National Archeology Museum, Naples, Italy

This is an amazing museum, holding perhaps the best collection of art from the ancient world.  Originally a cavalry barracks, the museum was established by the Bourbon king Charles VII in the late 18th century to house the rich collection of antiquities he had inherited from his mother, Elisabetta Farnese.  The Farnese family had an enormous collection--much like the Borgia collection in Rome, on the one hand, it is obscene that one family would hoard this much art.  On the other hand, it remained a complete collection, and allows visitors today to see the art all in one place.  In any case, they had everything that could be considered artistically or historically valuable from the excavation of Pompeii and Herculaneum removed to their private collection, and this is where it all ended up.  Often exhibits are closed off (we missed the Borgia coin collection on the basement level, for example) but it is an awe inspiring collection.  If for no other reason, Napoli is a must see for any student of classics.


After ogling the impressive marble statues on the ground floor, head straight to the mezzanine floor, home to an exquisite collection of Pompeian mosaics. Of the series taken from the Casa del Fauno, it is La battaglia di Alessandro contro Dario (The Battle of Alexander against Darius) in Room LXI that stands out. The best-known depiction of Alexander the Great, the 20-sq-metre mosaic was probably made by Alexandrian craftsmen working in Italy around the end of the 2nd century BC--if it is at all accurate, and impressive looking young man, and by all accounts the best field commander known to the world. In room LIX, look out for the amusing Scene di commedia: musici ambulanti (Comedy Scene: Street Musicians), which portrays a drunken looking group of roving performers. Other outstanding mosaics include one of a cat killing a duck in Room LX and a study of Nile animals in Room LXIII.  I loved the animal mosaics best but they are less well respected.  The craftsmanship of these well prepared me for the mosaics that remain in Pompeii.


The rest of the 1st floor is largely devoted to fascinating discoveries from Pompeii, Herculaneum, Boscoreale, Stabiae and Cuma. Among them are breathtakingly vivid, mythologically themed wall frescoes from the Villa di Agrippa Postumus and the Casa di Meleagro, as well as a pair of gladiator's helmets, ceramics and glassware – even eggcups.  Really amazing the craftsmanship in the day to day housewares in the first century of the common era.  Unbeleivably beautiful as well as functional.

A word of caution--the 'Secret Rooms' of the museum, which house erotica from Pompeii may seem a little disappointing. It might represent the offerings at the bordello, but they were certainly not imaginative.  The inflated sense of phallus abounded, but judging from the statues, did not reflect the actual size of ancient male genitalia.  Don't miss it, but it is definitely not the highlight of the museum.