Domaine Marcel Deiss, Bergheim, Alsace, France

And so we start our education of Alsace wines! We are staying on the edge of the Rue du Vin, and spent the day driving through charming villages. Our first tasting was at Domaine Marcel Deiss. Domaine Marcel Deiss ranks among the great wine estates of Alsace. The Deiss family—a lineage comprising winemakers, ironworkers, and bell founders—has been established in Bergheim since 1744. This was a great introduction to the wines of Alsace--we spent almost 2 hours tasting wine, learning about the wine growing history of Alsace, and how to approach the different wines that are characteristic of the region.

Domaine Marcel Deiss was founded in the aftermath of the Second World War, in 1947. The creation of the vineyard was the work of Marcel Deiss who has been joined by his son André, to establish an extensive wine estate based in Bergheim. They scoured the records left by the monks who had been growing grapes for wine for centuries, and discovered there used to be 130 different grape varieties—of which 110 survived to modern times and they grow 60 in their vineyards, bucking the trend of Alsace tradition that one grape from one vineyard makes a wine . His descendants—first Jean-Michel, then Mathieu Deiss—subsequently took over the family operation. Since 1997, every single parcel of the Domaine Marcel Deiss estate has been farmed biodynamically. We had fun, we learned a lot and I love their use of medieval art to label their wine.

Manzone Giovanni 1925, Monforte d'Alba, Italy

We had an exceptionally good time tasting wine at this family run winery. The great granddaughter of the founder gave us the tour. • The estate focuses on high-altitude, steep hillside vineyards, including renowned Crus such as Gramolere and Castelletto, producing elegant and age-worthy Barolo. • Manzone follows a sustainable approach with organic practices, low yields, spontaneous fermentations, and extended aging in large Slavonian oak casks.

Stefano Manzone, born in 1860, founded the current winery. His son Giovanni, born in 1886, won the Ciabot del Preve, which was the former parish priest's house and farm located in Castelletto. This area was particularly challenging to cultivate due to its distance from the main property and its difficult terrain. Giovanni and his wife Maria relocated there, driven solely by the will to survive the difficult years ahead. This moment marked the beginning of the winery's history. Giovanni was a visionary who had previously worked as a cellarman in one of the area's most innovative wineries, the Cantina Sociale di Monforte d'Alba, established in the early 19th century by Monsignor Dall'Orto. However, following the Great War, this winery closed due to the spread of phylloxera. In 1925, Giovanni moved to Castelletto's Ciabot del Preve and began producing wine, leveraging his prior experience. During this time, the post-war Langhe region experienced a significant decline in population as many abandoned rural life for urban opportunities. Giovanni Manzone was among the few who chose to remain in this rural setting. Driven by innovation, he purchased the first Lamborghini crawler tractor—an essential tool for working the steep slopes of Castelletto. This acquisition was so significant that it attracted interest from other local farmers who sought to rent it. The property continued to expand over time. In the early 1970s, the Manzone family acquired additional plots known as Gramolere, which translates to "weed and stones" in Piedmontese dialect. These lands were historically recognized for producing exceptional grapes and wines with remarkable structure and longevity.

Enoteca Regionale Del Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Italy

Inaugurated on July 5, 1986, the Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco works for the promotion of Barbaresco DOCG, representing the entire denomination and over 150 of the wineries that produce it. There are three Barbarescos open for tasting, and while we were there is was largely an Italian clientele, buying large bottles of wine, Magnums and larger. The building is spectacular! The Enoteca del Barbaresco was born from an initiative of the Piedmont Region which in 1980 determined the establishment of the circuit of Enoteche Regionali to combine the valorisation of wine culture with the recovery of historical structures, which have become the headquarters of the various wine shops. The need to create a regional institution for the promotion of Barbaresco faced the problem of the lack of adequate space: both the castle of Neive and the fiefdom of Barbaresco were not municipal property and there were no suitable structures in Treiso. The Municipality of Barbaresco then decided to purchase from the Curia the building of the former Confraternity of San Donato, now disused, thus allowing the opening of the wine shop in 1986.

G. D. Vajra Vineyard, Piedmont, Italy

Sometimes it is better to have dumb luck than to be good. We had been studying Italian for about three months prior to our recent trip, and while the studying was rough going, we happily discovered when we got to Italy that we could communicate far better than we anticipated. But it turns out not quite as well as we thought. Our sommelier in Alba recommended we taste wine here, and we sent them an email and they invited us. We showed up at the day we thought we were to arrive, and were surprised by all the fan fare. So many other people were coming at the same time on the same day! We checked in at the desk and while the woman struggled with our names, she quickly waved us toward the glasses and we were in! Well, it turns out we crashed an industry event--at some point it might have dawned on us that we were the only non-Italians in the room, but it didn't happen until we had tried quite a few wines, palette cleansed with bread and Dolce Gorgonzola from an enormous wheel and taken in the spectacular views that we did not belong there. How did we tumble to this? Because it was very clear that they were not set up to sell us wine that day. But they did, and they did it all graciously. We sent an apology email confessing our mistake and they couldn't have been lovelier about it. This is a wonderful wine made by customer friendly people.

Enoteca Regionale del Barolo, Italy

I loved this place--I particularly love the ability to try a number of different barolos before buying, and while only manned by one person, Adriano, he was knowledgable and helpful, so we got our feet on the ground about barolos. Housed in the Castle of Barolo, the “Enoteca Regionale del Barolo” was established in 1982 by a specific regional law. It is the prestigious showcase of wine production in the eleven municipalities that make up the area of origin of the “king of wines”: Barolo, Castiglione Falletto Cherasco, Diano d’Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Novello, Roddi, Serralunga d’Alba, Verduno. It currently represents 195 producers, whose wines are allowed only after an examination of a special wine tasting committee, operating strictly on anonymous samples to make an objective judgment. We were able to buy from several different wine makes, and ship from here. All in all a fun stop that I would recommend. The town of Barolo is quite charming as well (but I am glad that we stayed in Alba).

Italian Wine by Shelley Lindgren & Katie Leahy

Italy has a dizzying variety of wines and wine growing regions--it is divided into 20 regions, each with its own grape varieties, winegrowing and winemaking traditions, and food specialties, all of which evolved over 2,500+ years (and continue to evolve today). That is the story of Italy’s 20 current political regions, from Piemonte to Puglia. I got it out of the library in preparation for our trip to the Piedmonte region, and took a couple of pictures of pages within--there was just too much information to absorb, and I would do the exact same thing the next time I go. Anyone who loves Italian wine and food need some guidance in parsing this abundance, and this book is here to help. This is the first wine book in English to cover all of Italy since Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy, which, while excellent, was written two decades ago. The book begins with short and engaging chapters on Italy’s wine and political history; geography, soils, and grapes; and Italian wine at the table. There’s also a useful guide to Italian wine law and labeling, including a decoding of the alphabet soup of appellation types (DOC/DOP/PDO, IGT/IGP/PGI, Vino da Tavola, etc.) Then the heart of the book: 20 chapters covering each of Italy’s regions in turn, from Abruzzo to Veneto. Each chapter starts with a scene-setting vignette, along with a sketch of the kinds of wines the region is known for now. Next come a short vinous history, an introduction to the geography and wines grown in each subregion, and a description of the most significant grape varieties. Each chapter closes with a page listing regional foods and some of the authors’ recommended wine producers. It is not a novel, it is a resource, and might be best gotten as an e-book so that you could have it in your back pocket as you travel the confusing wine regions of Italy.

Central Otago Wine Country, New Zealand

Our trip to New Zealand was a series of unfortunate events, and the day we spent wine tasting on the South Island in New Zealnd is the story of making lemonade out of lemaons. We were supposed to go to Milford Sound, which is one of the things I remembered best from my first trip to New Zealand almost 40 years ago. We flew in, and it was memorably spectacular from the air, so that is how I wanted my spouse to see it too. We were also on a limited time budet, and it would allow us to not spend the whole day in the car getting there, and have time to explore the waterfalls and fjords that make it such a special place. When the weather forecast was that it was too foggy to fly, we pivoted to a wine tour--which would have been far cheaper than the flying was, except that at the very first winery they had free shipping to the United States, so we pivoted to making the day cost neutral and having something from the trip to enjoy at home. I would highly recommend this option and while I thought I didn't care much for New Zealand whites, it turns out I am not crazy about the New Zealand whites that are prevalent exports. We tasted some really delicious pinot noirs, roses, and sauvignon blancs and great fun while doing so. If we go back, we would purposely travel to wine country!