Orange Almond Madeleines

These are fantastic--they come from a very good cookie cookbook by Tish Boyle aptly called 'The Good Cookie'.  I don't know why it has taken me until now to discover the joy of the madeleine.  I read 'Swann's Way' when I was in college, and no one can argue that Proust did not do his damnedest to convince every reader, one and all, that the madeleine was a sublime bite of cake that was unparalleled in it's perfection.  I loved the book, but missed the message.  Then years later I was given a madeleine pan--still I did not succumb.  I admit that one madeleine pan is almost cruel, because when you make madeleines it makes most sense to make dozens of them at once, and that would entail washing and reusing the pan over and over again, and that simply would not happen in my kitchen.

The turning point in my love affair with the madeleine was a train trip from London to Glasgow.  I was in first class and in addition to a table with electricity and Wi-Fi, there was a drinks and food service that included what I am sure was an entirely ordinary madeleine, but I loved it.  I returned home, bought several madeleine pans, and have since passed the love of these on to my children.  This is the very best recipe, with the browned butter being a bit of a pain to make, but it is the secret ingredient.

1/2 cup slivered almonds

3/4 cup granulated sugar -- divided
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
5 large egg whites -- at room temperature
3/4 cup unsalted butter -- (11/2 sticks) cut into tablespoons
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon Fiori di Sicilia -- or orange extract (but mail order the Fiori di Sicilia--it is worth it)
For the Sugar Glaze:
1 cup confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter -- melted
3 tablespoons whole milk
1/4 teaspoon Vanilla extract
Equipment:
Two regular madeleine pans (don't use nonstick pans)

Make the batter
1. Place the almonds and 1 tablespoon of the sugar in the bowl of a food processor and blend until finely ground, about 1 minute. Transfer the almonds to a medium bowl. Add the remaining sugar, the flour, and salt and stir until well blended. Slowly whisk in the egg whites until blended.
2. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Continue to cook until the solids at the bottom of the pan turn light brown and the butter is fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk butter into the almond mixture until combined. Whisk in the vanilla extract and Fiori di Sicilia. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the batter for at least 2 hours, until cold (or up to 24 hours).

Bake the madeleines
3. Place two racks near the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Spray two madeleine pans thoroughly with nonstick cooking spray. Place the pans in the freezer for 10 minutes to set the spray.
4. Place a dollop of batter in each mold, filling them two-thirds full. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, or until the madeleines are golden brown and the centers spring back when lightly touched.  Sprinkle with confectioner's sugar and serve.