Enhjørningen Fiskerestaurant, Bergen, Norway

This restaurant is upstairs in an old waterfront part of Bergen that is absolutely charming, and more importantly for us the afternoon we went that it opened for dinner at 4PM. We prioritized hotels with breakfast included (same price as those without and food is expensive in Norway), so we ate with abandon one meal a day. Admittedly, breakfast wouldn't be my first choice--or even my second choice--for that meal to be, but it is what it is and I do like a Scandanavian breakfast (or frokost). The downstream issue is that we were hungry early in the evening, maybe even by late afternoon and embraced a place that opened early. I loved the atmosphere in this restaurant--dark, heavy wooden floors and furniture, paintings of people and places from a century ago and a wonderful view of the water, and the comings and goings there.

We opted for two fish main courses, which were both delicious and perfectly cooked, but the memorable item that we ordered was a Skagen toast--which is a traditional Swedish dish that I fell in love with and had several more times throughout the trip, but never as good as it was right here. It is buttered brioche toast that is toasted, and then a tiny shrimp salad with dill is piled on top of it (I love the tiny succulant flavorful shrimp in Norway), then a scoop or roe, a few boiled shrimp scattered atop as well, and a wedge of lemon. I could eat that every day if it was on offer. And did for the rest of the trip.