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Sunday, August 9, 2026

Expendio de Maíz, Mexico City, Mexico

This was my favorite food experience overall. A one Michelin star place with tables on the street--and only four of them, all communal tables--we ate with some young dermatologists who trained together in the not too distant past and were in town for soccer. There is a no sign, no menu, and cash-only, sidewalk operation in Roma Norte offers a surprising experience that prioritizes food over fuss. In place of typical creature comforts, find a bustling kitchen that cooks and cooks until diners tap out. It is anyone’s guess as to what’s coming but know that heirloom corn nixtamalized and ground in house serves as the foundation for many of the dishes. Tortillas, sopes, and huaraches alike are molded and griddled to order and then dressed in a dazzling variety of seasonal ingredients and sauces. Tableside salsas pack lightning bolts of heat and enliven every course. It was phenomenal. I just wish I was hungrier.

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