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Thursday, August 22, 2013

Alcázar Real, Sevilla

No trip to Sevilla would be complete without a trip through the Royal Castle.  The Alcázar of Seville was constructed during the 12th century Almohad reign, but was rebuilt in 1364 for the Christian ruler Pedro I ("The Cruel"--the liked to think of himself as 'The Just', and I suppose it is all in how you look at it--everyone got the same cruel punishment, but I would be hard pressed to call it just).  All that remains of the Almohad palace is a section of wall and a cross-axially-planned garden, but the rebuilt palace's plan, gardens, and decorative programme place it squarely within the tradition of Islamic palaces of Andalucia.

The one thing that really strikes you is the oppulence of the roomds, all wending in and out of a central courtyard--do not forget to look up because the ceilings are the most spectacular aspect of some rooms. The carvings and the paintings are something to behold, but for me the very best part of the tour was the extensive tile work on the walls throughout.  I am not sure what the ascethetic of the time was, but the patterns of the tiles on different walls within the same room are remarkably different.  I love the pattern shown at the right, which is from an entry way (which is why it appears to be framed)--these pieced masterpieces (much like a ceramic quilt on the wall) are mesmerizing for me--I love visually breaking down the single pattern, then seeing how the patterns all interconnect and fit together.  Such masters of the art form.

If the Alcázar in Sevilla reminds you of the Alhambra in Granada, you are not worng about that, and it is not a coincidence--the architects and artisans from Granada built the Alcázar in Sevilla, and in some ways, it is more spectacular inside (the setting of the Alhambra up on a hill cannot be matched).


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