Maison de Vicor Hugo, Paris, France

I read both Les Miserable and The Hunchback of Notre Dame when I was a teenager, my era of doing deep and thorough dives into the classics, and love Victor Hugo as a result. When I was looking for a museum that was small and hopefully not too crowded and not too far from our hotel for a recent Paris trip (I was trying very hard, maybe too hard, to avoid being jousled as I was less than two months past a shoulder replacement--I did not want to give up the trip, but also didn't wan an unforced error), this one was suggested. This intimate museum is located in the southeast corner of beautiful Place des Vosges. Stroll around the square to number 6 and look up to the second floor to see the windows where Hugo once lived. The buildings surrounding the Place des Vosges were inaugurated in 1612 in honor of Louis XIII’s wedding to Anne of Austria, and they’ve always been a fashionable address in Paris. Victor Hugo moved into an enormous 3,000 square foot apartment in October 1832 with his wife Adele, and it is here that Hugo wrote much of his most famous work Les Misérables and many other important works. The entire building was converted into a museum dedicated to Hugo’s life and works, and is now managed by the City of Paris. Inside the museum, visitors can explore a reception hall with family portraits, a salon (my favorite room) with an impressive collection of Chinoiserie, or Chinese style art and design, a family dining room, and Hugo’s bedroom with his original writing desk. Hugo’s creativity and passion extended well beyond writing, and the museum displays some of his drawings and the Gothic-style furniture he designed. It’s such an unique experience to be so close to where Hugo lived and to see the moments of daily life frozen in time. Hugo had the unusual preference to write standing up, and you can see how high his writing desk was compared to a nearby chair--ahead of his time. I very much enjoyed this and it takes very little time to see thoroughly and completely.

Qui Plume La Lune, Paris, France

Our last meal in France! We made it a good one, walking the mile or so from our hotel right outside Le Gard Notre train station, so we got a chance to experience the city a bit, even though I was still a bit under the weather from my shoulder replacement surgery, and not up to the usual marching about we do. Paris is a beautiful walking city and so well worth doing at least a bit of that. This is a wonderful place, with great atmosphere as well as food. Here is what they say on the Michelin website: Qui plume la Lune boasts two very different interiors: one with bare stone walls and natural materials and the other a riot of colour and dried flower compositions. The chef executes a creative score that showcases the season’s finest ingredients: fillet of croaker, risotto of tapioca pearls; tender beef fillet with mash and roast celery; poached pear and muscovado sorbet. The dishes are artfully plated and indulgently served, the cooking is spot on and the flavours and seasonings exquisitely balanced: just the ticket for a good meal in a warm, elegant setting. We were seated in the more formal half of the restaurant, pictured above, and very much enjoyed the meal.

La Grand Cerf, Villers-Allerand, France

We wended our way back towards Paris after a week in Alsace, and this part of the Champagne region is much more charming than staying in Reims proper. I had wanted to stay there, to see the famous church that Monet painted, but did not need to go back, and this restaurant was spectacular, well worth finding if you are in the neighborhood. Here is what they have to say on the Michelin web site: At the foot of the Montagne de Reims and on the road to Épernay, this imposing inn unabashedly brandishes its opulent style. Come evening, the elegant dining space done out in pale wood takes on a romantic air – the perfect setting for fine classic French cuisine delivered by chefs Dominique Giraudeau (who shone for many years in the kitchens of Gérard Boyer at Les Crayères) and his associate, Pascal Champion. On the menu, top-notch produce, from John Dory to free-range milk-fed veal, as well as game, lobster and truffles. We opted for the mid-sized menu--not the plat du jour, but one step up from that, and it was really lovely. The table ware was particularly nice, not fussy but quite pretty.

La Relais de la Poste, La Wantzenau, France

We ate on the patio at this one star Michelin restaurant for my birthday-- the nice thing about it, besides that it was a beautiful day and the patio is spacious, is that we were the only North Americans in the place and all the tables were occupied. They say that the chef and his team offer precise cuisine, elegant presentation, a discerning selection of locally sourced ingredients, and creative, flavorful dishes.

We couldn't agree more. I love the spring foods--aspagagus, spring peas, rhubarb, strawberries are all some of my favorites, and in this land locked region, the fish is from the river or the lake. I never quite got it before, but the terroir is finally something that I can taste--took years, decades really--before I really felt I knew the difference. We in the US have come to that party late, which left us with no sense of it, but as tariffs in the US rise, gas prices rise, and the availability of food that travels becomes less affordable, maybe the silver lining is that we develop the ability to grow and appreciate our own. This is a restaurant well worth going to celebrate, and they will talk about where they source their food, some of it from across the street.

Restaurant A L'Etoile, Boersch, France

This is a Michelin noted restaurant, and here is what they have to say about it: Tucked away in a small Alsace village on the Mont Sainte Odile road, this traditional hostelry, opened in 1920, is today run by the fourth generation. A warm welcome and honest, homely recipes, starring market-fresh produce and a slate menu.

The menu changes daily and is written on a slate board--so it is short and fresh. I am not a fan of offal, but if you are, about 1/3 of the menu consists of that, and but all of it is more French leaning than the traditional Alsatian food we had in some places we ate on this trip. I had a whole trout, very simply prepared by poaching it whole and then serving with browned butter with slivered almonds. My spouse had veal tonnato that was possibly the best version of that dish we have ever had. Overall it was very reasonably priced and deliciously prepared food--the menu is limited but varied, and I would recommend it.

Au Table du Gourmet, Riquewihr, Alsace, France

This was one of the most intensely herbal meals I have ever had and I loved it. They have a massive garden and they are not afraid to use it. The chef, Jean-Luc Brendel, describes himself as a chef, a gardiner, and a poet. All of this is evident in the food on offer at this gorgeous restaurant. From their own website: A chef's total commitment to sustainable and responsible gastronomy, in homage to nature and to his land of Alsace. Because the expression "cultivating one’s own garden" could have taken root here, Jean-Luc Brendel does a lot of the gardening, composts, selects, raises chickens and produces honey. He is the author of a spontaneous, fresh and free cuisine, a cuisine of the essential, of cultivated or wild products, of emotions and travels, and he signs his plates in green. Emotional upheaval and eco-responsibility.

The town itself if worth exploring and there are places to try the regional wines just around the corner from the restaurant. Riquewihr is a picturesque medieval village in the Alsace region of northeastern France, famous for its well-preserved 16th-century architecture, colorful half-timbered houses. So very cute, if also remarkably crowded with tourists, at least the older part of the town is pedestrian only. Really lovely, despite not having been discovered by us

Domaine Marcel Deiss, Bergheim, Alsace, France

And so we start our education of Alsace wines! We are staying on the edge of the Rue du Vin, and spent the day driving through charming villages. Our first tasting was at Domaine Marcel Deiss. Domaine Marcel Deiss ranks among the great wine estates of Alsace. The Deiss family—a lineage comprising winemakers, ironworkers, and bell founders—has been established in Bergheim since 1744. This was a great introduction to the wines of Alsace--we spent almost 2 hours tasting wine, learning about the wine growing history of Alsace, and how to approach the different wines that are characteristic of the region.

Domaine Marcel Deiss was founded in the aftermath of the Second World War, in 1947. The creation of the vineyard was the work of Marcel Deiss who has been joined by his son André, to establish an extensive wine estate based in Bergheim. They scoured the records left by the monks who had been growing grapes for wine for centuries, and discovered there used to be 130 different grape varieties—of which 110 survived to modern times and they grow 60 in their vineyards, bucking the trend of Alsace tradition that one grape from one vineyard makes a wine . His descendants—first Jean-Michel, then Mathieu Deiss—subsequently took over the family operation. Since 1997, every single parcel of the Domaine Marcel Deiss estate has been farmed biodynamically. We had fun, we learned a lot and I love their use of medieval art to label their wine.

Chez Yvonne, Strasbourg, France

This was the meal that my spouse wanted to have the first day but we couldn't quite swing, because for one, we were not quite in Alsace--we had a bit of a reboot on our travel plans because of my shoulder replacement surgery eight weeks before leaving me sore, winged, and uneasy of being joustled. The menu is written on a chalk board, it was heavy on tradition, and we really got a taste of regional food. In the restaurant's own words: Chez Yvonne is an iconic Winstub in the history of Strasbourg, where you can enjoy generous and traditional Alsatian cuisine in a friendly setting just steps from Strasbourg Cathedral. The establishment, founded by Eugène Jacquemet, first opened its doors in 1873 under the name "S'Burjerstuewel." In 1956, the restaurant adopted the name "Chez Yvonne," in honor of its new owner, Yvonne Haller. A prominent figure in the Alsatian capital, she gradually built the restaurant's reputation. The establishment is also renowned for the quality of its traditional dishes, appreciated by all gourmets. It has even been awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide. Even today, this historic restaurant of the Franco-German agreement seduces with its Alsatian dishes and its authentic atmosphere, a living reflection of the Alsatian gastronomic heritage.

La Grand Georgette, Reims, France

This was our first stop after landing in Paris. Originally we had planned to take the train to Alsace and rent a car from there, taking advantage of both the high speed nature of train travel in France as well as having an opportunity to nap a bit after a relatively sleepless night. Unexpectedly, between buying the airplane tickets and the actual trip I had a shoulder replacement surgery. It was perhaps both equal parts optimism and naïveté to follow through with with long ago planned travel to France when I was 7 weeks post-op, but after 5 weeks of doing not much but nurse my bum shoulder followed by 3 weeks of struggling to be back at work, I was ready for a bit of a vacation. Concessions were made and instead of taking a train to Alsace we opted instead to drive to Champagne (less chance of jostling on public transport) and we chose Reims! All I knew of the town is the 30 or so paintings Monet did of the cathedral here—I had postcards of 2 of them in my office forever after seeing them in a Monet exhibit long ago. What I did not know was that he was commissioned to paint them after it was bombed in WWI. The cathedral dates back to the 5th century and the current restored is a great example of Gothic architecture —with over 2,000 statues.

So it is all about the church--we stayed a block away and we ate in a restaurant in view of it. The meal was a bit fussier than what we usually aim for on the first day, and it was slow going between courses--a blessing and a curse when you are trying to stay awake, but this was a very good meal, well prepared, and with a glass of champagne each, of course. We were definitely not up for a bottle and what they had by the glass was less unique than their bottle selections, but overall I would recommend this.

Restaurante Lurrak, Arbonne, France

We spent almost a week in Basque country and one day of it was spent in French Basque ountry. We did not get to a memorable bakery, and we did not get any cheese, so that was disappointing to the point of needing to go back when time is less of an issue, but the restaurant we ate at was perfect.

The emphasis on seasonal food, and the fact that we were there when it was white asparagus, artichoke, and strawberry season was exceptional, and we were able to have these delicacies almost every day. The top picture is of a lightly pickle and thinly sliced kohlrabi that was absolutely the best version of this spring vegetable that I have ever had. The kitchen was small, as was the restaurant, but it was a memorable and delicious lunch!

Pondichéry, India

Yet another seaside town on the Bay of Bengal. Pondicherry, India, was under French rule for 138 years, from 1674 to 1954. In 1673, French officer Bellanger de l'Espinay moved into the Danish Lodge, marking the beginning of French administration. In 1674, François Martin, the first governor, began projects to turn the fishing village into a port town.

The transition away from French rule was gradual. In 1948, the French and Indian governments agreed that the inhabitants of the French Indian possessions would choose their political future. In 1954, the French possessions were transferred to the Indian Union and became a Union Territory. Puducherry officially became part of India in 1963. Many Tamil residents of Pondicherry have French passports because their ancestors were in French governmental service and chose to remain French at the time of Independence. In 2013, there were 9,950 French nationals in India. I was looking forward to being here, but while the architecture is definitely French. there are signs in French, and some people even speak a little French to this say, there wasn't much left. The "French Fusion" was heavily Indian influenced, and overall glad we spent just an afternoon here.

Gaya Pierre Gagnaire, Paris, France

This was our last lunch of the trip (which has been a stellar food trip, no doubt about it). I like to have a lot of things from the ocean when I travel to places that abutt the sea, and this was an especially accommodating menu for that goal. The Michelin website says: Chef Pierre Gagnaire has a focus on good food in a bid to cater to modern French sensibilities with a seafaring slant (carpaccio of seabream, pink radishes and grapefruit; giant langoustine, cream of Paimpol beans, scallion onions) and a fondness for veggies.

The seafood platter for deux. There are about 40 tiny cockles sprinkled throughout that with some difficulty and a little finesse we were able to use the red topped toothpicks to get out the innards. One of my favorites—teeny tiny flavorful morsels! We really enjoyed this as the show stopping part of the meal, but there was much to love about this restaurant from start to finish.

Paris 1874 Inventing impressionism, Musée d'Orsay, Paris, France

150 years ago, on April 15, 1874, the first impressionist exhibition opened in Paris. “Hungry for independence”, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Morisot, Pissarro, Sisley and Cézanne finally decided to free themselves from the rules by holding their own exhibition, outside official channels: impressionism was born. To celebrate this anniversary, Musée d’Orsay presented some 130 works and bringing a fresh eye to bear on this key date, regarded as the day that launched the avant-gardes. It was stunning, so beautiful as to be almost overwhelming, and when the museum emailed me several says after I returned home with the question "did you see everything?" (wanting me to consider museum membership as a means of rectifying that) my reply was that I saw almost none of it, I just saw this amazing feast of color and talent.

In the museum's own words: What exactly happened in Paris in that spring of 1874, and what sense should we make today of an exhibition that has become legendary? “Paris 1874. The Impressionist Moment” seeks to trace the advent of an artistic movement that emerged in a rapidly changing world. “Paris 1874” reviews the circumstances that led these 31 artists (only seven of whom are well-known across the world today) to join forces and exhibit their works together. The period in question had a post-war climate, following two conflicts: the Franco-German War of 1870, and then a violent civil war. In this context of crisis, artists began to rethink their art and explore new directions. A little “clan of rebels” painted scenes of modern life, and landscapes sketched in the open air, in pale hues and with the lightest of touches. As one observer noted, “What they seem above all to be aiming at is an impression”.

Cimitiere Le Pere Lachaise, Paris, France

is where Jim Morrison, the Doors singer, is buried, but also numerous French statesmen, writers and singers. The Père Lachaise is located in the 20th arrondissement and was the first garden cemetery, as well as the first municipal cemetery in Paris. It is also the site of three World War I memorials—including one that wraps around the exterior wall, that lists names, Vietnam War memorial style, deaths by year, only the list is much longer. Like, 4 times as many French died in yhe Battle of the Somme as US soldiers died in the whole Vietnam War.

The cemetery of Père Lachaise opened in 1804 and takes its name from the confessor to Louis XIV, Père François de la Chaise (1624–1709), who lived in the Jesuit house rebuilt during 1682 on the site of the chapel. The property, situated on the hillside from which the king watched skirmishing between the armies of the Condé and Turenne during the Fronde, was bought by the city in 1804. Established as a cemetery by Napoleon during that year. It is a beautiful spot, but my spouse thinks the famous people should have been buried closer together.

Musée National Gustave Moreau, Paris, France

Gustave Moreau first rose to fame with the exhibition in the 1864 Salon of his Oedipe et le sphinx, though, from the 1880s onwards, he increasingly shrank from public exhibition. This enormous house in Nouvelle Athens with soaring ceilings, which had been his childhood home, became his increasing focus during this period of his life. In 1895, he commissioned the young architect Albert Lafon to convert it from hôtel particulier into a museum including a dedicated gallery space, private domestic quarters and studio. The latter extended over the second and third floor, connected by a small staircase, providing space for hundreds of paintings and thousands of drawings.

In 1897, Moreau decided to bequeath the house and its contents to the French nation, in the hope that its preservation in total would 'allow the public to appreciate the culmination of the artist's lifelong work and labour'. When it opened to the public in 1903, the Musée Moreau had in its collection some 14,000 works. The museum appears today much as it did then, and includes a major collection of paintings by Moreau. If you prefer architecture over paintings, all the more reason to tour this spectacular space.

Aux 2 K, Paris, France

After a very pleasant train ride to Paris, we shed our luggage and headed to Aux 2 K for a late lunch. It is tiny—only 10 two person tables that can be strung together for a larger gathering and a bathroom so small the sink is atop the toilet tank and I was slightly concerned I wouldn’t be able to both be seated and close the door, but the food was delicious! The table settings are lovely, this tuna tartar was delicious, but my favorite dish was the pollack with a sorrel puree underneath and peas on top. The fish was the star and pairing well with the lemony sorrel. My spouse favored the duck breast with white asparagus (which I get is super fancy, a spring delicacy, and a pain to grow, but after this trip, I know for sure I prefer the green version—more flavor!), and the most buttery polenta I have ever had.

Here is what the Michelin site says about this Bib Gourmand restaurant: The two K's refer to Kagy (Samantha, chef) and Kinoshita (Kimiko, pastry chef), a pair who joined forces after gaining a wealth of experience in some prestigious establishments (Violon d'Ingres, L'Ours, Atelier Joël Robuchon, Taillevent). Their abundant technical skill is clearly demonstrated in dishes that are as delicious as their names are enticing. A few nods to the South-West of France are a reminder of the influence of Christian Constant. A culinary feat pulled off with great care and finesse, and at lunchtime, a set menu at an unbeatable price.

Paris Reconsidered

We spent a little time in Paris our last trip to France. We are starting to love not having a connection in Europe, to fly to a city near where we want to end up and then get there by land. There are a lot of great things to say about that, but there is an issue with the end, where you need to be at least nearby to fly out. Last time we had a lovely late lunch just north of the Perigord, and then we arrived in the evening to stay at an airport hotel, which was fine, but definitely the least lovely part of the trip. This past time we spent two nights in Paris, and that was much better.

I had done all the classic Paris things when we were there with our kids. We saw the Eiffel Tower, went though the Louvre, climbed to the top of the I had done all the classic Paris things when we were there with our kids. We saw the Eiffel Tower, went though the Louvre, climbed to the top of the Arc se Triomphe. We had even done things that perhaps were less classic, like Napoleon's tomb and the catacombs. None of that sold me. This time, in addition to spectacular food, which really, you can get almost anywhere in France, it was the city itself. First of all, like my adopted home town, a river runs through it. The majestic River Seine winds its way through the heart of the city and its banks are a proven pathway to explore Paris on foot. The history of Paris is uniquely tied to the river, as it is one of the oldest trade routes navigated through the centuries by migrating tribes, Romans, and Vikings. The bridges themselves are beautiful to behold. Then there is walking about. Paris is actually quite easy to navigate. We can thank the visionary Georges-Eugène Haussmann for this, as it was his responsibility to reorganize and renovate the city; a huge task that started in 1853 and ended in 1870. Because of his ordered grand scheme, there are twenty arrondissements and you can always tell which one you’re in because most street signs clearly indicate the number. Public transit is a breeze, and overall, while I am not going to spend much time here, I would do the same next trip, a pause in the city of light before heading home.

La Ribaudière, Bourg Charente, Cognac, France.

Our late spring trip to France featured a number of restaurants that have a Michelin star and this was one of them--it was my husband's favorite meal of the trip. The , chefs Thierry and Julien Verrat (father and son) create fine cuisine where invention goes hand in hand with La Ribaudière’s natural surroundings. The owner of a vineyard and a truffle field, Verrat is passionate about the Charentais region, which is a real land of plenty. Here, he creates dishes that bring out the best of his excellent ingredients with delicacy and conviction, using the full panoply of local produce, ranging from Cognac and Pineau des Charentes to wild snails and fish from the nearby Atlantic.

Practically by default it has become the go-to place for VIPs that are in the area visiting the Cognac houses. La Ribaudière encompasses a main dining room, terrace, private salon and a bar that offers its own menu of reasonably priced bistro dishes at lunch. The outdoor seating, and the tables near the floor-to-ceiling windows, present views of the pastoral countryside and the Charente River, which was a bathing spot of the beloved King Francois I. Inside, touches of whimsy are added to the mostly white décor via colorful glassware and a chime decoration made from kitchen utensils.

Then there was the food. It was explosively flavorful and also thematic. My spouse's favorite course was the duck course, which featured a smoked duck egg custard, a duck neck stuffed with fois gras, cured duck, dried duck and so on. As we neared the end we got one of our favorites, the cheese selection, and of course we had cognac. When we return we will have to do some additional tasting of that and then bring some home to share.

Les Lapidiales de Port d'Envaux, France

Here’s a cool thing—since we were already going to Saintes, Joel looked in the France Rough Guide for other things in the area and found this sculpture site, which is open 24/7 and no fee. It is an old limestone quarry that has dozens of sculptures over a very walkable site with loads of parking. I was reading recently that with the advent of lots of free content on the internet it was thought that the age of the guidebook was over, and maybe it is for some, but not so for me. I get them electronically now (the search funtion has really improved, and I have stopped carrying any sort of paper when I travel to lighten my load) but I love them, and spend a lot of time with them before we go, planning out the trip locations to visit.

Here is what they have to say for themselves: The white limestone cliff walls and underground chambers where the rock was once quarried are covered in sculptures in styles ranging from abstract to figurative. For twelve years, the Lapidiales site has offered a unique residency to contemporary sculptors of all nationalities who come to carve new works into the stone. The artists are free to build fantastic stone sculptures with a view to giving future generations a work from which to be inspired, creating a perpetually growing art space. The project was started by actor, director, designer, and sculptor Alain Tenenbaum who still oversees the space. The open air art quarry is free and open year round just waiting for visitors to come and find their own. It is truly spectacular!

Saintes, France

Saintes was originally a prosperous settlement in the area of the Santones, a Gallic tribe, and the town became the chief centre of the district later known as the Saintonge. After the Roman conquest it became known as Mediolanum Santonum and was the capital of the Roman Empire in Gaul. The town’s most noteworthy Roman remains are a ruined 1st-century amphitheatre and an arch that had been transferred from a Roman bridge, known as the Arch of Germanicus.

Germanicus is my favorite post-Caesar Roman Emperor until Trajan. The details of his career are known from the Annals of the Roman historian Tacitus, who portrayed him as a champion of republican principles and played him off in his historical chronicles against Tiberius, whom he depicted as an autocratic villain. Through his mother, Antonia, Germanicus was grandnephew of the emperor Augustus and his father was Tiberius’s brother. He was wildly popular--a Quaestor at the age of 21, Germanicus served under Tiberius in Illyricum (7–9 CE) and then on the Rhine (11 CE). As consul in the year 12, he was appointed to command Gaul and the two Rhine armies. His personal popularity enabled him to quell the mutiny that broke out in his legions after Augustus’s death (14). Although pressed to claim the empire for himself, Germanicus remained firmly loyal to Tiberius. In three successive campaigns (14–16), he crossed the Rhine to engage the German tribes, inflicting several defeats in an ultimately inconclusive struggle. Finally, having aroused the jealousy and fears of Tiberius, he was recalled to Rome. Later he met his death, like many related to Tiberius, by poisoning. I spent 4 years shadowing a Classics major which furthered a love of seeing ancient ruins wherever they are. So we swooped in—we came, we saw, we left.