In ancient times the way women styled their hair and covered their head was distinctive of their social and civil status, and what is more, of the role they held and the consideration they received from a strongly hierarchical society. Within the rigid, stratified society, and subsequently in the traditional world until late into the 19th century, headdresses were worn by women to reflect their civil status.
That and other models gave way in the
14th century to a great variety of linen headdresses worn in villages
along the Gulf of Bizkaia, all most splendid by their shapes and
artistry. These women would be recognized and acknowledged by locals and
foreigners here and beyond the territory of Bizkaia by their headgear.
Its function was affected by the pointed
shapes of headwraps worn by women in Bizkaia, interpreted by the
ecclesiastical authority as another instance that the body of women is
“the devil’s door” (ie. too phallic) and hence became prohibited by bishops in the Basque
dioceses. Nonetheless, the women of that time challenged the regulations
over and over, for they looked upon their headdresses and dressmaking
as part of the costume of their country and made its preservation
subject of lawsuits and sanctions, for which they were mostly supported
by the local authorities.
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