Restaurante Alameda, Hondarribia, Spain

This was a fancy restaurant in a bustling seaside town in Northern Spain, the most atmosperically fancy place we ate on this trip. There were gorgeous sculptures made from large pieces of wood that towered over table in the dining room, while we ate outside on the reiver's side. The food was all from the region, and it was seasonal. We started off with Fois gras truffles and several fish dishes, and finished with some fruit forward desserts. The one pictured here, a green apple and green pea sorbet, was unusual, refreshing and unexpectedly delicious. The food here was notable for unexpected pops, and I would highly recommend this as a destination.

El Doncel, Sigüenza, Spain

We drove back to Madrid the long way, skirting the Pyrenees (beautiful) and stopped at El Doncel in Sigüenza for lunch. It is a peaceful town and the lunch was spectacular. We had the short form tasting menu, and no breakfast (which I recommend for this style of dining!!). The restaurant was lovely from a physical plant stand point, and the wait staff was especially attentive in an unannoying manner.

This is an inland location, and as such the menu was more of a balance between food from the land and the sea. I did not care for the cod, which was served in a sauce made from the balance bladder from the fish, and it was too strongly flavored for me, and it stuck to my tongue for just a bit too long. Otherwise this was another spectacular meal, and paired with some Spanish wine it was impressive, especially when you consider how underpopulate the town was. We arrived a bit early so got a chance to spend some time outside prior to the restaurant opened up, and the towns people we encountered were quite helpful and friendly.

Bacira, Madrid, Spain

This was absolutely the best deal of the trip, and an excellent meal. The tasting menu was an excellent deal and the wine pairing was even bettr--well chosen wines, generous portions, and all from Spain. I would highly recommend you add this to your Madrid itinerary. It is a Bib Gourmand restaurant, which is often our favorite type of restaurant, and here is from the Michelin website: A perfect example of friendship, hard work and, above all, an unconditional love for cooking. Here, the three owner-chefs at the helm, Carlos Langreo, Vicente de la Red and Gabriel Zapata, each specialise in a different type of cuisine (traditional Mediterranean, Japanese and Nikkei) but who are receptive to new trends and an inclination towards fusion cooking. The atmosphere here is both welcoming and informal with a vintage decor that includes slender wrought-iron columns. There are two tasting menus and we went for the long one--perhaps erroneaous as we could barely move afterwards, but overall a spectacular meal.

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain

The Sagrada Familia is apparently the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world. When I was last here twenty five years ago it was an all out ruin, a project abandoned.

What is La Sagrada Familia famous for? It is famous for being one of the most iconic examples of Antoni Gaudí's unique style, combining elements of Art Nouveau, Catalan Modernism, and Spanish Late Gothic design. The theme of nature figures prominently in Gaudí's design, both in terms of symbolism and the use of organic shapes and forms. Peaking out of openings as you go down the stairs you see a ceramic mosaic tiled pineapple(see below).

The most astounding part of the construction that has been completed since I was last there is the stained glass. It is everywhere and it is mesmerizing. It is also not religious (unless you see awe-inspiring art as spiritual)--which is ironic, because the initial inspiration and funding for the project was aimed at increasing Catholocism in Barcelona, which was waning at the time.

Would Gaudi be surprised that a construction project begun in 1882 was not yet finished almost 150 years later? No. When Gaudí died in 1926, only the Nativity facade, one tower, the apse, and the crypt were finished. Gaudí, whose tomb is beneath the cathedral, knew he would not live to see the completion of his vision, believing it would take 200 years. La Sagrada Familia was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984.

Xerta, Barcelona, Spain

This is a very good, Michelin-starred restaurtant but amazingly, it was my least favorite meal that I had on a recent trip to Barcelona.

It offers up traditional cuisine of Terres de l’Ebre with innovative touches. Chef Fran Lopez cooks with quality products & local produce. The team creates a cuisine based on the product and by the market, with innovative touches without losing the essence of the traditional cuisine that allowed him treasuring several international awards. The ingredients are top notch, and if you like theater with your meal (a hallmark of starred restaurants), Xerta delivers.

The one resounding success is the seafood. The Mediterranean Sea may be waning in the volume of food that comes out of it, but the quality remains exceptional. This was the first meal where 1/2 the dining party did just plant and seafood, no land-based animals at all in an effort to really enjoy this bounty.

Alkimia, Barcelona, Spain

Our first fancy dining experience on our 2022 trip to Barcelona!

This is a gorgeous dining room, mostly contemporary with lots of texture in the design, and each portion of the dining room has a slightly different feel. We had this wonderful view into the kitchen--I love when you can see your food being prepared. The chef is Jordi Vilà and the focus is on a fusion of traditional Catalan food with a contemporary twist.

We decided that while the non-seafod parts of the meal were very good, that they really did not hold up when compared to the amazing things that came out of the ocean and underwent preparation in this kitchen. I would recommend this as the third best dining experience we had, and it was here that we learned about the place that was the runaway winner. TRhe wiat staff were exceptional here, equal to the food and a plus to the experience.

Picasso Does Velázquez

During the summer of 1957, Picassoworked on a large series of fifty-eight canvases in near isolation, allowing few visitors to see his work. Forty-four of these canvases were directly inspired by Diego Velázquez’s masterpiece Las meninas (ca. 1656), which he had first seen as an adolescent at the Prado and used as a model for copying his jesters and dwarfs.

All of the figures from the old master’s canvas are present, playing the same roles and occupying similar positions. Investigating the complex spatial organization and figure grouping of Velázquez’s famous canvas, Picasso employs an effectual and fragmented black, gray, and white palette in order to provide structure to the space and its figures. Velázquez himself looms larger in Picasso’s version than in his own, an homage to the old master as creator, and holds two palettes rather than one, though neither canvas reveals what the artist is painting.

The entire series is on view in the Museu Picasso and it is a marvel to behold. By painting so many variations, he sought to understand the key elements of a work he so admired while also giving his Meninas a life of their own.

Hisop, Barcelona, Spain

The restaurant is named after an aromatic Mediterranean plant, is one of the least expensive Michelin starred restaurants I have eaten at--the tasting menu, which we enjoyed as a late lunch, is a joy to experience from start to finish. In the contemporary, minimalist-style dining room, chef Oriol Ivern serves fresh, creative dishes that offer a different take on Catalan culinary tradition, and are always based around locally sourced seasonal ingredients and impressive combinations. In keeping with the chef’s personality, the aim of his cuisine is to offer truly unique dishes that are both playful and full of surprising detail. This first dish is a great example--cod tripe--which is aptly named but we did not inquire too much further--was amazing in both flavor and texture, and we are not likely to have anything like it anywhere else.

Half of our party, myself included, and Hisop is well known for doing fish well--this is their famous mullet, and it was exceptional.

The wine and the cheese are just as wonderful as the rest of the menu. An extensive wine list featuring some 250 references of Spanish D.O. and other wine regions, with an emphasis on Catalan wines, has been carefully created to play an important role in the overall experience.

Picasso Museum, Barcelona, Spain

This museum is largely populated with early works by Picasso, and is rich in the history of his development as an artist. It is a must see, and if I were back in Barcelona, I would go back, as I am sure there are many things that I missed that have the potential to move me. Picasso was born in the town of Málaga but his family moved to Barcelona when he was a young boy. The origins of the museum lie in the desire of Picasso’s life-long friend Jaume Sabartés — to whom Picasso had given many of his paintings, sculptures and other artworks — to open a public museum for all to enjoy Picasso’s oeuvre. The building is 14th century Gothic.

This series of paintings of pigeons is quite striking, all displayed in one room. They were painted in the amid to late 1950's. Many of Picasso's works produced during the later 1950s show views through a window or out over a balcony. Some of these may have been inspired by the actual layout of the studio at La Californie. However, these balcony views also recalled the work of Henri Matisse, who died in 1954 and had been both a friend and a rival to Picasso for over half a century.

Lastly, the ceramics on display, which are mostly from the 1960's, show anothe side of Picasso as an artist. Some are (to me) unattractive, but many have the playfulness of this piece, and are also potentially functional.

Bar Celta Pulperia, Barcelona, Spain

We mostly did a straight ahead high end one meal a day approach to our recent trip to Barcelona--it is a great city to do that in, and in the 5 days that we were there, we did not exhaust the supply of that sort of place. This is an exception to that rule, and I would argue that with the quality of the seafood that comes out of the Mediterranean and into the numerous neighborhood markets in town, you can eat very well at the more affordable end and eat very well indeed.

This is a bustling place that we had reservations for (so you can go that route), but then walked in much earlier than planned and were seated--the tables are close together and there is a long bar with seating as well, so not exactly COVID safe dining, but very much the style of places we have eaten throughout Spain and love. Bar Celta is know for it's octopus, so we had it two different preparation styles--pulpa a la plancha and pulpa a feira--I liked the former best, but they were both very good.

They were out of clams, so was unable to have my favorite dish, which is clams cooked in olive oil and garlic, but my second favorite is gambas cooked the same way. The sweetness of the seafood married with the garlic and olive oil is something so memorable it is imprinted on my senses, I can almost taste it looking at this photo weeks later. We will just have to go back.

Fundació Antoni Tàpies, Barcelona, Spain

The Fundació Antoni Tàpies is a cultural center and museum, located in Carrer d'Aragó, in Barcelona, Catalonia. It is dedicated mainly to the life and works of the painter Antoni Tàpies. The Fundació was created in 1984 by the artist Antoni Tàpies to promote the study and knowledge of modern and contemporary art. To that end, the Fundació opened its doors in June 1990 in the building of the former Editorial Montaner i Simon publishing house, the work of the Modernist architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, restored and refurbished by the architects Roser Amadó and Lluís Domènech Girbau. Constructed between 1880 and 1881, at an early stage of the evolution of Catalan Modernism, the building was the first in the Eixample district to integrate industrial typology and technology, combining exposed brick and iron, into the fabric of the city center.

Antoni Tàpies’ first artistic attempts began during a long convalescence following a serious illness, after which his increasing dedication to painting and drawing led him to abandon his university education. By the 1940s, he was already exhibiting work that distinguished him among the artistic scene of the moment. Co-founder of the magazine Dau al Setin 1948, and influenced by Miró and Klee, he became increasingly interested in iconographic and magical subjects. He gradually began to incorporate geometrical elements and colour studies leading to an interest in matter through the use of heavily textured canvases of great expressive and communicative possibilities.

So the building is beautiful and the art is evocative. One of my friends made the comment that perhaps the reason that the artist was so deeply affected by atrocities that happened at the end of the 20th century was that Catalunya has a very troubled past, most recently under Franco, and therefore they understand better than most how a culture and a people can be violently repressed.

Alapar, Barcelona, Spain

One of the very best meals that I have had in an adulthood that could be characterized by having above average food on a regular basis, was at a restaurant called Pakta in Barcelona in 2013. I was so disappointed when I learned, through a search for places to eat on my recent return trip, that is had closed during COVID. Then, at a meal we had at another restaurant, our sommelier recommended this, and noted it is in the same place as Pakta and with the same chef. Instead of Peruvian-Japanese fusion food it is Mediteranean-Japanese fusion food. Let me just say it was spectacular.

Maybe we were influenced by a week of eating tasting menus and making almost no choices, but we elected to allow the chef to choose our meal entirely. We put in the caveat that while we were not pescatarians and we would definitely eat dishes that had meat in them that we wanted to avoid dishes that were solely meat based. The courses that we had, about 9 in all, were uniformly delicious, beautifully plated, and the seafood was fresh and delicious.

I am not a fan of raw fish in general and this meal is the exception to that tendancy of mine. We had not one but two dishes that were raw mackeral, so not just uncooked but also a fish that I am generally not fond of--not to worry, they were both amazing, and so enjoyable that it would change what I would risk eating in the future. If you can only eat one place in Barcelona this should be the place.

Las Medinas, Diego Velazquez, 1656

Velázquez displayed a mastery of light and shadow, a flair for rendering the minute details of surface and texture (something that some Baroque masters, like his Italian precursor Carvaggio, did not dwell on), and a talent for capturing the likenesses of people.
This is probably the best known of his paintings, and it depicts members of the royal court and family.  The painting is set in Velázquez’s studio space at the Royal Alcázar of Madrid, the fortress-turned-palace where the king and his family lived.  At the center of the chamber stands the princess—also referred to as the empress and the infanta—Doña Margarita Maria of Austria, the first child of Philip IV and his second wife Mariana. Directly to her left and right are the titular meninas, the ladies-in-waiting, who would accompany and attend to the young royal in her daily routine.  Further to the right stand the dwarf Maribárbola and court jester Nicolás Pertusato (or Nicolasito), who were a part of the royal household.  Just behind the meninas is a nun, Doña Marcela de Ulloa, who appears to be caught mid-discussion speaking with an unidentified guard. To the left, we see Velázquez himself, peering out from behind a large canvas. He wears a fine black courtier costume, including a cape and the red cross of Santiago painted on his chest. This symbol was a marker of his knighthood, which the king bestowed upon him in 1659.  Finally, the king and queen are caught in the reflection of the mirror, just as we the viewer would be caught had we been there.  I think Dali is a descendant of this Velazquez.

Surrender at Breda, Diego Velazquez, 1635

Diego Rodríguez de Silva y Velázquez was born in 1599 in Seville, Spain, to a family of minor nobility. He demonstrated an aptitude for painting from an early age, becoming an apprentice to the painter Juan de Herrera when he was around 11 years old. The boy went on to study for five years with Francisco Pacheco, known for his Mannerist technical style.
Velázquez would eventually marry Pacheco’s daughter, Juana, and the elder painter would remain a mentor to him.  By the 1620s, Velázquez’s early work had earned him a following in Seville. 
In 1625, after a ten-month siege, the city of Breda in southern Holland surrendered to the Spaniards under the famed Spanish General Don Ambrogio Spinola. The painting illustrates the ceremonial exchange of keys that took place three days after the official capitulation of the Dutch forces at Breda. Thus the focus of the painting is not on the battle, but rather the reconciliation. It demonstrated that Spinola was a fair winner.

La Campana, Madrid, Spain

We stayed in a great apartment near the Plaza Mayor, and there were a number of restaurants there that were featured on an Anthony Boudain show at one time or another.  I have not loved either of the two books of his that I have read, but I really like his approach to food as it intersects with culture and local specialties.
La Campana is right off one of the six or so entrances to the Plaza Mayor, and it is a bustling place.  I ordered the tortilla espanola, which is a dish that I love but rarely make, and this version was heavenly.  The egg was light and the potato cooked enough to be soft but with some tooth feel, and perfectly seasoned.  The olives that I had to accompany this simple repast were perfect.  And the whole meal, with my cafe au lait, was less than 5 euros. 
Added to the food was the ambiance, which was perfect, a bit like a pinxchos bar in the north, where you get your food and then go back to pay for it once you are well and done.  Lots of good people watching as well.

Phillip IV and Velazquez

The Prado has an exceptional collection of Velazquez' work.   Diego Velázquez (1599–1660) was the leading artist in the court of King Philip IV, one of the greatest art collecting Spanish kings.  In addition to numerous renditions of scenes of historical and cultural significance, he created scores of portraits of the Spanish royal family, other notable European figures, and commoners. In many portraits, Velázquez gave a dignified quality to less fortunate members of society like beggars and dwarfs. In contrast to these portraits, the gods and goddesses of Velázquez tend to be portrayed as common people, without divine characteristics.

Besides the forty portraits of Philip by Velázquez, he painted portraits of other members of the royal family, including princes, infantas (princesses), and queens.  One thing that struck me when I was in the gallery that displayed these huge paintings of the royal family was not only did Velazquez paint the family as he saw them, but that there was  tremendous family resemblance between each of them.  To the left is Phillip IV's brother, and above is he, painted at about the same time, 1626-8.

Sala de Despiece, Madrid, Spain

 This was the restaurant that we would most definitely go back to that we ate at our last trip.The food here is innovative and delicious, heavy on the seafood options, and beautifully prepared and presented.  It is also reasonably priced.
My favorite dish was a potato dish, but second was a Mediterranean shrimp followed by razor clams.  My husband thought the beef carpachio followed by a sous vide egg yolk dish.  So there is a lot going on here to love.
Yum!

The front of the house is a bustling continuous bar where you sit with strangers and elbow in to get a table.  We are in the back room, which is almost certainly a cooler that has been converted into a dining room. We ate there with another group, and we all ended up with the same food.  Enjoyment was high, and reasonably priced wine was available as well.

Nobleman with His Hand on His Chest, El Greco, 1580

Back to the Prado.  Spanish art is the visual art of Spain and that of Spanish artists worldwide. Understand the influence and importance of El Greco, Velázquez, and Goya, and Spanish art distinctive characteristics is a window into the culture. These differences can be partly explained by the Moorish heritage in Spain, especially in Andalucía, and partly on the wealth of the New World.
El Greco (1541–1614) was one of the most individualistic of the painters of the period, developing a strongly Mannerist style based on his origins in the post Byzantine Cretan school, in contrast to the naturalist approaches then predominant in Seville, Madrid and elsewhere in Spain. Many of his works reflect the silvery-greys and strong colors of Venetian painters such as Titian, but combined with strange elongations of figures, unusual lighting, disposing of perspective space, and filling the surface with very visible and expressive brushwork.
The nobleman, tentatively identified as Juan da Silva, was the notary major of Toledo. Because he is a gentleman, he wears a lace collar and cuffs, pendant, and sword.  The painter emphasized the nobleman’s illuminated hand and fingers. As a result, they have been variously interpreted as repentance, a vow, some rhetorical gesture, or simply a strong composition.

Still Life with Game, Vegetables and Fruit by Juan Sanchez Cotan, 1602

This is the first of at least several posts that I hope to do on paintings I saw in the Prado but was unable to photograph.  In their defense, they have beautiful digital versions of their entire collection on their website, but it remains  somewhat annoying to find the exact ones I loved most.  First world problems, I get it.  The amusing thing is that every guard that I had a conversation with wanted to talk for minutes about it rather than a swift "no" and that be the end of it.
This is considered the first surviving bodegon, or Spanish still life.  As a result, it is one of the most famous paintings in the Prado. It is one of six known Sanchez Cotan paintings.  Despite the lack of volume, he is still known as the father of Spanish still life painting.  As a result, Sanchez Cotan’s style – a strong light source illuminating objects set against a black background –  heavily influenced Spanish painters and subsequently influenced other European painters.  He abandoned painting for a religious life.  I love how everything jumps out of the painting at you, and it is in a gallery with a number of other such paintings.  Even the name of the painting points to the high degree of detail Sanchez Cotan saw in life.

Club Allard, Madrid, Spain

El Club Allard, a 2 Michelin star private hideaway in the centre of Madrid, stands within “Casa Gallardo”, a splendid building with a Modernist Style, designed by Federico Arias Rey and built in 1908, situated on Calle Ferraz nº 2 at the corner of Plaza de España.  The Egyptian Debod Temple is opposite it in a huge park and we walked from there to the restaurant, only to encounter a huge amount of construction and a need to not just cross a street but rather to make a 20 minute, several block detour.  It was our over the top meal for the trip and it did not disappoint.

We had the Gourmet tasting menu and shared one wine pairing between the two of us.  Unlike some restaurants of this quality and service, the lunch menu is no different--and no cheaper--than the dinner menu.  Come very hungry because it is a large meal.  I could barely eat the following day.

A couple of things.  This was a seafood forward tasting menu, which is my favorite, living in a landlocked neighborhood as I do.  If there are things that you don't eat, they will substitute for you.  And the place is very elegant, so a sumptuous dining experience that you do not have to dress up for (there were guests in t-shirts).  The wine pairing is excellent (and pricey) and the whole experience was spectacular.