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Tuesday, March 18, 2025

Chez Noir, Carmel, California

I picked this out for the big splash dinner on my recent trip to the north end of the central California coast (spoiler alert--I prefer the sourthern end of the central coast--the north is just a little bit rich for my taste), and it did not disappoint. Unbeknownst to me, one of my dining companions doesn't care for high end dining. It often makes her feel belittled, which is not the look I was going for--and luckily, that did not happen here. The restaurant is actually on the first floor of the Craftsman-style house that chef Jonny Black and his wife, Monique Black, who manages the front of the house,live in. They make you feel as if you're being invited into their own home because it is their home.
The cooking draws upon French bistro fare and showcases the bounty of the California coast, with seafood, like spot-on sea bass and swoon-worthy abalone, making a big impression. If selecting from the many delectable dishes proves too difficult, opt for a set menu offering a tour of the greatest hits. For me, the abalone was unforgetable, the very best I have ever had, and I would go back to have it again and again. It is something to dream about. The next best was the agnolotti--which was on the vegetarian option side of the fixed price menu, and did not disappoint. And make sure you do not skip the the ethereal vanilla-scented canelés with an ideal balance of crisp caramelized exterior and creamy, custardy interior--better than most I had in Bordeaux!

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