Tucci In Italy

I watched this whole season while traveling over the course of a couple of week and while I had been in the majority of regions so there was not much in the way of finding hidden gems, I very much enjoyed each episode. Stanley Tucci seems to believe that the best way to understand what makes a country unique is through its food, and while I am not sure that is true of my own coutnry, it is something that I want to believe too. Tucci grew up in an Italian American home, and he speaks Italian, so the show is inherently in two languages. In Italy, even the shape of the pasta and the sauce served with it can speak directly to identity and sharply differentiate each region. He is returning to visit five new regions, including one he’s never featured before, Le Marche, with many culinary delights that have escaped the attention of international tourists. In Campania, and its famed capital of Naples, he celebrates a once-forgotten vine grape, and in Veneto, he deliciously wades into the controversy over the origins of tiramisu. Stanley also visits two very different Islands: Sardinia, where he explores the relationship between food and longevity, and Sicily, where a multicultural history has left a delicious mark on its cuisine. At the end of it, I was sorry that there wasn't more and that it had ended. It left me wanting more and also ready to plan my next trip to Italy.

A Blissful Feast by Teresa Lust

The trouble with going to the less traveled spots is that sometimes it is hard to find books that cover said regions. I have an acquaintance who travels extensively and often who swears by travel blogs as a source from which to plan your trips. She travels off the beaten path, and I am seeing the wisdom of her way. So I picked this up because it starts in Piedmont, a region that I am traveling to very soon. The author's maternal grandparents came from the Italian Piedmont, and it's there that she begins her what is part memoir, part recollection of culinary lessons and cultural insights in three parts of the country. The book contains more than 35 recipes for the likes of braised rabbit with white wine and rosemary, breakfast biscotti, and tagliatelle made with fresh eggs, the real instruction comes through the stories Lust tells about the cooks who fed her and whom she worked alongside to learn how to cook regionally in Italy. Ancient and contemporary Italy overlap in her stories of cooks and marketplaces, restaurants and holiday feasts, regional rivalries and evocations of Dante. She went to Piedmont to learn Italian at a language school, and she recounts her struggles when the limitation of her language skills led to challenges in her understanding the conversations she had with the cooks, bakers, and butchers but as her skill improved her stories have more depth and interest. It really stuck with her, because she is now a professor in Italian language study at Dartmouth, and some of the stories towards the end of her book are about trying to take the cuisine of Italy home to New England. I especially appreciated her story of harvesting hops shoots and how perplexing it was for the farms caretaker to understand what she was about. There is a hazard that you're likely to want to make your own trip to Italy, and luckily I had that in hand before I started the book.

Braised Red Cabbage with Vinegar

This is an excellent recipe to have in your back pocket--introduced to me by one of my kids, so even better--it uses a ubiquitously available vegetable, very winter friendly as well, affordable, and this comes together in no time. It can be served warm, room temperature, or cold, all equally good. Any vinegar will do, and you can add a little stock if the braising turns to burning. 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup chopped onion 4 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed 1 1/2-pound red cabbage, cut into ribbons 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 3-4 tablespoons red wine vinegar Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; sauté until beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Add cabbage and cumin seeds; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss until cabbage is wilted, about 4 minutes. . Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmerBOUT 10 minutes. Add vinegar. Cover and cook until cabbage is tender, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Poached Salmon in Green Sauce

My spouse made this as part of our Xmas dinner, and it was astoundingly good. For the pickled peppers we used a comination of sweet and hot, which I would recommend. 1 cup white wine 2 carots, sliced 1 celery stalk, sliced 1 small onion, diced 5 peppercorns 2 cloves garlic 1 piece of cinnamon stick 1.5 lbs of fish salt to taste Green Sauce 1/4 cup olive oil 4 anchovy fillets 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 Tbsp. chopped parseley 1/4 cup minced onion 1/4 cup finely chopped pickled pepper 2 Tbsp. capers 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 tsp. lemon zest Combine all the poaching ingredients (without the fish) into a skillet and add water to a depth of 1" and simmer for 25 minutes. Cut the fish into portion sizes and put into pan in a single layer in the skillet--if the fish isn't submerged, add water until it is. Cook for 8-10 minutes. Remove fish with a slotted spoon, debone and remove skin, and put on serving platter. Add all the green sauce ingredients to a small saucepan, but hold back the zest and 1 Tbsp. of parseley. Heat until anchovies dissolve. Put zest on fish, then the sauce, and top with the remaining parseley. The original recipe says to discard the poaching vegetables, but my spouse strained them, and served with the salmon, and they were quite tasty with it.

Penne A La Vodka

I really like this dish, but until now, I have not made a version of it that I would repeat. This is a version of Odette William's from Simple Pasta. It is a weeknight recipe that you prepare the sauce while you are cooking the penne. 1 lb. dried penne 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 shallot, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, grated 1 small red Thai chile, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced, or ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1/4 c. tomato paste ¼ cup vodka ¾ cup heavy cream ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for topping ⅓ cup coarsely chopped basil leaves, plus small leaves for topping 1 teaspoon kosher salt Directions: 1. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. 2. In a large heavy-bottomed frying pan over medium heat warm the olive oil. Add the shallot, garlic, and chile and sauté just until translucent, about 3 minutes. 3. Add the tomato paste to the pan and cook for another couple of minutes, then pour in the vodka and cook it off for a couple minutes more. 4. Add the cream to the pan and bring to a gentle simmer for a couple of minutes. Lower the heat and keep the sauce warm. 5. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente according to package instructions if using store-bought. Using a large spider or slotted spoon, transfer the pasta into the warm sauce, along with ¼ cup of the pasta water, and toss to coat. Stir in the Parmigiano and basil, then season with the salt. 6. Serve the pasta topped with additional Parmigiano and small basil leaves.

Shrimp in Purgatory

This dish is inspired by the bright flavors of eggs in purgatory, the classic Southern Italian dish in which eggs simmer in a spicy tomato sauce. The exact origins of the name are uncertain, but many say the sauce is meant to represent purgatory, and the eggs, souls. Here, shrimp stand in for the eggs, and the tomato sauce is rich and tangy, with roasted red peppers and capers. Can be served with polenta, rice, or small pasta. 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 yellow or red onion, minced Kosher salt and black pepper 8 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ to 1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving ½ teaspoon fennel seeds 2 tablespoons minced jarred Calabrian chiles or minced jarred cherry peppers, stems removed, or cherry pepper relish 8 ounces roasted red peppers, drained and chopped (about 1 cup) 1 (14-ounce) can whole or crushed tomatoes 1 to 1 ½ pounds peeled, deveined shrimp 2 scallions, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon capers, drained ½ cup grated Parmesan, plus more for serving Warm the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high. Add the onion, season generously with salt, and cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, soft and starting to turn golden, 7 or 8 minutes. If necessary, decrease the heat to medium to prevent scorching. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant and softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the oregano, red-pepper flakes and fennel seeds, then the Calabrian chiles, roasted red peppers and tomatoes. (Crush the tomatoes by hand, if using whole.) Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, adjust the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook for about 5 minutes to slightly reduce the sauce and blend the flavors. Add the shrimp, scallions and capers, and cook until the shrimp are curled, pink and opaque, 3 to 7 minutes, depending on size and quantity. Turn off the heat and taste the sauce. Add more red-pepper flakes, salt and pepper, if you like. Sprinkle the cheese over the top and serve, passing more Parmesan and red-pepper flakes at the table.

Shrimp Piccata Spaghetti+

My husband has been sending me recipes as he comes upon them in the course of his day, maybe in the hopes that I will make them. I have worked from home for almost a year and a half, which has been an amazing way to transition from a high powered job to a less intense job as I make my way towards retirement, but the sad truth is that while I am able to accomplish all of my work tasks within the confines of the traditional work day, I do not find myself with a lot of time on my hands. The good news about this recipe is that it is easy peasy, requiring less than half an hour from slowly amazzing the ingredients to having the meal on the table. Kosher salt and black pepper 1 pound spaghetti 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 medium shallot, finely chopped (1/2 cup) 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 pound cleaned medium shrimp, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces 1 cup thawed frozen peas 2 tablespoons capers, plus 2 tablespoons caper brine 3 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, plus more for garnish Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high. Cook spaghetti according to package instructions until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain pasta. While the pasta is cooking, heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium and melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in it. Add shallot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic until fragrant, 30 seconds. Reduce heat to medium-low, add shrimp and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until shrimp just turn opaque, 4 to 5 minutes. If the shrimp is done before the pasta finishes, remove the skillet from heat. Return pasta and 1 cup of the reserved pasta water to the large pasta pot and heat over medium. Add the shrimp mixture, peas, capers, caper brine and the remaining 3 tablespoons butter, and season with salt and pepper. Stir vigorously until sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice and parsley.

Short Rib Ragu

We bought a 1/2 a cow as one of our pandemic purchases--early on there was some concern about supply chains and the meat packing industry was hit hard early on as well, so we partnered with someone we knew and went straight to the farmer. It is Iowa, after all. The hardest part was acquiring the freezer necessary, but we managed that as well, and now, almost two years later, we are getting another one, and we need to quickly finish up the first cow! This was a very rich way to have the short ribs that were left. 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 1/2 to 4 pounds short ribs, each about 2-inches long, cut flanken style, across the ribs Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 dried bay leaf 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 5 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley 4 small carrots, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 1 medium onion, diced 2 medium shallots, diced 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1/2 cup ruby port 2 cups red wine, such as cabernet 1/2 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled 3 1/2 cups homemade beef stock 1 pound pappardelle or other long, flat pasta Chopped parsley Grated Pecorino Romano, for garnish Directions Heat oven to 325 degrees F. Place a 5-quart casserole or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add oil, and heat until it is almost smoking. Season short ribs generously with salt and pepper. Working in batches if necessary, add short ribs to the hot oil. Cook ribs until browned on both sides. Remove ribs from casserole, and transfer to a large bowl. Set aside. Meanwhile, prepare bouquet garni: Place bay leaf, rosemary, thyme, and parsley in the center of a square of cheesecloth. Bring edges together, and tie with kitchen string. Set bouquet garni aside. Add carrots, celery, onion, and shallots to oil in the casserole, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened and golden, about 10 minutes. Add flour and tomato paste to the casserole, and stir to combine. Add ruby port; stir with wooden spoon until all browned bits have been scraped from the pan and the bottom of the casserole is clean. Add red wine, and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Add garlic, beef stock, and the reserved bouquet garni. Return browned ribs to the casserole. Bring the liquid to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover the casserole, and place it in the oven. Cook until ribs are very tender, about 3 hours. Remove the cooked ribs from the casserole. Set the casserole on the stove top over medium heat, and simmer to thicken sauce just slightly. As soon as the short ribs are cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the bones, and shred into small pieces. Degrease the sauce and discard the bouquet garni. Return shredded meat to casserole, and simmer to reduce sauce by about half. Fill a large pot with water and add a few tablespoons of salt. Set over high heat, and bring to a boil. Salt well, and stir in pasta. Cook until pasta is al dente. Drain pasta, and serve with short-rib ragu, sprinkle with the parsley. Serve with freshly grated Percorino Romano.

Spinach and Pancetta Meatballs

You can make this with turkey, but when you have half a cow, you have lots of ground beef and many different meatball recipes. The thing I like about this one is that it has some greens in it and it adds pancetta, so you get some pork flavor without resorting to ground pork (which is desirable if you are using up beef, but if you also have a pig, then you can afford to use a different recipe). 1 pound ground meat 1 ounce thinly sliced pancetta, finely chopped (1/4 cup) 1/2 onion, finely chopped (about 3/4 cup) 8 oz of chopped spinach, blanched and drained of all water 1 garlic clove, minced 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 1 large whole egg 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsely Gently mix tmeat, pancetta, onion, garlic, and breadcrumbs in a large bowl; season with 1 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Stir in the egg and yolk, herbsd and spinach. Form mixture into 1-inch meatballs. Heat 1 to 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Cook the meatballs in a single layer (work in two batches, if necessary), turning as needed, until browned on all sides and cooked through, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate, serve with sauce of your choice--I prefer marinara. These are very good in meatball sandwiches.

Grilled Zucchini Salad with Arugula

This is a simple and delicious way to have zucchini as a room temperature salad, if you have the grill on for another reason. 6 courgettes stale (good) bread 2 garlic cloves – finely chopped chilli flakes – 1 tsp rocket leaves – 150g olive oil lemon juice sea salt flakes and pepper You’ll need to make the breadcrumbs first: Preheat the oven to 180c/gas mark 4. Tear the bread into small chunks and scatter onto a baking sheet. Pour over a generous slug of olive oil and shake the tray a few times to ensure the bread is thoroughly coated. Place in the oven for 15-20 minutes until golden brown and crispy. Set aside to cool. When cool, place in a food processor along with the garlic, chilli flakes and pinch of salt and grind of pepper. Blitz for a few seconds until you have breadcrumbs. Turn out into a bowl, drizzle over a little more olive oil, taste and season again if necessary. Now the courgettes: Cut the courgettes lengthways into 4mm thick slices. Place in a bowl, pour over some olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Mix with your hands to ensure an even coating. Cook in batches on a griddle pan until soft and lightly charred. Set aside on some kitchen roll to cool. Dress the rocket with lemon juice and olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Lay over the courgettes and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Serve at room temperature.

Lentils with Burrata

I made this as part of a birthdya celebration dinner and really enjoyed it. 300g (1 and 1/2 cups) Puy lentils, rinsed 1 large carrot, peeled and chopped into small dice 2 celery sticks, chopped into small dice 1/2 medium sized onion, peeled and cut into small dice 2 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into small dice 3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only 2 large burrata balls (or 4 smaller ones) salt and pepper to taste Basil oil: handful of fresh basil leaves extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper to taste Dressing: 1 tsp Dijon mustard 30ml (2 tblsp) extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp red wine vinegar salt and pepper 1/4 tsp caster sugar 50g (3 tblsp approx) Gorgonzola cheese, broken up into small pieces Make the basil oil by placing the washed leaves (reserve a few for the garnish) into a food processor with some oil and salt and pepper to taste. Process for a few seconds until you have a thin oil and set aside. Put the Puy lentils in cold water in a medium saucepan so that they are covered by about 7cm (3 inches) water. Bring to the boil and cook for about 30-35 minutes or until they are just soft but still hold their shape. Drain and set aside. In a large frypan, heat up a couple of tablespoons of olive oil on medium heat and add the carrot, celery, onion and thyme. Cook on low-medium heat for around ten minutes, so that the vegetables are softened but not coloured, add the garlic and cook for a few more minutes. Add the drained lentils and heat through, adding a bit of water if necessary to stop them sticking. Add salt and pepper to taste. Keep on low heat whilst making the dressing. To make the dressing, place the olive oil, red wine vinegar, mustard, pinch of salt, some pepper and the sugar into a small bowl and whisk. Stir through the Gorgonzola. Add the dressing to the cooked vegetables and place on a serving plate. Tear open the burrata onto the vegetables (using individual or shared plates). Drizzle on some basil oil and garnish with reserved basil leaves.

Tuna and Potato Salami

This is a Marcella Hazan recipe that we made over 390 years ago for the first time, but haven't made in at least a decade until just recently. It is simple, not much to look at, but delicious. Use tuna in oil if you can get it. 1 medium potato 14 oz. tuna in oil 1/4 c. grated parmesan cheese 1 egg plus 1 egg white salt and pepper to taste Poaching Broth 1/2 onion sliced 1 stalk celery 1 carrot handful of parseley 1 c white wine salt Aoili 1/2 c. mayonnaise 1/2 lemon zested and squeezed 2 Tbs. crushed and chopped capers splash of fish sauce or 1/2 anchovy shredded sliced black olives salt and pepper to taste Boil the potato until soft through and rice through a potato ricer. Flake the tuna, and add the egg, cheese, salt, and pepper. Divide into 2 equal amounts and form into logs. Moisten 2 pieces of cheesecloth to wrap up the tuna logs (about 1/4 of a store bought package of cheesecloth for each log). Roll up and tie the ends with twine. Put in the poaching broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes, then drain and cool the logs in the fridge. Best after 24 hours. Unroll and discard cheesecloth. Slice 1/4-1/2 inch and top with the mayo sauce.

Blood Orange and Campari Cake

This is a very dense cake from the Venetian cookbook Polpo. Be sure the be prepared to have many guests, or share it, or freeze it, or halve it, because you can only eat a small piece of this cake with grown up flavors. 8 blood oranges 350g Greek yoghurt 600g caster sugar 4 medium free-range eggs, lightly beaten 250g butter, melted and cooled 350g fine semolina 100g ground almonds 100ml Campari Preheat the oven to 170°C/Gas 3. Finely grate the zest of 4 of the blood oranges and set the fruit to one side. Get a large mixing bowl and put in the yoghurt, 300g of the caster sugar and the lightly beaten eggs. Stir in the cooled butter and finally fold through all the dry ingredients including the orange zest. Scrape the mixture into a 23cm greased cake tin and put into the oven. Check to see if the cake is ready after 15 minutes. Push a skewer into the centre; it should come out dry. Leave to cool in the tin. While the cake is cooking, make the syrup. Put the juice of 8 blood oranges, the remaining sugar and the Campari into a heavy-based saucepan. Slowly bring to the boil. Allow the syrup to simmer and skim off any white scum. When reduced to a medium-thick syrup, remove from the heat. Prick the top of the cake all over with a toothpick and spoon the syrup over the warm sponge in a couple of batches until everything has been absorbed. Your cake is now ready. To serve, simply cut a slice and offer with excellent vanilla ice cream.

Zuchinni and Arugula Salad

This is another recipe from Russell Norman's cookbook of Venetian food. If you cannot travel, cook meals that remind you of place. My spouse finds this decreases his interest in travel, and I find that mine soars and my hopes at the moment are currently dashed. I made this with cucumbers instead of zucchini because it is not summer here (minus zero kind of weather), but I think that zucchini would be great. I sliced the cucumber thin, but I would mandoline the zucchini. The Dressing: 1/3 c. good olive oil one lemon zested and squeezed (about 1/4 c. of juice) minced shallot dab of Dijon mustard salt and pepper Use enough to dress the zucchini you make (there are three cucumbers here, tossed with baby rocket), add the arugula, to taste, and if it is actually summer, add some fresh herbs. You will not be disappointed.

Polpette in a Basic Tomato Sauce

We had a Valentine's Day weekend Italian meal with these delisious meatballs as a part of it. My spouse even cooked some to make sure the seasoning was good. These are tender, and tick all my meatball loving boxes. Ingredients • 1/2 c. breadcrumbs • 500g minced beef • 500g minced pork • 1 large egg, beaten • 2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped • 150g Parmesan, grated • Extra virgin olive oil • 1 medium onion, finely chopped • 200ml passata • 1 x 400g tin Italian chopped plum tomatoes • Small handful flat parsley, chopped • Small handful basil leaves, torn • Flaky sea salt • Black pepper 1. Put the stale breadcrumbs into a small bowl and cover with milk. Leave for 20mins, churning once or twice with a fork, until the milk has absorbed and the bread is mushy. 2. Place the minced beef and pork into a large mixing bowl and add the egg, half the chopped garlic and two-thirds of the Parmesan. Turn several times with your hands and add a good pinch of salt and a twist of black pepper. Now introduce the mushy bread, squeezing the excess milk off first, and spend several minutes mixing together with your hands to incorporate everything smoothly. 3. Preheat the oven to 180˚C. Roll the meat mixture into 20 even spheres, roughly the size of ping pong balls. Place onto a baking sheet and drizzle a little oil, evenly coating the meatballs by moving them around. Add a good twist of salt and pepper and place in the hot oven for 12–15mins, turning once halfway through, until golden brown. 4. Meanwhile, gently heat a few glugs of olive oil in a large saucepan and sauté the chopped onion and the remaining chopped garlic. When the onion is soft and glossy, add the passata and chopped tomatoes with a very good pinch of salt. Simmer on a low heat for 15mins stirring occasionally, add the parsley and basil towards the end with a twist of pepper, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. 5. Serve the meatballs in the tomato sauce with the remaining Parmesan on top.

Detroit Style Pizza

We finally made this, and I have to say, that while the sheer weight of the ingredients may cause you to pause, it is a great deep dish style pizza, better (in my mind) than the more famous Chicago version. Find yourself some brick cheese (hint--Wisconsin is the place of origin), and whip this up one fine weekend day. I suggest lunch, which is what we did, because it is far too heavy for dinner fare. For the Dough: 300g bread flour (10.5 ounces; about 2 generous cups) 5g instant yeast (0.15 ounce; about 1 teaspoon), such as SAF Instant Yeast 9g salt (0.3 ounce; about 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt or 1 tablespoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt) 220g water (7.75 ounces; about 1 cup minus 1 1/2 teaspoons) Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed For the Sauce: 2 tablespoons (30ml) extra-virgin olive oil 3 medium cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons (about 5g) dried oregano Dash red pepper flakes 1 (28-ounce; 800g) can high-quality crushed tomatoes 1 teaspoon (about 6g) granulated garlic powder 1 teaspoon (about 6g) granulated onion powder 1 tablespoon (about 15g) sugar Kosher salt, to taste To Finish: 12 ounces (340g) Brick cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (see note) 12 ounces (340g) high-quality natural-casing pepperoni, such as Boar's Head or Vermont Smoke & Cure, cut into 1/8-inch slices (optional) Directions 1. To Make the Dough in a Stand Mixer: Combine flour, yeast, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Stir to combine, then add water. Mix on low speed until dough comes together into a rough ball, then shut off mixer and let rest for 10 minutes. Continue mixing at medium-low speed until dough forms a smooth, silky ball, about 10 minutes longer. (It should stick to the bottom of the bowl as it kneads rather than riding around the edges.) Remove dough hook, form dough into a tight ball, set in the bottom of the mixer bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place until dough has roughly doubled in volume, about 2 hours. 2. To Make the Dough in a Food Processor: Combine flour, yeast, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to combine. Add water, then turn on processor and process until dough forms a ball that rides around the bowl of the processor, about 30 seconds. Continue processing for 30 seconds longer. Transfer dough to a bowl, form a tight ball, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place until dough has roughly doubled in volume, about 2 hours. 3. To Make the Dough by Hand: Combine flour, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk to combine, then add water and stir with a wooden spoon until a rough ball of dough has formed. Set aside for 10 minutes. Turn dough out onto a countertop and knead until a smooth, silky ball has formed, about 10 minutes. Transfer dough to a bowl, form a tight ball, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place until dough has roughly doubled in volume, about 2 hours. 4. Pour a couple tablespoons olive oil in the bottom of a Detroit-style anodized aluminum pan or two 8- by 8-inch cake pans. (Split dough in half if using cake pans.) Transfer dough to pan(s) and turn to coat in oil. Press down on dough and spread it toward the edges. You won't be able to get it all the way to the edges; this is okay. Spread it as much as you can without tearing, then cover tightly in plastic and set aside for 30 minutes to allow dough to relax. Return to dough and stretch it out again. It should be able to reach the edges this time. If not, let it rest a little more and try again. To get the dough to stay in the corners, stretch it up beyond the corners so that it pulls back into place. Once dough is stretched, cover again and set aside while you make the sauce. 5. For the Sauce: Adjust oven rack to lowest position and preheat oven to 550°F (290°C), or as close to it as your oven gets. Heat 2 tablespoons (30ml) olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add minced garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, garlic powder, onion powder, and sugar. Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced to about 3 cups, about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt. 6. To Form the Pizza: Press down on dough with your fingertips to remove any large air bubbles. Lay half of pepperoni (if using) evenly over face of dough. Top with cheese, spreading it evenly all the way to the very edges of the pan, then add remaining pepperoni. Spoon sauce over surface in 3 even rows. (You will need only about half the sauce—save the rest for another pizza.) 7. Transfer to oven and bake until edges are black and bubbly and exposed cheese on top is starting to lightly brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a trivet or folded kitchen towel on countertop. 8. Run a thin metal spatula all the way around the edges of the pan to loosen the pizza. Carefully lift it out and slide it onto a cutting board. Cut pizza and serve.

Pink Baked Pasta

This is another great recipe from Open Kitchen--although I confess that I am not a huge pan of radicchio, so I substituted rainbow chard stems and beet greens to get the pink flavor.  Mine was more earthy and less bitter than the original.  I also eliminated prosciutto as well, but you could certainly choose to add it back in.  I thought it didn't add what you might hope it would, so better vegetarian

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium red onions, sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick wedges
2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 large head radicchio, cored and sliced into 1/2-inch-thick ribbons --or anything pink
salt
8 ounces soft goat cheese
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 pound short pasta, such as gemelli, strozzapreti, or penne
6 ounces fontina cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
generous gratings of nutmeg
10 to 12 grinds black pepper
1 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a large (3-quart) baking dish and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook until lightly browned and softened, 10 to 12 minutes total. After the first 7 minutes, add the garlic.

Add the radicchio and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook until wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. Crumble in the goat cheese, add the cream, and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Cook the pasta in a pot of liberally salted water until shy of al dente. You want it a little firmer than usual, as it will continue to soften while baking. Scoop out 1 cup of the pasta water, drain pasta, and add the pasta and the water to the skillet with the vegetables, stirring.

Fold in two-thirds of the fontina cheese. Toss well and season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Transfer to the prepared baking dish. Dot the top with the remaining fontina cheese and sprinkle with the parmigiano cheese. Transfer to the oven and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until golden brown on top and bubbling at the edges. Serve immediately.

Alternatively, let the assembled dish cool, cover with foil, and refrigerate until ready to serve. Take out of the refrigerator about 1 hour before baking and bake 45 to 50 minutes.

 

Kenji's Italian-American Meatballs

Kenji Alt-Lopez has made a career around making things the best that they can be.  We have becomes big fans during the pandemic, where we really have not enjoyed either dine-in or take out options.  We did a dine-in option and it was so uncomfortable as to be unpleasant, and while we have tried to get far better at ordering things to take out that will hold up to the trip home, nothing has been as good as if we had eaten it at the restaurant.  So instead, we are making things that we would normally only eat out.  Which is where Kenji steps in.  These are really good, but I think I prefer the Rao's fried version.  But the moisture and texture of these is divine.

• 1 packet unflavored gelatin (optional, see note)
• 1/2 cup stock
• 4 ounces fresh white bread, crusts removed and bread cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 2 unpacked cups)
• 1/3 cup buttermilk, plus more as needed
• 1 medium onion, minced
• 8 cloves minced garlic
• 2 ounces grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated, plus more for serving.
• 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves, minced
• 3 teaspoons kosher salt (14 grams; see note)
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 ounces fatty pancetta, finely minced (see note)
• 4 large egg yolks
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed
• 1 pound ground beef (at least 25% fat)
• 1 pound ground pork (at least 25% fat)
• 5 cups tomato sauce

1. In a heatproof measuring cup, sprinkle gelatin all over surface of stock and let stand for 5 minutes (if not using stock and gelatin, proceed to Step 2). Microwave stock, stirring once or twice, until gelatin completely dissolves, about 2 minutes. Pour stock into a wide heatproof bowl and refrigerate until fully set, about 30 minutes.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine bread with buttermilk, tossing to coat. Let stand, tossing occasionally, until bread is completely moist, about 10 minutes. Squeeze bread between your fingers or mash with a spoon to make sure there are no dry spots; if there are dry spots that refuse to moisten, add more buttermilk 1 tablespoon at a time until bread is moist throughout.
3. Add onion, garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, parsley, salt, pepper, pancetta, egg yolks, oregano, and fennel to bread/buttermilk mixture. Finely mince gelled stock, if using, and add.
4. Set mixer bowl in stand mixer and attach paddle. Starting at low speed and gradually increasing to medium-high speed, beat bread mixture until thoroughly blended, stopping to scrape down sides as necessary. Add 1/3 each of the beef and pork and beat at medium-high speed until thoroughly blended with bread mixture.
5. Remove bowl from stand mixer and add remaining beef and pork. Using a clean hand, gently mix meatball mixture, teasing apart ground meat with your fingers, just until ground beef and pork are thoroughly distributed throughout; avoid mixing any more than is necessary for even distribution.
6. Preheat broiler and set oven rack in upper position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Form meatball mixture into handball-sized balls and arrange on prepared baking sheet; you should be able to make about 10. Broil meatballs until browned on top, about 7 minutes (browning times can vary dramatically, depending on oven broiler strength).
7. Heat tomato sauce in a medium pot until simmering and add meatballs. Simmer until meatballs are just cooked through and register about 145°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 minutes.
8. Serve meatballs, spooning sauce all over and grating more cheese on top.

 

Rao's Meatballs

Due to the pandemic we ended up getting a cow.  We had talked about it for quite some time, but were never quite ready to pull the trigger.  A cow seems big, and maybe we would be in a bit over our head.  Then came COVID and some supply chain issues that were not limited to but included beef and the idea had much more appeal.
So here we are, with a freezer full of beef and all ready to make new things with it.
Rao's is an old favorite, and these meatballs did not disappoint.

• 1 pound lean ground beef
• ¹/₂ pound ground veal
• ¹/₂ pound ground pork
• 2 large eggs
• 1 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
• 1 ¹/₂ tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
• ¹/₂ small clove garlic, peeled and minced
• 1 pinch Kosher or sea salt, to taste
• 1 pinch Freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 2 cups fresh bread crumbs
• 2 cups lukewarm water
• 1 cup good quality olive oil, for cooking

1. Combine beef, veal, and pork in a large bowl. Add the eggs, cheese, parsley, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Using your hands, blend ingredients together. Blend bread crumbs into meat mixture. Slowly add water, 1 cup at a time, until the mixture is quite moist. Shape into 2 1/2 to 3-inch balls.
2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan. When oil is very hot but not smoking, fry meatballs in batches. When the bottom half of the meatball is very brown and slightly crisp, turn and cook top half. Remove from heat and drain on paper towels.
3. Lower cooked meatballs into simmering marinara sauce and cook for 15 minutes. Serve alone or with pasta.

Crispy Skillet Pan Pizza

This month the Food 52 Cookbook Club made a bow to the pandemic, and allowed recipes from their web site in addition to the cookbook selected for the month.  Many members take the cookbook out of their library rather than purchase it (which is where I usually start as well), but that is not an option last month (or this).  So in that spirit, the recipe comes from King Arthur and is incredibly delicious.  Do not be put off by the incredibly lengthy directions!

• 2 cups (240 grams) all-purpose flour (such as King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour)
• 3/4 teaspoons fine salt (like table salt or fine sea salt)
• 1/2 teaspoon instant yeast or active dry yeast
• 3/4 cups (170 grams) lukewarm water
• 1 tablespoon (13 grams) olive oil plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (18 grams) olive oil for the pan
• 6 ounces (170 grams) low-moisture mozzarella, grated (about 1 1/4 cups, loosely packed)*
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup (74 grams to 113 grams) tomato sauce or pizza sauce, homemade or store-bought
• Freshly grated hard cheese and fresh herbs for sprinkling on top after baking, optional*

1. Weigh your flour, or measure it by gently spooning it into the cup, then sweeping off any excess.
2. Place the flour, salt, yeast, water, and 1 tablespoon (13 grams) of the olive oil in the bowl of a stand mixer or other medium-large mixing bowl.
3. Stir everything together to make a shaggy, sticky mass of dough with no dry patches of flour. This should take 30 to 45 seconds in a mixer using the beater paddle; or about 1 minute by hand, using a spoon or spatula. Scrape down the sides of the bowl to gather the dough into a rough ball, then cover the bowl.
4. After 5 minutes, uncover the bowl and reach a bowl scraper or your wet hand down between the side of the bowl and the dough, as though you were going to lift the dough out. Instead of lifting, stretch the bottom of the dough up and over its top. Repeat three more times, turning the bowl 90 degrees each time. This process of four stretches, which takes the place of kneading, is called a fold.
5. Re-cover the bowl, and after 5 minutes do another fold. Wait 5 minutes and repeat, then another 5 minutes and do a fourth and final fold. Cover the bowl and let the dough rest, undisturbed, for 40 minutes. Then refrigerate it, covered, for a minimum of 12 hours, or up to 72 hours. (Alternatively, if you don't have room in your fridge for the bowl, transfer the dough to a gallon-sized ziplock bag with a little extra olive oil to coat the inside of the bag.) It'll rise slowly as it chills, developing flavor; this long rise will also add flexibility to your schedule.
6. About 3 hours before you want to serve your pizza, prepare your pan. Pour 1 1/2 tablespoons (18 grams) olive oil into a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet that’s 10 inches to 11 inches diameter across the top, and about 9 inches across the bottom. Heavy, dark cast iron will give you a superb crust, but if you don’t have it, use another oven-safe heavy-bottomed skillet of similar size, or a 10-inch round cake pan or 9-inch square pan. Tilt the pan to spread the oil across the bottom, and use your fingers or a paper towel to spread some oil up the edges, as well.
7. Transfer the dough to the pan and turn it once to coat both sides with the oil. After coating the dough in oil, press the dough to the edges of the pan, dimpling it using the tips of your fingers in the process. The dough may start to resist and shrink back—that’s okay, just cover it and let it rest for about 15 minutes, then repeat the dimpling and pressing. At this point the dough should reach the edges of the pan—if it doesn’t, give it one more 15-minute rest before dimpling and pressing a third and final time.
8. Cover the crust and let it rise for 2 hours at room temperature. The fully risen dough will look soft and pillowy and will jiggle when you gently shake the pan.
9. About 30 minutes before baking, place one rack at the bottom of the oven and one toward the top (about 4 to 5 inches from the top heating element). Heat the oven to 450°F.
10. When you’re ready to bake the pizza, sprinkle about three-quarters of the mozzarella (a scant 1 cup) evenly over the crust. Cover the entire crust, no bare dough showing—this will yield caramelized edges. Dollop small spoonfuls of the sauce over the cheese (don't spread it!)—laying the cheese down first like this will prevent the sauce from seeping into the crust and making it soggy. Sprinkle on the remaining mozzarella.
11. Bake the pizza on the bottom rack of the oven for 18 to 20 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and the bottom and edges of the crust are a rich golden brown (use a spatula to check the bottom). If the bottom is brown but the top still seems pale, transfer the pizza to the top rack and bake for 2 to 4 minutes longer. On the other hand, if the top seems fine but the bottom's not browned to your liking, leave the pizza on the bottom rack for another 2 to 4 minutes. Home ovens can vary a lot, so use the visual cues and your own preferences to gauge when you’ve achieved the perfect bake.
12. Remove the pizza from the oven and place the pan on a heatproof surface. Carefully run a table knife or spatula between the edge of the pizza and side of the pan to prevent the cheese from sticking as it cools. Let the pizza cool very briefly, then as soon as you feel comfortable doing so, carefully transfer it from the pan to a cooling rack or cutting surface. This will prevent the crust from becoming soggy.
13. Serve the pizza anywhere from medium-hot to warm.