Chronicles From The Land of The Happiest People On Earth by Wole Soyinka

This is an uncomfortable book to read. It goes beyond satire to a place that is almost on par with Dante's inferno. I read that the author renounced his United States citizenship after the 2016 election, when an openly racist, xenophobic misogynist was elected to the highest office, and he may as a result feel a bit stateless. The book tells the multidimensional story of a secret society dealing in human parts for sacrificial uses, whose members encompass the highest political and religious figures in the land. It details how the conspiracy and cover-up of this quasi-organization affect not only the life of the nation but, more specifically, the lives of four friends. This is essentially a whistleblower’s book. It is a novel that explodes criminal racketeering of a sinister and deadly kind that is operating in an African nation uncomfortably similar to Nigeria. It is a vivid and wild romp through a political landscape riddled with corruption and opportunism and a spiritual landscape riddled with fraudulence and, even more disquietingly, state-sanctioned murder. It is a difficult read that will leave you thinking for days if not more.

Pumpkin Peanut Soup

November has been a month of cooking East African food every week, but this week I made this recipe, which I saw in the New York Times that heralds from West Africa.  It is appealing on several levels.  First, peanut butter as a component of soup give you depth of flavor without much effort or adding salt.  Second, having a couple of potentially vegan options in your back pocket is always a good thing.  Then there is the fact this is largely a pantry soup, so if the food supply tightens because of the raging pandemic, then you can whip this up with what is on hand. I did not puree and it was very good that way too.

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, peeled and diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 4 garlic cloves, smashed
• 1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped
• ½ habanero or bird's eye chile
• 1 (14-ounce) can pumpkin purée
• 3-4 cups stock
• 1 (13-ounce) can coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon agave or honey (optional)
• ¼ cup unsweetened natural peanut butter
• Salt
• 2 tablespoons sliced fresh chives
• ¼ cup crème fraîche or yogurt (optional)

1. In a large stock pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and ginger, and cook, stirring frequently until softened and just beginning to brown around the edges, about 4 minutes. Stir in the chile and pumpkin purée, and whisk in the water or stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and allow to simmer on low, giving an occasional stir, for 20 minutes or until slightly reduced and thickened. Remove the chile after the soup simmers if you don’t care for much spice.
2. Add coconut milk, agave or honey (if using), and peanut butter to the pot. Using an immersion blender or working in batches in a standing blender, purée the soup until smooth. Season with salt and keep warm over low heat. Do not bring soup up to a simmer or boil at this point. (This reduces the risk of the oils in the peanut butter separating and breaking the soup's smooth texture.)
3. Divide soup between bowls, sprinkle with the chives and a dollop of crème fraîche or yogurt, or a drizzle of olive oil to make it vegan. Serve with a warm crusty baguette or chunks of warm sourdough for dipping.

 

 

 

Bariis

 

We are cooking African food this month and the Somali food is absolutely fabulous.  This is a flavorful Basmati rice.

• 2 cups Basmati rice
• 1/4 cup Olive oil
• 1 Medium red onion sliced
• 1 Cinnamon stick
• 4 Whole cloves
• 3 cloves Garlic minced
• 1/4 teaspoon Ground cardamom
• 1 Medium tomato chopped
• Kosher salt to taste
• 1/4 cup Raisins
• 2 tablespoons Xawaash spice
  

Rinse basmati rice in a medium bowl under cold water until the water runs clear. Then cover with cold water and set aside, at least 10 minutes or up to 30 minutes.

In a large pan, heat olive oil on medium-high heat until it shimmers. Then add sliced red onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion softens, about 5 minutes. Add cinnamon stick and cloves and continue cooking until spices smell fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes, then add ground cardamom and minced garlic and cook 1 additional minute.

Increase heat to high and add chopped tomato with a pinch of kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the tomato’s water has evaporated and you’re left with a jammy paste. Then drain basmati rice and add to the pot, stirring to coat the rice with oil. Fry rice for 5 minutes.

Stir xawaash into rice along with 4 cups of warm to boiling water, along with raisins and another pinch of salt. Stir well to combine and bring rice to a boil. Then reduce heat to a low simmer, cover pot, and cook until rice has absorbed all liquid, about 20 minutes. S

Doro Wat

We are deep into cooking from In Bibi's Kitchen, and when one of our kids said he would be passing through town and could we feed him last week, we said sure and made this along with a rice pilaf.  I now know that this is the national dish of Ethiopia and Eritrea, but I had never had it before.  So I have missed the most delicious chicken dish I have had in recent memory.  The heat and the spice and the chicken and the egg all marry well with each other.  I could not stop bringing the serving dish over and spooning just a bit more and then a bit more still of the sauce over the food on my plate.  I served with kachumbari, a fresh salad of tomatoes and avocados with lime squeezed over them.

3 Tbs. butter

2 large onions, finely diced

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tbs. minced ginger

3 Tbs. Berbere spice

1 tsp. Kosher salt

2 medium tomatoes, diced

1 cup water

8 chicken drumsticks

6 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat.  Ass the garlice, onion, and ginger, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the berbere and salt and cook until aromatic, about a minute.  Ass the tomatoes and cook until they are reduced to almost dry.  Add the water and increase heat to high until it boils.  Lower heat and maintain simmer.  season the chicken and nestle into the pot.  Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, and cook until chicken tender, about an hour.  Add eggs and heat them through.

Remove chicken and eggs to a serving dish.  Raise the heat and reduce the sauce to the desired consistency.  Spoon over the chicken and eggs, and serve.
 

Zanzibar Pilau

Lightly flavored rice taht is delicious.

• 1 cup long-grained white rice (preferably basmati)
  
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter (or ghee)
  
• 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
  
• 5 green cardamom pods
  
• One 2-inch piece cinnamon stick
  
• ¹/₂ teaspoon ground cloves
  
• ¹/₂ cup full-fat unsweetened coconut milk
  
• 1 cup boiling water
  
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Place the rice in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse with cold tap water, stirring the rice gently with your hands, until the water runs clear through it, about a minute of rinsing and stirring. Place the rinsed rice into a bowl, cover with cold water, and let it soak for at least 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, place the butter in a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. Once the butter has melted, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves, and cook, stirring, until the mixture smells very fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the coconut milk, water, and salt. Drain the rice through the sieve and add it to the pot. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice has absorbed the liquid and is tender, about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the rice sit, covered, off the heat for at least 10 minutes before fluffing with a spoon or a fork. Remove and discard the cinnamon and cardamom (if you can find them, they tend to hide—if you can’t find them, just warn your guests). Serve the rice immediately while it’s hot. Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator and warmed in a 300°F oven or over low heat in a skillet.

 

 

 

Suugo Suqaar

The Somali food in the new cookbook In Bibi's Kitchen is so fabulous, and this humble pasta sauce, an African Bolognese Sauce, is no exception.  It shares some things with the Italian version, in that it is ground meat that is cooked with onions and tomatoes for a long time to add flavor and tenderness to the sauce.  It has three full tablespoons of the Somali spice mix Xawaash, which gives the flavor depth and complexity that is worth savoring every bite of this meal.  Add in that a pound of the meat will cover 1.5 pounds of pasta, you also have an economical way to feed a crowd. this is amazing.

3 tbsp (45 mL) extra-virgin olive oil or canola oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 small green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 lb (454 g) ground beef
3 tbsp (45 mL) Xawaash Spice Mix (recipe follows)
1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt, plus more as needed
2 tbsp (30 mL) tomato paste
One 28-oz (825 mL) can diced tomatoes, with their juices
Cooked spaghetti (or whatever shape pasta you like) and coarsely chopped cilantro, for serving

Place the oil in a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the garlic, bell pepper and onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 8 minutes. Add the beef, Xawaash and salt and cook, stirring occasionally to break up the beef, until the meat is browned, about 15 minutes.

Add the tomato paste and diced tomatoes (and their juices). Fill the tomato can halfway with water and add it to the pot. Stir well to combine, being sure to scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom of the skillet. Increase the heat to high and bring the sauce to a boil, then decrease the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally as the sauce cooks, for 30 minutes. Season the sauce to taste with salt. Serve hot over cooked spaghetti, with the cilantro sprinkled on top. Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a few days and rewarmed in a heavy pot set over low heat (stir while you heat).

 

Digaag Qumbe

Yet another great recipe from Somalia, and using the spice mix Xawaash.  Coconut milk and yogurt add to the flavor.

3 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped (about 6 cups)

1 red bell pepper, seeds and membranes removed, coarsely chopped

2 jalapeños, seeds removed if you want less heat, coarsely chopped

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 onions, chopped

2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 1" piece fresh ginger, peeled, finely chopped (about 1 Tbsp.)

1 Tbsp. curry powder

1 Tbsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. ground turmeric

¼ tsp. ground cardamom

Kosher salt

1 cup plain yogurt

1 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 Yukon Gold potato, peeled, cut into ¾" cubes

1 carrot, peeled, cut into ¼"-thick coins

2 lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs, cut into 1" pieces

1 14-oz. can coconut milk

3 Tbsp. ghee (optional)

1 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped, plus whole leaves for serving

Steamed rice and/or spinach (for serving)

Step 1

Blend tomatoes, bell pepper, and jalapeños in a blender or food processor until almost smooth; set aside.

Step 2

Heat oil in a large pot over medium. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add ginger, cumin, curry powder, turmeric, and cardamom; season generously with salt. Cook, stirring, until very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add reserved tomato mixture to pot and stir well to combine. Stir in yogurt and tomato paste, cover pot, and simmer 10 minutes. Add potato and carrot and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are nearly tender, 15–18 minutes.

Step 3

Add chicken, coconut milk, ghee (if using), and 1 cup cilantro. Stir to combine, then simmer until chicken is tender and sauce thickens, about 20 minutes. Season with salt.

Step 4

Divide rice among bowls. Spoon chicken, vegetables, and sauce over. Top with cilantro leaves.

 

Xawaash Spice

This spice is the backbone of the Somali flavor, which is well worth the effort to make if you are going to delve into Somali cooking (which I recommend happen).  In cooking out of the new cookbook, In Bibi's Kitchen, I have realized that much like my discovery of regional Mexican cooking when I was in my 20's, there is a whole heck of a lot about African cooking that I know absolutely nothing about, and that is to my detriment.

One 2-inch (5-cm) piece cinnamon stick
1/2 cup (125 mL) cumin seeds
1/2 cup (125 mL) coriander seeds
2 tbsp (30 mL) black peppercorns
6 cardamom pods
1 tsp (5 mL) whole cloves
2 tbsp (30 mL) ground turmeric

Place the cinnamon stick in a small zip-top plastic bag, seal it and bang it a couple of times with a rolling pin, skillet or mallet (anything firm and heavy) to break it into small pieces.

Place the cinnamon pieces, cumin, coriander, peppercorns, cardamom and cloves in a small heavy skillet set over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the smell is very aromatic and the spices are lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Let cool. Transfer the mixture to a clean coffee grinder and grind into a fine powder (or use a mortar and pestle and some elbow grease). Transfer the ground spices to a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl and sift. Regrind whatever large pieces remain in the sieve and add them to the bowl with the ground spices. Add the turmeric. Whisk well to combine and transfer the mixture to an airtight jar. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.

Makes: about 1 1/4 cups (300 mL)

 

The Hand of Fatima

On my recent trip to Morocco, I was fascinated by the prevalence of the Hand of Fatima, which marks the house as a Muslim home.

It is an ancient talisman for protection against malocchio, commonly known as the Evil Eye. Since the dawn of time, humans have used symbols of protection against malocchio. Traditionally, it is believed that the curse of the Evil Eye may befall a person who is the target of willfully directed negativity in the form of envy, jealousy, or hatred. Some cultures adopted the eye as an amulet for protection while others favored the Hamsa (hand). Over time the two symbols were married and thus the Hand of Fatima was born.

This symbol is commonly seen hung at the threshold of homes where it is believed to guard the household and all who dwell there from the influence of negativity. The talisman is purported to offer special protection against fires making it a prominent fixture in many businesses.

Worn on the person as an amulet, the Hand of Fatima offers not only protection, but blessing. The wearer will be granted abundance, luck, vitality and will find the favor of benevolent forces. Many belly dancers have adopted the Hand of Fatima as a luck charm. It is considered most fortuitous to wear the talisman as a bracelet. This is especially potent when one finds themselves at a crossroads in life. The Hand of Fatima will shelter the bearer from obstacles, strife and adversity, helping the seeker transform fate into destiny.

The Hamsa is recognized as a sacred symbol in many cultures and religions including Judaism, Buddhism, Shamanism, Hinduism, Christianity, Jainism and Islamic belief. The Hamsa is a symbol of the "one hand that writes all" and has associations with Divinity. The Hand of Fatima can be seen both upright or upside down, depending on the culture. Additionally, the symbols featured within the hand are of significance and vary in different parts of the world. Despite variations, it is an archetypal motif that speaks across borders of language, cultural and religious belief.

Palais el Badi, Marrakesh

This site was a wonderful mix of old and new the day we were there.  The palace took twenty five years to build, with construction finally completed around 1593 and was a lavish display of the best craftmanship of the Saadian period, but at this point it is almost in ruins.  There are hints at it's former splendor, but that is what they are--hints.

El-Badia Palace is hidden behind its red coloured pisé walls and apparently it can be a bit tricky to find. After entering through the so called Green Pavilion we came in the enormous courtyard with four sunken gardens with orange trees and a swimming pool. Going to the left we reached a staircase - just behind a nice fountain with zellij tile work - to a viewing point with views of the courtyard and the remains of the of the palace (to the other side is a view over the roofs of Marrakech to the Koutoubia Mosque, with some stork nests nearby on the ramparts).  Don't miss the dungeon and the restored minbar (in the only renovated part of the palace).  But the real point is the scale of the place, which reflects the scale that the sultans lived on.

Moroccan Lamps, Lanterns, and Lighting

Sometimes you bring home everything that you see on a trip that appeals to you and sometimes there is so much that to have it all is just not possible.  The later was my experience on my recent trip to Morocco--to give you an idea of that, I got home over three months ago and I am still writing about it.  I will not be able to write all that I think about Morocco either!

One of the things that I left for the next trip is a glimpse of the Sahara Desert, which is a popular tourist destination, and the other very appealing thing that I left behind was a Moroccan light.  I love the metal lampshades that are ubiquitous--they come in all shapes and sizes and patterns, and the light that falls upon the room walls is magical and artistic and reminds me of long ago tales of North Africa.

The one glitch in my love affair with Moroccan lampshades is that I live in a Vicotrian house that was built in the American Civil War--it is just not the sort of house that you can picture being lit up with Moroccan lights.  That is the part that I have to figure out before I go back--exactly where would I put such a beautiful light to fit just right into the space that it is in.  In the meantime, I have the memories of what I loved--and one of my friends has some of these magical lights in their house and I can visit them there.

Palais de la Bahia, Marrakesh, Morocco

This site is not particularly old by Moroccan standards, but those are high standards indeed.  It was begun in the mid-19th century, but the embelleshment of the palace, which is what makes it so spectacular, was done at the end of the 19th century, employing the best artisans in the land for 14 years.  No wonder it is so amazing.  The one take home message from a trip to Morocco is that htis is a place where artisans still know how to use their hands.

 

The El Bahia palace is situated in the south of the Medina and is approached by a long garden driveway.Once inside you are directed by arrows on the wall which take you through a succession of rooms and courtyards.The decoration in the rooms with the tiling,carved wooden doors and ornate ceilings gives you a good idea of what is exquisite about Moorish architecture, especially if you are not venturing beyond Marrakesh.

Moroccan Slippers

I arrived in Morocco having seen pictures like these in every guide book I looked at--and it was not an exaggeration--these slippers were everywhere.  They come in many different shapes and colors.  Some of them have backs and some of them dont.  Someof them are wide toed and someof them have the pointed toes.  They come with embellishment or plain.  It was very clear fromt he very first day that it would not be hard to find these shoes.

 I knew that I needed to get a pair of the pointed toed Aladdin shoes, even if I rarely wore them, because they are so iconic of the place.  I bought them at the leather cooperative in Fes, where I first learned that tanning leather is a very smelly business indeed and that I have an unaccoutnable love of goat skin that I will endeavor to deny for the sake of goats everywhere.  I bought a pair, and in retrospect I wish that I had bought quite a few pairs to give away.  they are inexpensive and marvelous at the same time.  Not to mention that they bring a smile to your face when you see them.

The Camel's Eye View

Riding a camel was not the only touristy thing that I did while I was in Morocco--I bought a rug, I had my head wrapped into a turban, I bought a fez and balloon pants, and I seriously considered changing all the light fixtures in my house into the wonderful brass lamp coverings that I saw everywhere-- but a camel ride is the obvious choice for the most touristy thing that I did.
Pictured here are the two camels my son and I rode, and he atop his camel. 

Here are my retrospective thoughts on the experience.  First and foremost, it is a shock when the camel stands up.  I was completely unprepared for the sudden altitude change.  One minute I am easily climbing onto the camel's back and seemingly instantaneously to that I am 12 feet off the ground and holding onto the saddle with a death grip.  Once I reassured myself that I was indeed atop the camel, I hung on for dear life and the rest of the ride was pretty enjoyable.  For about 15 minutes.  After that I became seriously concerned that if my life depended on me riding a camel to safety that I might fail at the task.  That is a very wide hump.  The muscles on my inner thighs were not conditioned for a long stroll in the savannah on camel back.  The good news is that I was once again on terra firma in about 60 minutes, and after the shock of going up, I was better prepared for the speed with which the camel descended to the earth and managed to disembark the ride with a modicum of grace.  I know it is the ultimate desert cliche but in the end, I would recommend a camel ride.

The Berber Colors

One of the many things that I loved about my recent trip to Morocco was learning more about the ancient tribe of Morocco--the Berbers.  As with any ancient tribal culture, it is not so much one culture but many, but there are similarities that bind them together. 

One is the colors that repeat in their hand crafts--the tiles pictured above are the artisanal interpretation of the colors that are found in the Atlas Mountains, pictured below.  Once I understood that, I started to find the things that are man made in these colors more organic, more in harmony with the environment that they come out of, and the more they remind me of my Moroccan trip.

I was visiting a friend recently who had just come back from India.  Like me she had bought a rug (and like me it was more beautiful than she imagined the rugs in India to be, and also more expensive than what she thought she would come home with), but in addition to that she bought a tile table.

I visited a place where tile tables were definitely and option, but after the rug (and a beautiful set of hand painted dishes in Berber colors) I felt a table was, well, off the table, but I think that will be the purchase of the next visit.

Moroccan Berbers

No trip to Morocco would be complete without an examination of the native culture.  There are two things that I wish that I had done on my recent trip and spending more time in the mountains, learning more about Berber culture is one of those things.  I did manage to come home with a Berber rug, but that just whetted my taste.

Berber history goes back to prehistoric times-- their culture has been around for at least 4000 years or maybe more. Calling themselves Amazigh, the proud raiders, they fought against the Romans, Arab, and French invaders. Even though the Romans and others have tried to colonize the Berber people, they have managed to preserve their own language and culture and in reality were never beaten!
Berber language is primarily oral in nature, although they have had their own writing system for more than 2500 years. Modern Moroccan Arabic is strongly influenced by the native Berber language.

They are a cafe au lait skinned people and have been called by many names: Libyans by the ancient Greeks, Numbians by the Romans, and Moors by medieval Europe.  Islam came to the Berbers in the ninth and tenth centuries. Prior to then, most Berbers across Africa were Christian or Jewish. Two great Islamic Berber dynasties, Almoravids and Almohads, ruled large parts of Spain and northwest Africa.  Today, most of the twenty-seven million Moroccans are either Berbers, Arabs, or Moors (people of Berber/Arab decent). Their ancestors became the Almoravids and Almohads that built the mighty Moorish empire that ruled Spain, Portugal and Northern African.

There are many of today’s Berbers who continue to live in the mountains of Morocco while the Arabs and Moors live in the cities, though it is very common these days to see Berbers running, owning and operating small shops and other commerce endeavors.
Stories have characterized Berbers as nomads using camels to cross the Sahara desert. Most today are farmers of the mountains and valleys in Morocco. They were traders in the earlier days. Berber’s long recorded influence affected commerce by establishing trading routes between the West African and the Sub-Saharan region. They transported goods from beyond the Sahara desert to the Northern Moroccan cities. Merchants were considered in a higher class than the farmers, however, through history the roles have mostly been reversed.  Think about a mountain visit if you are going to Morocco to learn more about this ancient culture.

Tanning Leather the Old Fashioned Way, Morocco

This enormous rooftop leather tanning and dying operation is a sight to behold.  Located right in the center of the medina in Fes, it is a craft that is still done the way that it was hundreds of years ago.  When you enter the building you are handed a sprig of mint to hold under your nose should the smell of the pigeon excrement that is used to dye the leather prove overwhelming, but in reality, the area is so large that you hardly notice the smell.  Well, almost.

The thing that I learned that day, besided the fact that I definitely did not appreciate the work invovled in dying leather and that I am blessed not to have this as my job, was that I really find goat skin incredibly soft and supple.  I did not make a purchase that day, but I filed that information away for some future time when I might be able to use it.

The Merrakesh Medina, Morocco

The really difficult thing about the medina in Marrakesh is that they allow vehicles--so there is a stifling aroma of incompletely combusted exhaust that is combined with the nudging on the backs of your legs from scooters and motorcycles that want you to hug the souk walls so that they can zoom by, the occassional car might even try to squeeze by a visitor, to the point that within minutes of entering the medina you are ready to sign the petition to make it a vehicle free zone.  Give me the 'Balack' and the donkeys any day!

Once one gets deeper into the medina, the impressive thing is how many people are making things with their hands.  Chess pieces are being whittled with an ingenious foot operated contraption, leather is being cut, boxes are being assembled and the list goes on and on.  I especially liked the tin work being done, and the spectacular lights that were being produced.  The art of making things with your hands is alive and well in Morocco.

The other thing that I liked was that while there are plenty of tourists mingled in the crowds, the medina is largely populated by locals, people who are there to do their shopping and are not there to ogle the craftsmen.

Goods are not the only thing to go to the medina for--there are food items to be had as well.  I bought some spice mixtures in Rabat and felt that I had enough in that exotic arena to last me once I got home,  but I never tired of seeing the mounds of spices piles high in front of shops that mixed and sold spice combinations--these are for show, but they are works of art.

In retrospect, I should have gotten more tassels while I was there--they are everywhere and very inexpensive, decorated with bits of metal, and very festive.  I have ceiling fans through out my house and could have them dangling from each of them--I left them for a return trip!

The Red City--Merrakesh, Morocco

Just as Casablanca is white, Marrakesh is the  pink color of the traditional  terra cotta.  It is beautiful to behold as a sensory experience.

Then comes the city itself. 
Everywhere you go in Marrakech, you end up chatting and haggling. And even if you don’t agree on a price and end up walking away, the most important thing—Moroccans say—is to leave avec un sourir. To enjoy Marrakech, you definitely need to keep a sense of humor, otherwise the endlessly creative “friends” and “guides” will only annoy you, and the constant attention and haggling of the medina will become tiring. Be prepared for an overload of sensory experiences: the smell of mint mixed with saffron, oils, and perfumes, tanned leader, tagines cooking on the street, de-blooding chickens, buckets full of escargots, exhaust fumes, and the occasional donkey dung. Merchants trying to attract your attention, men young and old selling hashish, mopeds honking incessantly, people approaching you offering their services or simply asking where you’re from and welcoming you to Morocco. Women hidden behind the Islamic veil offering henna tattoos administered through plastic syringes, snake enchanters, storytellers, and men with trained monkeys happy to climb all over you for a picture and a few dirham.
 

Fes Ceramics, Morocco

Morocco is a land of people who still make things with their hands, and it is an excellent experience to go to the places where things are made and watch people who have tremendous skill produce works of art.

The city of Fes is known for its handmade ceramics. Each plate is hand painted. The blue and white color and the polychrome design (with green, yellow, and white) are the most common colors used. The designs are often based on geometric designs that are similar to those found in the mosaics of Morocco where the design repeats outward from one central point. Arabesque designs are also common and even Arabic calligraphy can be painted onto a ceramic. On the top of the photo are Moroccan tajines, ceramic cooking and serving vessels. The name tajine is also given to the delicious stews that are cooked in these ceramics.

Pictured here are two people making ceramics in Fes.  The potter is shaping small tagines for the table (used to store salt or pepper or cumin) and the woman is carefully and beautifully hand painting ceramics to be glazed.  Moroccans agree, the green clay of Fes produces the strongest pottery, and the techniques used to decorate the pottery are handed down from generation to generation.  It is extraordinary to watch the speed and precision of these painters at work.  The added bonus is that there are minor differences between the pieces so that you can tell that the final pieces have been painted by hand--I so loved everything that I saw at this shop it was hard not to want to ship it all!

I did get this set of dishes--I have always wanted to have hand painted dishes, and have been on the look out for something that I would both love and use for over a decade.  I would have predicted that I would have found the dishes of my heart's desire in Mexico, but that was not the case.  I am as surprised as anyone that I fell in love with this set.  The tagine in particular is just beautiful.