches of salt and pepper, and cook until the onion is translucent. Add the paprika and cook until fragrant (30 seconds or so). Add the balsamic vinegar and stir. Add the tomatoes, sugar and thyme leaves. Stir, then add the chickpeas, coconut milk and water. Cover and simmer for 20-30 minutes. Uncover and let cool slightly.
2. Transfer to a blender and puree. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding parmesan cheese, if desired. If the soup is thick add a little water to thin to your desired consistency.
3. Scoop into bowls and top with remaining chickpeas, red chile flakes and a drizzle of olive oil.

 

Shrimp Bisque

My youngest son and I were inspired to make a weeknight meal of fresh baked bread and soup.  Over the weekend we had a delicious shrimp bisque at a friend's house, and we worked to recreate that experience, reasonably successfully.

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined, shells reserved

4 cups seafood stock

3 tablespoons good olive oil

1 c. chopped onion

1 carrot, diced

1 tablespoon chopped garlic (3 cloves)

Pinch cayenne pepper

1/2 tsp. thyme

1/4 cup Cognac or brandy

2 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup half-and-half

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions

1. Place the shrimp shells and seafood stock in a saucepan and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain and reserve the stock. Add enough water to make about 3 1/2 cups. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven. Add the onions and carrots and cook them for 10 minutes over medium-low heat, or until the leeks are tender but not browned. Add the garlic and cook 1 more minute. Add the flour, some thyme, and the cayenne pepper cook over medium to low heat for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Sautee the shrimp in the butter until just done.   Add half the shrimp and the stock mixture to a food processor fitted with a steel blade and process until coarsely pureed. Put back into the stock pot.   Add the half-and-half and cook, stirring with a whisk, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Add the Cognac and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the pureed shrimp,  add salt and pepper, season to taste, and heat gently until hot but not boiling. Serve with parsley on top.

Corn and Butternut Squash Chowder

My son and friends made dinner for us this weekend, and we had leftover butternut squash and corn.  What to do?
Turn it into something else, is what I say--it is rare to have fresh corn and winter squash in the fridge at the same time, but if you find yourself in that situation, here is your solution.

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch chunks (about 5 cups)
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 10 oz. of corn
• 1 1/2 teaspoons curry powder
• Coarse salt and ground pepper
• 28 oz. of broth
• 1/2 cup heavy cream

1. In a large heavy pot, heat oil over medium-high; add squash and onion. Cook until onion is soft, about 6 minutes. Add corn and curry powder; cook until curry is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add broth and simmer until squash is tender, about 25 minutes. In a blender, blend half the soup until smooth. Return to pot and stir in cream; heat through over medium-low (do not boil).
   
   

New England Clam Chowder

I have a little bit of PTSD about New Years Eve, because last year I had three procedures and my bed was in the ICU.  I was seriously sick, and while I am sure that it is almost always the case when this happens, I was jarred by the rapidity that my deterioration commenced.  So I am happy to say that a festive meal was this years alternative.  And I do love clam chowder.

• 24 medium-size quahog clams, usually rated ‘‘top neck’’ or ‘‘cherrystone,’’ rinsed
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• ¼ pound slab bacon or salt pork, diced
• 2 leeks, tops removed, halved and cleaned, then sliced into half moons
• 3 large Yukon Gold potatoes, cubed
• ½ cup dry white wine
• 3 sprigs thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 cups cream
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• ¼ cup chopped parsley.

1. Put the clams in a large, heavy Dutch oven, add about 4 cups water, then set over medium-high heat. Cover, and cook until clams have opened, approximately 10 to 15 minutes. (Clams that fail to open after 15 to 20 minutes should be discarded.) Strain clam broth through a sieve lined with cheesecloth or doubled-up paper towels, and set aside. Remove clams from shells, and set aside as well.
2. Rinse out the pot, and return it to the stove. Add butter, and turn heat to medium-low. Add bacon or salt pork, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the pork has started to brown, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove pork from fat, and set aside.
3. Add the leeks to the fat, and cook, stirring frequently, until they are soft but not brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in potatoes and wine, and continue cooking until wine has evaporated and the potatoes have just started to soften, approximately 5 minutes. Add enough clam broth to just cover the potatoes, approximately 3 cups, reserving the rest for another use. Add the thyme and the bay leaf.
4. Partly cover the pot, and simmer gently until potatoes are tender, approximately 10 to 15 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, chop the clams into bits about the size of the bacon dice.
6. When potatoes are tender, add cream and stir in chopped clams and reserved bacon. Add black pepper to taste. Let come to a simmer, and remove from heat. (Do not let chowder come to a full boil.) Fish out the thyme and the bay leaf, and discard.
7. The chowder should be allowed to sit for a while to cure. Reheat it to a bare simmer before serving, then garnish with chopped parsley. Serve with oyster crackers.

Tomato Lentil Soup

This recipe is absolutely better the next day, and since it doesn't take much time to cook lentils, it can definitely be made in the evening for the following day.  The other thing about it is that you can add or subtract lots of vegetables to this, and it is always good.  This time of year I have some straggling vegetables in my refrigerator, not at their best, but still usable.  This is a great way to use them all up and have a satisfying meal.

• 1 cup lentils, washed and picked over
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 carrot, diced or some winter squash diced, or both
• 1 stalk of celery, diced
• 1 sweet pepper, chopped 
• Salt to taste
• 1 c. chopped tomatoes
•   6 cups stock
• Thyme and a bay leaf
• Freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy soup pot or Dutch oven, and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetables, and a generous pinch of salt, and continue to cook for another 5 minutes until tender. Add the tomatoes and spices, and cook, stirring often, until the tomatoes have cooked down somewhat and smell fragrant, about 10 minutes. Add the lentils, water and salt to taste. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently one hour. Taste and adjust seasonings. Remove the bay leaf, and stir in the parsley. Serve, garnishing each bowl with Parmesan or Gruyère.

Gazpacho Soup

This is such a classic for the summer, and I finally have an abundance of all the ingredients from either my own garden or my CSA that it seemed like the right time to make this cold soup from Spain  And it has almost no calories per serving, which is an added plus.  This is an adaptation from the New York Times recipe.  Their web site has such a great way to organize and find the recipes they have that I use, that they are becoming my go to on line site these days.

About 2 pounds ripe red tomatoes, cored and roughly cut into chunks

1 pepper.  I used an Italian pepper but any long green pepper with no heat would be good              

1 cucumber, about 8 inches long, peeled and roughly cut into chunks

1 cup mild onion (white or red), peeled and roughly cut into chunks

 2 cloves garlic

2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, more to taste

Salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, more to taste, plus more for drizzling                                  

1. Combine tomatoes, pepper, cucumber, onion and garlic in a blender or, if using a hand blender, in a deep bowl. (If necessary, work in batches.) Blend at high speed until very smooth, at least 2 minutes, pausing occasionally to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula.
2. With the motor running, add the vinegar and 2 teaspoons salt. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil. The mixture will turn bright orange or dark pink and become smooth and emulsified, like a salad dressing. If it still seems watery, drizzle in more olive oil until texture is creamy.
3. Strain the mixture through a strainer or a food mill, pushing all the liquid through with a spatula or the back of a ladle. Discard the solids. Transfer to a large pitcher (preferably glass) and chill until very cold, at least 6 hours or overnight.
4. Before serving, adjust the seasonings with salt and vinegar. If soup is very thick, stir in a few tablespoons ice water. Serve in glasses, over ice if desired. A few drops of olive oil on top are a nice touch.

Crema de Chile Soup

We just ate at one of my absolute favorite regional Mexican restaurants that is in a small town.  It is a gem.  Such restaurants are common in France (admittedly they are likely to be serving French food, but prepared by a talented chef).  My youngest, a hard to please eater, loved the soup, and so my spouse made a version of it now that we are back home.  It is really delicious, and can be made with a range of green chiles (poblanos are the norm but we made it with Hatch green chiles because we have ever so many of them).

• 4 poblano chiles
• 1/2 tablespoon butter
• 1 medium white onion, thickly sliced
• 1/4 head garlic, cloves separated and skins removed
• salt and black pepper
• 2 sprigs epazote
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 3/4 cup milk
• 1 ounce requesón or ricotta
• 1/2 tablespoon fresh crema
• 2 corn tortillas
• canola oil

1. Place the poblanos over an open flame, turning often, until blackened on all sides. Transfer to a plastic bag and let steam for 15 minutes. Then peel the skin off, remove the stems and seeds, and cut into thin strips.
   
2. Add the butter to a large pot set over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until they are transparent. Then add the garlic and cook for 5 more minutes, being careful not to brown the garlic. Toss in the sliced poblanos and cook for 20 minutes, stirring often.
   
3. Add a pinch of salt and pepper, the epazote, and the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, and then reduce heat to low and cook for 15 minutes.
   
4. Puree the mixture in a blender. Return to the pot and pour in the milk. Heat gently. Then remove a 1/2 cup and mix it with the requesón in a small bowl. Add this back to the soup. Taste for salt.
   
5. Slice the tortillas into 1/2 inch thick strips. Pour a little canola oil into a skillet set over medium-high heat. Add a few of the tortilla strips and cook for a few seconds on each side until crisp. Drain on a paper towel. Repeat with the remaining strips.
   
6. Serve the soup with few few corn strips, some fresh corn kernals and some crema drizzled on top, or nothing if you so desire.

Thai Rice Soup with Pork Cilantro Meatballs

My spouse made this for me after I emerged from a hospitalization that left me hungry and debilitated.

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Jok, also called congee, is a rice porridge that’s like the oatmeal of Asia -- a soft, soothing, filling breakfast that can be sparked with add-ins and toppings for flavor and crunch. Before dawn in Bangkok, jok vendors begin the battle to make the juiciest meatballs, the tiniest ginger matchsticks and the liveliest pickled fresh chiles. This recipe, which also makes a great lunch on a chilly weekend morning, is adapted from two cooks: Leela Punyaratabandhu, author of Simple Thai Food, who makes a vendor-style, puddingy jok; and Chrissy Teigen, the Thai-American supermodel, who makes a simpler version, adapted from her mother Vilaluck’s home recipe.

For the meatballs:

• 2 large cloves garlic, peeled
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro roots or stems
• ½ teaspoon white peppercorns
• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce

For the soup:

• 1 cup jasmine or long-grain rice
• 6 cups light chicken stock (see note)

To finish:

• 6 to 8 eggs, optional
• Red chile powder (preferably Thai, but ancho or Aleppo will do)
• 1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
• 2 scallions, white and green parts, finely chopped
• ¼ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves
• Fish sauce and sriracha, for garnish

Preparation

Make the meat mixture:

1. Pound or grind the garlic, cilantro and white pepper together into a coarse paste. Transfer to a bowl and add the pork, oyster sauce and soy sauce. Mix well, cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.

Make the soup:

1. In a large heavy pot, combine the rice and stock and bring to a gentle boil, then reduce to a simmer. Simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and scraping up any starch from the bottom to prevent scorching. Add 2 cups hot water and simmer 30 minutes more. Add another 2 cups hot water and simmer 20 to 30 minutes more, until the rice begins to fall apart in the soup.
2. From the refrigerator, remove the dumpling mixture and the eggs, if using. Heat your serving bowls. Adjust the heat under the soup so that it bubbles gently. Pinch off pieces of the meat mixture to make bite-size balls, dropping them one at a time into the soup. When all of the meatballs have firmed up and turned opaque, about 2 to 3 minutes after adding the last one, the soup is ready.
3. To serve, scoop a ladleful of soup into a bowl. Crack one egg, if using, into the bowl. Gently ladle more hot soup over the raw egg, covering it completely. After about 4 minutes, the eggs will be softly cooked. Dust each bowl with chile powder and sprinkle with ginger, scallions and cilantro. Serve immediately, passing fish sauce and sriracha at the table. Each diner breaks the egg yolk and scoops up the egg with the soup. Note: Use a very light-bodied chicken stock. If using prepared or canned broth or bouillon cubes, dilute with water until the salt and chicken flavors are very mild.

Mexican Zucchini and Corn Soup

The summer is replete with squash--I get a handful in my CSA bag every week these days, and I keep trying to come  up with new ways to enjoy it (I will admit that grilling it is the fastest way to use a lot of it, but that is good only every week or two.  This is a good recipe for a change of pace.

1 qt. stock
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 onion diced
4 cloves garlic minced
1 medium potato diced
1-2 chipotle peppers with adobo
1 medium squash, sliced and quartered
3/4 c. corn
1 tomato diced
3/4 c. shredded cheese
oregano, salt, pepper, cilantro

Saute onion in 1 Tbs. olive oil until soft, then add garlic, stir for a minute, then add the stock, potato, and chipotle.  Simmer until potato is soft.  Turn off soup, add cheese and puree.  While potato is softening, saute the squash in 1 Tbs. olive oil at high heat so it will brown, add oregano, salt and pepper.  Once squash is cooked, turn burner off and add corn and tomato, so they will cook slightly.  Add to the pureed soup, stir, and top with fresh diced cilantro.

Green Soup

This soup is yet another way to enjoy the abundance of greens that spells summer.  There are a multitude of ingredients that you can use to make this soup, so I will start with one version, and end with variations.  The most important step is to turn the broth off as you add the greens so they retain their vibrant green color.

4 c. stock
1 onion diced
1 carrot diced
3-4 cloves of garlic minced
2 medium potatoes diced
1 bunch of greens coarsely chopped (I like kale, or kale and spinach, but any greens will work)

Saute the onions in a little olive oil until onions are becoming translucent then add carrot and garlic and saute a couple more minutes.  Add stock, potatoes, and some salt and pepper and put soup on a slow boil until potatoes are soft.  Turn off the heat, add the greens, stir until they wilt, and then puree (if you have a Vita mix, fantastic--the smoother the texture the better), and serve.

The potatoes add starch and heft to the soup so you do not have to add cream, but you can finish it off with that at the end if you want, or add a dollop of creme freshe or sour cream as you serve.

You can substitute rice or white beans for the potatoes if you prefer--or as might be the case, that is what you have in the fridge.

You can add mushrooms--think about the color of these--paler will keep the soup this bright green, which I think is one of it's biggest attractions.  The mushrooms add unami, another flavor dimension.

Winter Vegetable Soup with Coconut Milk and Pear

This is a delicious blend of flavors, and it is vegan to boot!

3 Tbs. unsalted butter           

1-1/2 cups thinly sliced onion

1 cup medium-diced carrot

1 cup medium-diced parsnip

1 cup medium-diced turnip

1 cup medium-diced parsley root or celery root

1/2 cup finely chopped inner celery stalks with leaves

1 cup thinly sliced Savoy cabbage

1 Tbs. peeled, minced fresh ginger

1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves; more leaves lightly chopped for garnish

1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

13-1/2- or 14-oz. can coconut milk (do not shake)

2 cups stock          

3-1/2 cups 1/2-inch-diced butternut squash (from a 2-lb. squash)

2 pears, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (1-1/4 cups)

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Stir in the onion, carrot, parsnip, turnip, parsley or celery root, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 8 minutes. Stir in the cabbage, ginger, thyme, garlic, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage begins to soften, about 3 minutes.
Scoop 1/4 cup of coconut cream from the top of the can and set it aside in a small bowl at room temperature. Add the remaining coconut milk, broth, and the squash and pears to the vegetables. Bring the mixture just to a boil over medium heat, stirring to scrape up any browned bits. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook at a bare simmer, stirring occasionally, until the squash is very soft, 20 minutes.
Purée with an immersion blender in the Dutch oven or in batches in a regular blender--betterstill, use a Vitamix. Pour the soup through a large coarse strainer set over a large glass measure or bowl. If the soup is too thick, add more chicken broth until thinned to your liking. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
If necessary, reheat the soup in a clean pot. Ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle with the reserved coconut cream, and sprinkle with the lightly chopped thyme.

Mushroom Barley Soup

There is nothing new about this soup--I have done nothing to make it new or different. But it is really spectacular in it's simplicity. It requires very little in terms of ingredients. Start with a chopped onion, saute it with a clove or two of minced garlic. Once they have softened, add a 1/2 pound of sliced mushrooms. You can also add some thyme, but I didn't this time. Once the mushrooms have lost most of their moisture, I add 6 cups of excellent stock and 1/3 c. of barley. For some reason I cannot recall (nor can I justify), I have about 8 cups of barley. Since barley expands to about 12 times it's original size when cooked, this is enough barley to feed a soup kitchen. I should be making something with barley every week if I had a proper commitment to emptying out my pantry. I am not up to that task. Either task, actually--not the barley surplus nor the pantry turnover. But this soup, after simmering on very low heat for 45 minutes is fantastic in an earthy (and inexpensive) way. I tossed in some left over pot roast shredded, but it can be completely vegetarian and equally good.