This is an absolutely delicious recipe from Andy Ricker at Pok Pok. But we warned, if you start it today you will not be eating it for a while and you will know the inside and outside of each and every bird quite well by the time you get to taste it. The end result is entirely worth the wait.
- 3 Cornish game hens, rinsed inside and out
Brine
- 1/2 cup kosher salt
- 1/4 cup superfine sugar
- 10 cups tepid water
- 5 or 6 unpeeled garlic cloves
- 1 teaspoon white peppercorns
- A thumb-size hunk of unpeeled ginger, coarsely sliced against the grain
- 1 large unpeeled stalk lemongrass, cut into 2-inch lengths
- A small handful cilantro stems, preferably with roots attached, torn in half
- 2 or 3 whole green onions, torn in half
Stuffing
- 3 large stalks lemongrass, outer layer, bottom 1/2 inch, and top 4 inches removed
- 3 3/4 ounces unpeeled garlic cloves, halved lengthwise (about 3/4 cup)
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon ground white pepper
- 2 ounces thinly sliced cilantro stems (about 1/2 cup)
Marinade
- 2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce
- 2 tablespoons Thai thin soy sauce
- 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons water
Basting Liquids
- A couple tablespoons garlic oil
- 1/4 cup honey mixed well with 2 tablespoons hot water
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Brine the birds:
Whisk the salt and sugar with the 10 cups of tepid water in a large
mixing bowl or pot until the sugar and salt fully dissolve. Combine the
garlic, peppercorns, ginger, and lemongrass in a mortar and lightly
pound to bruise and slightly crush them. Add them along with the
cilantro and green onions to the brine, then add the birds breast side
down. If they float, weigh them down with a plate. If the birds still
aren’t completely submerged, choose a different container. Cover and
refrigerate for at least 4 hours or, even better, overnight.
-
Make the stuffing and stuff the birds: Remove the birds, discarding the brine, and sit them ass down in a colander to drain.
Cut the lemongrass crosswise (tough parts, too) into rough 1/8-inch
slices. Firmly pound it in a granite mortar until it’s very fragrant,
about 10 seconds. Add the garlic and pound to break it into small pieces
(you’re not making a paste), about 20 seconds. Add the salt and pepper,
pound briefly, then add the cilantro stems and pound to bruise them,
about 10 seconds more.
-
Divide the stuffing equally among the
birds’ cavities, set the birds breast side up on a plate (or even
better, a rack set over a tray) so there’s some space between them. Tuck
each wing tip under the body. Put the birds in the fridge, uncovered,
to dry out for at least 4 hours or up to 12 hours.
-
Marinate the birds:
Stir the fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and pepper in a small bowl along
with the 2 tablespoons of water until the sugar is fully dissolved.
Brush the birds with the marinade, then put them back, uncovered, into
the fridge for about 2 hours.
-
Cook the birds on the grill (highly recommended):
Prepare a charcoal grill to cook at 350°F to 375°F. If your grill
doesn’t have a firebox, which allows for easy indirect cooking, push the
coals to one side of the grill and form them into a mound. Add the
birds, breasts up, to the grill rack opposite the charcoal, and cover
the grill, opening the vents and rotating the grill cover if possible so
the vents are directly over the birds. Positioning the open vents above
the birds will pull the charcoal smoke toward them, giving them a
little more smoky flavor. While you cook, you’ll have to add more
charcoal as necessary to maintain the temperature.
-
Cook for 25 minutes, flip the birds
over to get some color on the other side, and after about 5 minutes
more, flip the birds over again.
-
If you’re not cooking on a grill with a
firebox, carefully remove the birds and the grill grate. Spread out the
coals so that instead of mound, they’re lying in one or two layers,
still on one side of the grill. Return the grate and the birds to the
grill.
-
Continue cooking, covered, with the
birds on the side opposite the coals. After 5 minutes, brush the birds
all over with the shallot oil and re-cover. After 5 minutes more, brush
the birds all over with the honey mixture and move them so they’re
directly over the coals. Keep cooking, covered, turning over and
rotating the birds as necessary to achieve even browning and brushing
occasionally with the honey mixture, until the skin is a slightly glossy
golden brown with some dark patches and the juices of the thigh run
clear, 5 to 10 minutes more, depending on the size of the bird.
-
In the oven: Move the
oven rack to the bottom third of the oven, and preheat the oven to
350°F. Put the birds breast side up on a baking tray (or even better, a
rack set over a tray or roasting pan).
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Roast the birds for 30 minutes. Rotate
the pan and brush the birds all over with the shallot oil. Cook for 5
minutes more, then brush the birds all over with the honey mixture.
Crank up the heat to 400°F. Check on the birds every 5 minutes, brushing
them with the honey mixture, until the skin is a slightly glossy golden
brown with some darker patches and the juices run clear when you pierce
the thickest part of the thigh, about 10 minutes more, depending on the
size of the bird.
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Rest and carve the birds:
Let the birds rest for at least 10 minutes or up to 30 minutes. Serve
them whole or carved—it’s up to you—with the dipping sauces. At Pok Pok,
we halve the birds lengthwise, then remove the hindquarters and
separate them into drumsticks and thighs, remove the wings, and chop the
breast portions through the bone into two or three pieces.
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