Itanoni, Oaxaca, Mexico

I missed this restaurant on my first trip to Oaxaca, and it turns out that that was a serious error on my part.  This is a place that is all about the corn.  They buy native varieties of corn and then they make the tortillas on site.  It is worth the price of admission just to watch that part of the meal being made.  But wait, there is more.  The tortillas themselves are so flavorful and delicious that it is hard not to compare every other tortilla that you have to them.

The dishes at Itanoni are anteojitos, which are little dishes, although the word is sometimes translated as appetizers the better way to look at it is like tapas or little dishes.  This is very good news, because you can order 2-3 per person at lunch and not be overwhelmed.  The Pictured at left is a tetela, a triangle of tortilla filled with various stuffings, and it is outstanding.

If you want to revel in the simplicity of corn, then the memelitas are the way to go.  I ordered one and loved it so much that I ordered another one.  The first was made with red corn, and the second with black corn--they were so different in flavor that it was hard to tell they were otherwise identical.  It is a place that is well worth coming and returning to.  It is said to be Alice Waters favorite place in Oaxaca and I can see why.  The simplicity of the food married with it's deliciousness is a part of her mantra.