Bếp Mẹ ỉn (Le Thanh Ton Street), Ho Cho Min City, Vietnam

This is a Bib Gourmand restaurant on the Michelin website. As an aside, and as this is the last restaurant we ate at in Vietnam, and I haven't mentioned this, this is my last opportunity to do so, but I am very happy that there are Michelin rated restaurants in Vietnam. Is it flawless? No. They do look at places that are noodle places, but really just pho restaurants, which as far as I am concerned is not the greatest broth and noodle dish that Vietnam has to offer, but in doing so, Michelin elevates the cuisine. The only downside is that the places we ate at without this recognition were amazing, and they were also places where we ate our fill, each had a beer, and the bill was well under ten dollars. In any case, at this place, which is traditional South Vietnamese food, there were quite a few people like us, there because of Michelin, and from all over the world. I got a chance to teach some South Koreans how to use the translucent but not rehydrated rice paper to eat their Bánh Xèo with, which was very pleasureable.

The food here is really good, and the menu is much more varied than many more traditionally Vietnamese restaurants where we ate are--so it is likely to be geared to us as tourists. We ate at one restaurant in Hue that was this varied, and while there were many Vietnamese eating there, many of our fellow patrons were like us. In any case, it is worth trying this place and places like this, especially if you are on a short trip. We were in country for two weeks and I feel like I barely got started on cracking the code on Vietnamese food. I laughed at a characterization of the Vietnamese that I read in a memoir I am reading by a việt kiều (an overseas Vietnamese person) that characterized the Vietnamese as a skinny people obsessed with food.

Independence Palace, Ho Chi Min City, Vietnam

Surrounded by royal palm trees, the 1960s architecture of this landmark government building and the eerie ambience of its deserted halls make it an intriguing spectacle. The first Communist tanks to arrive in Saigon rumbled here on 30 April 1975 and it’s as if time has stood still since then. The building is deeply associated with the fall of the city in 1975, yet it's the kitsch detailing and period motifs that steal the show. It's also known as the Independence Palace. After crashing through the wrought-iron gates – in a dramatic scene recorded by photojournalists and shown around the world – a soldier ran into the building and up the stairs to unfurl a VC flag from the balcony. In an ornate reception chamber, General Minh, who had become head of the South Vietnamese state only 43 hours before, waited with his improvised cabinet.

This building clearly holds significance for the Vietnamese--not only were we very under-represented as Americans touring an iconic Vietnamese building, many of the visitors were in groups, from the veterans on the front lawn posing in front of the tank that stormed the gates so many years ago, to groups of youth, the palace that was for the most part uninhabited remains fixed in time, with it's red reception room representing power, it's green meeting room decorated to promote negotiation, and the yellow dining room to advance good digestion, it is stuck in the time when the modern Vietnam began. And to remind each visitor that it had a violent pastm there is a Huey on the roof. If you get to Saigon, this is a must see.

Dim Tu Tac, Saigon, Vietnam

Saigon is an overwhelmingly large city, with 12 million people, and while people drive slightly less crazily than in the rest of Vietnam, and it is easier to cross the street here than anywhere else we were, we were still committed to walking to dinner, and trying to make it a 1/2 hour radius around our hotel. There are a number of well reviewed European restaurants in Saigon, but we were interested in staying in the Asian food realm, and chose this one, which is Cantonese food with a Michelin Bib Gourmand rating.

The restaurant is continuously open in the afternoon to evening, which is another plus, because we enjoy eating our last meal of the day earlier than most these days. We do not have even an acceptable Chinese restaurant in our town, so this was a real treat for us. The duck, which is a favorite of my spouse, was the highlight, but every dish we got was excellent, and we would highly recommend this if you were willing to veer off the Vietnamese cuisine path for a meal.

Ancestral Temples, Hoi An, Vietnam

Ancestral Temples in Hoi An. We were here on the eve of Hung King Commenoration Day, a holiday dedicated to remembering. Since Confucianism was introduced to Vietnam during the Chinese domination, filial piety, the most fundamental of Confucian values, is very influential and important to Vietnamese families. Accordingly, children are obliged to respect their parents in life and to remember them after they die. The practice of ancestor worship is thus an expression of filial piety toward deceased parents, relatives and ancestors.

These incense coils (which pack flat if you would like to bring one home to burn in your own temple, or you can purchase one here, and they will burn for you) are very cool! Ancestral Temples in Hoi An. We were here on the eve of Hung King Commenoration Day, a holiday dedicated to remembering. Since Confucianism was introduced to Vietnam during the Chinese domination, filial piety, the most fundamental of Confucian values, is very influential and important to Vietnamese families. Accordingly, children are obliged to respect their parents in life and to remember them after they die. The practice of ancestor worship is thus an expression of filial piety toward deceased parents, relatives and ancestors.

Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An Ancient town is located in Viet Nam’s central Quang Nam Province, on the north bank near the mouth of the Thu Bon River that at one point was the capital of ancient Vietnam. The town reflects a fusion of indigenous and foreign cultures (principally Chinese and Japanese with later European influences) that combined to produce this unique survival. This is considered a "must see" city in central Vietnam, and it is charming, to be sure--the City of Lanterns. We didn't avail ourselves of this, but we hear a woman talking at some length about taking a class in lantern making. This was a stop where we did typical tourist things, like traditional performances and a canal boat ride in a round woven boat. We stayed at a resort, sat by the pool and ate at restaurants where we could have ice and lettuce.

The town comprises a well-preserved complex of 1,107 timber frame buildings, with brick or wooden walls, which include architectural monuments, commercial and domestic vernacular structures, notably an open market and a ferry quay, and religious buildings such as pagodas and family cult houses. The houses are tiled and the wooden components are carved with traditional motifs. We liked it here, but I think if I were to do it over again, I would spend more time in Northern Vietnam. As Americans we are more familiar with the south, but culturally and artistically, the North is where it is at.

My Son, Quảng Nam, Vietnam

Between the 4th and 13th centuries a unique culture which owed its spiritual origins to Indian Hinduism developed on the coast of contemporary Viet Nam. This is graphically illustrated by the remains of a series of impressive tower-temples located in a dramatic site that was the religious and political capital of the Champa Kingdom for most of its existence.

The property is located in the mountainous border Duy Xuyen District of Quang Nam Province, in central Viet Nam. It is situated within an elevated geological basin surrounded by a ring of mountains, which provides the watershed for the sacred Thu Bon river. The source of the Thu Bon river is here and it flows past the monuments, out of the basin, and through the historic heartland of the Champa Kingdom, draining into the South China Sea at its mouth near the ancient port city of Hoi An. The location gives the sites its strategic significance as it is also easily defensible.

The tower temples were constructed over ten centuries of continuous development in what was the heart of the ancestral homeland of the ruling Dua Clan which unified the Cham clans and established the kingdom of Champapura (Sanskrit for City of the Cham people) in 192 CE. During the 4th to 13th centuries CE this unique culture, on the coast of contemporary Viet Nam, owed its spiritual origins to the Hinduism of the Indian sub-continent. Under this influence many temples were built to the Hindu divinities such as Krishna and Vishnu, but above all Shiva. Although Mahayan Buddhist penetrated the Cham culture, probably from the 4thcentury CE, and became strongly established in the north of the kingdom, Shivite Hinduism remained the established state religion.

Sum - Lò Bánh Mì Điện, Hoi An, Vietnam

This was it. THis was the best banh mi we have had. Our guide recommended it (even in this tourist town, you can find good street food), and we were so happy with it. The bread was perfect, the fillings flavorful, and the pickles and the heat level were very good. Yes, it is a cart, but the choices available were excellent, and the price, as was true of all the Vietnamese food for Vietnamese people (ie. not tourists) was $1.25. We did struggle some with the issue of fresh vegetables and the water being felt by all we talked to to be unsafe, at least for us. So we were uber cautious at the front end of the trip, but allowed a little bit of leeway at the end, when we were soon to be headed home and able to recuperate from whatever might ail us. Happy to report there were no such repercussions.

Lap An Lagoon, Vietnam

Lap An Lagoon is a large brackish lagoon, located right at the foot of Hai Van Pass, surrounded by the majestic Bach Ma mountain range, in front of the gentle Lang Co Bay with emerald green water. Not only famous for its poetic beauty, Lap An Lagoon is also the source that supplies a large amount of seafood for the fishermen of this area. Lap An Lagoon is known as the "Oyster Kingdom of Hue". According to the locals, the oyster in this place is a gift from nature, receiving absolutely no human influence, and is available all year round without any farming effort. That is why many people joke that if one does not eat oysters in Lap An, they cannot claim to have come here. Today, however, oysters are farmed for both pearls and meat. We stopped en route to Hoi An to have an egg coffee, and while the men's room was located around the back, the women's room required exiting through the gift shop.

Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam

Thien Mu Pagoda (namely Heaven Fairy Lady Pagoda), also known as Linh Mu Pagoda, is one of the most fascinating and ancient pagoda in Hue city. It is situated on Ha Khe hill, on the north bank of the Perfume River, in Huong Long village. The name of the pagoda derives from a special legend. Long time ago, an old woman appeared on the hill where the pagoda stands today, telling local people that a Lord would come and build a Buddhist pagoda for the country’s prosperity. Lord Nguyen Hoang therefore ordered the construction of the pagoda for the “Heaven Fairy Lady”.

The most striking feature of the pagoda, Phuoc Duyen tower (initially called Tu Nhan tower), was erected in 1884 by King Thieu Tri, and has become the unofficial symbol of Hue. This octagonal tower has seven storeys (2m high), which is dedicated to a Buddha who appeared in human form. It is the highest stupa in Vietnam, and is often the subject of folk rhymes and cadao about Hue, such is its iconic status and association with the city. More importantly, it is regarded as the unofficial symbol of the former imperial capital.

Quán Hạnh, Hue, Vietnam

The food here was exceptional, and I would definitely go back. It had the added advantage of being an easy walk from our hotel, but the quality of the food was top notch, the prices did not add up to $10 for us, and the wait staff worked very hard to help us understand how we were supposed to eath each and every dish. Here is a run down on our meal. —Bánh Bo—eat with a spoon! Steamed. rice cake filled with savory ingredients including chopped fresh shrimp, served with sweet fish sauce and chilli. Bánh Bèo is very popular in the Central of Việt Nam —Bánh Khoái - Rice pancake—Vietnamese savory fried pancake made of rice flour stuffed with pork, shrimp, diced green onion, carrot and bean sprouts served with vegetable and peanut saluce. This required the most tutoring. —Nem Lụi - Hanh's speciality—we had these lemongrass grilled pork sausages in Hanoi, but here you add pickles and wrap in rice paper —Bánh cuốn thịt nướng - BBQ pork wrap in moisture rice paper —Nem rán - Fried spring roll—Made from pork, mushroom, diced carrot and seasoning, rolled up in a sheet of moist rice paper and fried until the rice paper coat turns crispy, served with sweet-and-sour fish sauce. Very unusual wrapper texture, which we liked as we got used to it Bánh Nậm: Bánh nậm is a traditional Vietnamese dumpling origianting from Hue. The batter is made with a combination of rice and tapioca flour, sugar, and salt, while the filling consists of shrimps, minced pork, salt, pepper, sugar, shallots, annatto oil, and green onions. The rectangular and flat dumplings are wrapped in banana leaves, then steamed Bún bò Huế—It’s a rich and spicy soup with deep layers of flavor. This Central Vietnamese soup is paired with tender slices of beef and pork, pork meatballs, then topped with lots of fresh herbs. My favorite noodle soup to date!

Imperial Citadel, Hue, Vietnam

We started the (very hot) day at the Hue Historic Citadel—it is a walled fortress that served as the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty, the last feudal dynasty in Vietnam, from 1802 to 1945. It is situated on the northern bank of the Perfume River. In the 19th century. Emperor Gia Long relocated the nation's capital from Thang Long (today’s Hanoi) to Hue. He built a palace complex in Hue that was modeled after Beijing's Forbidden City. Geomancers were consulted to determine the ideal location for the new capital. The construction of the Hue Historic Citadel started in 1803, and it took nearly 30 years to finish this massive complex.

The central structure is the Hue Citadel area which was the administrative centre of southern Viet Nam during the 17th and 18th centuries CE. Within the Hue Citadel were located not only administrative and military functions of the Empire, but also the Imperial Residence, the Hoang Thanh (Imperial City), the Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden Purple City) and related royal palaces. Tran Binh Dai, an additional defensive work in the north-east corner of the Capital City, was designed to control movement on the river. Another fortress, Tran Hai Thanh, was constructed a little later to protect the capital against assault from the sea.

The structures of the Complex of Hue Monuments are carefully placed within the natural setting of the site and aligned cosmologically with the Five Cardinal Points (centre, west, east, north, south), the Five Elements (earth, metal, wood, water, fire), and the Five Colours (yellow, white, blue, black, red).

Coffee in Vietnam

Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee exporter behind Brazil. Coffee is everywhere in Vietnam, from busy street stalls to unassuming little cafes hidden around the corner. Discover the country’s vibrant coffee culture and explore the different drink styles that are most popular. Coffee was introduced in Vietnam by the French, during the 19th century. The primary way of making coffee here — through a phin — is also a French creation. The preference for condensed milk over regular milk is yet another French legacy. Back in the 19th century, it was much harder to carry milk over long distances without it spoiling. Condensed milk was a simple solution, and its sweetness caught on among the general population.

Egg coffee is my favorite. I literally said when I saw it on the menu that I would not order it, and lucky for me, my spouse did, and then I proceeded to drink all of his, and to order it every chance that I had. This weird combination may sound slightly crazy at first, but coffee served with whipped-up egg and condensed milk is a sweet delight. Overall the taste is akin to an egg custard, or an extravagantly-creamy mousse.

The other coffee that I found delicious is coconut coffee. There are a few different styles of coconut coffee you can try. The best version is a whipped-up lump of coconut cream delicately placed into an iced black coffee, into which it scrumptiously melts, of course! Vegans should note that this is usually served with a drop of condensed milk also. Most places will have no problem serving it without milk, or will even offer a non-dairy alternative upon request.

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

We went on an overnight cruise on Ha Long Bay, part of the Bay of Tonkin where the US provoked an attack by the VietcCong to justify our Americanization of the Vietnam war. This place is magical with 7000 mostly tiny islands the most prominent visual features. April is a foggy month in the Cat Ba Archipelago, which means less of the startling turquoise water and more shadowy islet photos.

UNESCO has recognized Ha Long Bay and the Cat Ba Archipelago of over 1,000 islands and islets as one of the world’s most important areas of fengcong (clusters of conical peaks) and fenglin (isolated tower features) karst. Additionally, the exceptionally beautiful landscape is also a vibrant source of food and income for the people who live there.

Is an overnight stay required? It depends—I could look at this ever changing scenery for days on end and see different things but would you get the sense of it from a 3 hour cruise? Yes, you would. Just a spectacularly gorgeous spot.

Water Puppets, Hanoi, Vietnam

Vietnam Water Puppets began in the Red River Delta in the tenth century, with the oldest troupes in Nguyen Xa commune, Dong Hung district, Thai Binh province. This unique art form reportedly appeared during the 15th century, when artists who were also farmers gathered to perform and unwind after the harvest. Therefore, the cultural traits of the inhabitants in this area are firmly embedded in water puppetry. Many Red River Delta towns still practice the ritual because Vietnam ancients believed ghosts ruled over all elements of their lives, from the kitchen to the rice terraces. That is why the farmers in this area created entertainment and worship to appease these spirits.

Farmers who spend their days in flooded rice fields came up with the idea for water puppetry. They eventually realized that water was an excellent medium for puppetry since it not only masked the puppeteers' rod and string apparatus but also created stimulating effects such as waves and splashes.

Areas of importance to depict below, and A number of performances can be performed in sequence in one: The "Four rural occupations" group: fisherman, woodcutter, plowman, and herdsman The "Five occupations" group: scholar, peasant, worker, trader, and soldier The "Farming" group: plowing, harrowing, hoeing, rice transplanting, and tending animals.

Temple of Literature, Hanoi, Vietnam

Built by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong during the Ly dynasty, the Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu in Vietnamese) was erected in honour of the philosopher Confucius and his disciples in 1070. In 1076, it became home to Hanoi’s first university, Quốc Tử Giám. The site is one of the oldest in Hanoi and a national symbol of Vietnamese education and architecture. Today, the temple houses five court yards, records of Vietnamese scholars, and statues of turtles which are said to bring students good luck in their exams.

A symbol of Hanoi, a familiar image featured on the back of the 100,000 Vietnam dong banknote is Khue Van Cac, the Pavilion of Constellation). This unique architectural work was built in 1805 with four white-washed stone stilts. Khue is the brightest star in the sky and the whole constellation is shaped like the character of “Literature” in Chinese. It implied the wish for prosperous and developed education. Inside the courtyard, a thousand-year-old bronze bell hangs from the ceiling and is only rung on auspicious occasions.

Hỏa Lò Prison, Hanoi, Vietnam

This is a bad place, where bad people did bad things. Over the years, who was on what side changed, but the bottom line is that many people were tortured, starved, and killed here. The name Hỏa Lò, commonly translated as "fiery furnace" or even "Hell's hole”. It was a prison in Hanoi originally used by the French colonists in Indochina for political prisoners, and later by North Vietnam for U.S. prisoners of war during the Vietnam War, the sarcastically named Hanoi Hilton.

The prison was built in Hanoi by the French, in the mid-19th century, when Vietnam was still part of French Indochina. The French called the prison Maison Centrale, 'Central House', which is still the designation of prisons for dangerous or long sentence detainees in France. It was located near Hanoi's French Quarter. It was intended to hold Vietnamese prisoners, particularly political prisoners agitating for independence who were often subject to torture and execution. The guillotine is on display. Following Operation Homecoming, the prison was used to incarcerate Vietnamese dissidents and other political prisoners, including the poet Nguyễn Chí Thiện. The prison was demolished during the 1990s, although its gatehouse remains a museum.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hanoi, Vietnam

In the tradition of Lenin, Stalin and Mao, Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum is a monumental marble edifice. Contrary to Ho Chi Minh’s desire for a simple cremation and having his ashes spread in three locations, the mausoleum was constructed from materials gathered from all over Vietnam between 1973 and 1975. Set deep in the bowels of the building in a glass sarcophagus is the frail, pale body of Ho Chi Minh. The mausoleum is usually closed from 4 September to 4 November while his embalmed body goes to Russia for maintenance.

Ho served as the president of North Vietnam for 25 years; his powerful reign in the communist country symbolizes the struggle of the Vietnamese people’s fight for independence from the anti-communist regime in the south and from that regime’s southern allies, including the United States. He was not a religious man, but reportedly respected the role religion played in people's lives, and the use of Buddhist icons at his mausoleum seems less disrespectful than keeping his body preserved.

Uncle Ho, as the former Communist Party leader is often endearingly referred to by Vietnamese, is an important historical figure, and the Vietnamese people largely consider a visit to the mausoleum an honor – well worth the long journey many citizens endure. A version of this altar, respecting ancestors, is a feature in almost all Vietnamese homes.