Boustany by Sammi Tamimi

This is a love letter to Palestinian food and the Palestinian people-- the author, who I first discovered when he co-authored a book with Yotam Ottolenghi called Jerusalem, lives in London, but his food is firmly rooted in the Middle East. This is a bit of a love letter as well as a book full of food--there are stories to go with every recipe, and also at the beginning of each section. This is a deeply personal book, laced with longing and a loving nostalgia. You can almost picture the author's grandparents’ boustan, or garden, and feel the joy he experienced spending time there as a child. He shares cherished family recipes, offers up dishes from the various ethnic communities in Palestine, and expresses enormous pride in his people’s culinary heritage. It is all vegetables all the time. There are a lot of dairy products used, but they can often be eliminated or replaced with plant based alternatives if that is how you roll.

Zatar Roast Chicken

This is the best sheet pan chicken I have had--I find chicken a little under flavored much of the time, and that was not the case with this. It was also most and really delicious. Added bonus is that it is forgiving on when it is served. If you need the meal to be left alone after guests start arriving, this is an excellent choice. It calls for cutting up a whole chicken but you could certainly do with the parts you like best. It comes from Falatin, a cookbook I have yet to really explore. ▢3 lemons ▢One (2 3/4-pound) whole chicken cut into legs, thighs, and breasts with the wing-tips left on (or about 2 lb 2 oz | 1kg of bone-in chicken legs or breasts with the wing-tips left on), skin on if you prefer ▢2 medium onions sliced in half, then each half cut into 3 wedges (2 3/4 cups) ▢2 heads garlic skin on, sliced in half, crosswise ▢2 teaspoons sumac ▢3/4 teaspoon ground allspice ▢4 tablespoons za’atar ▢6 tablespoons olive oil ▢3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons store-bought or homemade chicken stock or water (200 ml) ▢Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Cut 2 of the lemons into slices 1/4 inch thick (6 mm) and place in a large bowl or resealable plastic bag. Finely grate the zest of the remaining lemon (you want about 1 1/2 teaspoon of zest) and set it aside for later. Squeeze 1 1/2 tablespoons juice from that same last lemon into the bowl or bag. Add the chicken, onions, garlic, sumac, allspice, 2 tablespoons of za’atar, 2 tablespoons of oil, the stock, 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, and a good grind of black pepper to the lemon juice. Mix well to combine and then cover with a large plate or seal the bag, and let marinate in the fridge, turning the chicken pieces occasionally, for at least 2 hours (or up to overnight, if you have the time). About 30 minutes before baking, take the chicken out of the fridge. Preheat the oven to 425°F (218°C). Transfer the chicken to a large rimmed baking sheet, skin side up, and pour on the marinade, including the onion, garlic, and sliced lemon. Drizzle the chicken with 1 tablespoon of oil and roast, giving everything a bit of a stir halfway through, until the chicken is golden and cooked through and the onions have taken on Transfer the chicken to a platter along with the onions and lemon slices and any juices that have collected at the bottom of the pan. Some people will love to eat the lemon slices and others won’t. Either way, serve them up with the chicken—they look great!

Greek Salad

This is such a simple recipe and yet it is very enjoyable, even before the summer tomato season takes off, and I recommend making it weekly over the summer months. Dressing 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Salad 1/2 small red onion, finely sliced, or to taste 4 medium-size ripe tomatoes (total weight about 500 grams) 500 grams cucumber 1 handful Kalamata olives 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed 1/3 green bell pepper, cut crosswise into 3 circles 150 grams feta cheese 1 teaspoon dried oregano Start by making the dressing, whisking all the ingredients together in a bowl. (If you want to marinate the onion first, add it to the dressing now, letting it soften there for 20 minutes.) Cut the tomatoes into large, thick, wedges, about ¾ inch (2 centimeters) wide. Peel the cucumber and cut it into thick, diagonal slices about ¾ inch (2 centimeters) wide also, then cut these slices in half, so they are roughly the same size as the tomatoes. Place the tomatoes, cucumber, and onion in a large bowl. Add the dressing and toss together well. Scatter the olives and capers over the salad, layer on the slices of green bell pepper, and place a large piece of feta on top. Drizzle the entire salad with a bit more extra-virgin olive oil and finish with the dried oregano. Serve with crusty bread.

Pomegranate and Sumac Chicken

For the marinade: ▢3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses ▢1 tablespoon store-bought or homemade tomato paste ▢1/2 teaspoon ground allspice ▢2 teaspoons pul biber (Aleppo pepper*) ▢1 teaspoon ground sumac ▢2 fat garlic cloves crushed ▢Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper For the chicken: ▢8 large bone-in chicken thighs or a whole chicken (about 3 lbs | 1.4 kg) cut into 8 pieces ▢3 tablespoons olive oil Make the marinade In a large bowl, combine all the marinade ingredients with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Marinate the chicken Add the chicken to the marinade and, using your hands, massage the chicken until it is evenly coated, then cover and stash in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours. When you're ready to cook, take the chicken out of the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature (this will take about 20 minutes). Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). ☞TESTER TIP: Line your sheet pan with foil for easier clean up. Place the chicken skin side up on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with the olive oil. Roast until the juices from the chicken run clear when it is pierced at the thickest part, and the internal temperature is 165°F (74°C), 30 to 35 minutes.

Cypriot Potato Salad

I made this as part of some sides for a good roast chicken, but it would be equally great on a mezze table, providing a starchy foil that is not crusty bread (which you should also have, and which we also served). This comes together quite quickly, and you can also make a Greek salad while you wait for the potatoes to boil. 2 pounds new potatoes 1 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning Finely grated zest from 1 medium unwaxed lemon ¼ red onion, finely sliced ⅓ cup kalamata olives, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed Handful EACH: fresh mint leaves, fresh cilantro, both finely chopped 1 teaspoon dried oregano 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper Peel potatoes or leave the skin on. Cut potatoes into 2-inch chunks. (I used halved unpeeled baby potatoes.) Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add 1 teaspoon salt and the potatoes to the pot and boil for about 12 minutes, or until they are tender. Drain and place in a serving bowl. Add lemon zest, onion, olives, capers, mint, cilantro, oregano, oil and lemon juice, along with ¼ teaspoon salt and a good grind or 2 of black pepper.

Shrimp Saganaki

My cookbook club is using Yasmin Kahn's Ripe Figs cookbook this month, and I rediscovered a tub of very reasonoable quality fets deep in my spare refridgerator, so I am trying out a few recipes this month. I used home canned tomatoes and Pernod and probably could have cooked the sauce a bit longer, but a very good week night recipe. Traditionally served with pasta but I used rice. 1 pound shrimp some olive oil to saute 1/2 of a medium onion, finely shopped 15-16 ounces pureed tomatoes 3-4 garlic cloves, grated 3 Tbs ouzo 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon sugar pinch of crushed red pepper flakes salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 handful of chopped fresh parsley 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled lemons for garnish Season the shrimp on both sides lightly with salt and black pepper. Heat an oven-safe skillet over medium heat and cook the onions about 5-7 minutes or until slightly golden, translucent and soft. Add garlic and warm through for a few seconds. Add tomatoes, sugar, crushed red pepper flakes, black pepper and a little salt. Remember, that the feta is salty, so do not put too much salt in the sauce. Cover the pan with the lid and cook the sauce until it reduces and thickens. About 6-7 minutes. Add the shrimp and ouzo. Cook 2-3 minutes, then sprinkle the feta on top and turn off the heat. Transfer the pan under the broiler and cook about 5 minutes or until the cheese melts, the sauce is bubbly and slightly charred. Garnish with chopped parsley and lemon wedges. Serve with crusty, toasted bread or with rice or pasta.

White Bean Salad

Serve this as part of a mezze lunch and enjoy! 2 cups (14 ounces) dried Great Northern beans 2 bay leaves 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 large red onion, thinly sliced 1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley 6 tablespoons olive oil 5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 8 large lettuce leaves Place beans in large bowl. Add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Let beans soak overnight. Drain beans. Place in heavy large saucepan. Add bay leaves and enough cold water to cover by 2 inches; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 30 minutes. Add salt and continue to simmer until beans are tender but still hold shape, about 15 minutes longer. Drain beans and place in large bowl; discard bay leaves. Add onion and parsley. Whisk oil, lemon juice, cumin, and cayenne in medium bowl. Season dressing with salt and pepper. Pour over bean salad; toss gently to combine. DO AHEAD Can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Arrange lettuce leaves on individual plates or on large platter. Spoon bean salad into lettuce and serve.

Rice Pilaf with Raisins and Pistachios

This can be made with any dried fruit and any nut, of course. It is ideal for a meal where there is a dish that could use the rice to serve it with, but also if there is someone present who might not want the main dish, either because they are vegetarian of because they are children, or some other factor, and as the host you want to have something substantive for them to eat. 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ¾ cup uncooked white rice 1 ¼ cups stock (chicken or mushroom are good options) ¼ cup chopped pistachio nuts ¼ cup golden raisins ¼ cup finely chopped green onions salt 1. Heat olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat and cook onion, turmeric, and cardamom, stirring constantly, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add rice and mix well. 2. Pour chicken broth into the saucepan, stir, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed, about 17 minutes. 3. Toast pistachios in a dry skillet until fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes; remove from skillet and coarsely chop. 4. Place golden raisins in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Soak for 1 minute and drain well. 5. Remove rice from heat and allow to stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork. Mix in pistachios, raisins, and green onions; season with salt.

Roasted Squash and Red Onion with Tahini and Za'atar

We recently had dinner guests. Yes, we have friends who are vaccinated and we are acting accordingly. While we wear masks in public and at work, we socially distance (they were afterall at one end of a 12 foot table and we were at the other, with the food located squarely in the middle, to be puched back and forth), and we exercise caution, but we feel like we can make this move. And ultimately, we do need to know what exactly the vaccine will buy us in the way of normalcy. So I made this very traditionally Ottolenghi dish as part of the meal. Za'atar and tahini make me think that i might be able to travel again some day. I do not know why that is--we have been making oodles of Asian food and those are places I would love to explore or return to but somehow it is the edges of European food that make me pine for an international trip. This is easy and delicious. 1 large butternut squash (about 2 lbs.), cut into pieces 2 red onions, cut into wedges 3 1/2 tablespoons/50 ml olive oil 3 1/2 tablespoons light tahini paste 1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons water 1 small clove garlic, crushed 3 1/2 tablespoons/30 g pine nuts 1 tablespoon za’atar 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Directions 1. Preheat the oven to 475°F / 240°C. Put the squash and onion in a large mixing bowl, add 3 tablespoons of the oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and some black pepper and toss well. Spread on a baking sheet with the skin facing down and roast in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until the vegetables have taken on some color and are cooked through. Keep an eye on the onions as they might cook faster than the squash and need to be removed earlier. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. 2. To make the sauce, place the tahini in a small bowl along with the lemon juice, water, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Whisk until the sauce is the consistency of honey, adding more water or tahini if necessary 3. Pour the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons oil into a small frying pan and place over medium-low heat. Add the pine nuts along with 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often, until the nuts are golden brown. Remove from the heat and transfer the nuts and oil to a small bowl to stop the cooking. 4. To serve, spread the vegetables out on a large serving platter and drizzle over the tahini. Sprinkle the pine nuts and their oil on top, followed by the za’atar and parsley.

Egyptian Kushari

Of all the food we had on a recent trip to Egypt, this was the one that stuck with us.  We ate it in a restaurant that only serves kushari, that is it.  The options when ordering are small, medium, and large, and they are all priced around a dollar a bowl.  And the taste is phenomenal.

For the onions:

• 1 lb onions (454g)
• Vegetable oil for frying, I use canola or sunflower

For the lentils and rice:

• 4 tablespoons onion oil
• 1 ½ cups medium grain rice, I use Calrose (11oz, 312g)
• ¾ cup brown lentils (5.8oz, 164g)
• 2 tablespoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
• 3 cups vegetable or chicken broth (or 3 cups water and 1 bouillon cube) (750ml)

For the pasta:

• 1 lb box ditalini or macaroni (454g)
• 4 tablespoons onion oil
• Salt to taste

For the spicy tomato sauce:

• 2 tablespoons onion oil
• 1 onion, cut small
• Green pepper – depending on how spicy you want it – 1 big mild pepper, or several jalapenos, cut small
• 5 cloves garlic, minced fine
• 17.64 oz box of Pomi strained tomatoes (or other good quality, strong tomato sauce) (500g)
• 4 tablespoons white vinegar
• 1 bouillon cube
• Salt to taste

Optional:

• 15 ounce can chick peas, warmed and drained (425g)
• Garlic Vinegar Sauce, see notes

Instructions

For the fried onions and onion oil:

1. Clean the onions, cut them in half, then slice in thin half-circles.
2. In a medium pan, heat oil to 350 degrees F. You want just enough oil to cover the onions, about 3 cups.
3. Cook onions in oil, stirring occasionally. Keep an eye on the edges around the pan, that will darken too quickly first.
4. When they are golden brown, lift them out with a slotted spoon and spread on a layer of napkins. Keep them spread out so they can stay crispy.
5. Keep the onion oil - you'll use it in three other places in the Kushari.

For the lentils and rice:

1. Simmer lentils in water until they are almost soft, about 20-25 minutes, then drain. You don't want to fully cook them at this point because they will be cooked further with the rice.
2. In the same pan, heat 4 tablespoons onion oil. Sauté rice and cumin in oil about 30 seconds then add lentils, broth, salt, and 1 handful of the fried onions, smashed.
3. Bring to a boil. After boiling, cover pan with lid, turn heat to low, and cook until rice is done, about 15 minutes. Turn off heat, let rest for 10 minutes, then fluff with fork. Keep covered until ready to use. Wrapped in a blanket, the rice will stay warm for several hours.

For the pasta:

1. Cook the small pasta in salted, boiling water until al dente. Drain.
2. Toss with ¼ cup onion oil and salt to taste.
3. Cover and keep warm until ready to use. Wrapped in a blanket, the pasta will stay warm for several hours.

For the spicy tomato sauce:

1. Sauté onion and green pepper in 2 tablespoons of the onion oil until they are soft.
2. Add garlic, tomato, vinegar, bouillon cube, and salt to taste. Let simmer 10 minutes. Turn off heat. Keep warm until ready to use.

To assemble and serve Kushari:

1. Either layer the separate components in a big serving dish or in individual bowls. First a layer of the rice and lentils goes in. Then the pasta, sauce, and finally the fried onions.
2. If you are using the optional chickpeas, add them on top of the sauce and before the onions.
3. For the optional extra garlic vinegar sauce, see notes.

For the vinegar sauce, in a jar combine:

3 cloves garlic, minced
1-2 tablespoons minced green pepper
2 teaspoons ground cumin
3 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
4 tablespoons water
½ teaspoon salt